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Portable Generator Question
Posted on 5/25/24 at 1:31 pm
Posted on 5/25/24 at 1:31 pm
I have a champion Natural Gas - starting 8750W Running 7000W. 30 AMP. I was planning to run portable ACs, along with the rest of the house. I am wondering if I have the capacity to run the AC unit with a soft start. I have a 4 ton Lennox. Specs of unit in photo. My water heater and oven/stove is gas. Dryer is electric. I’d assume I can’t run dryer if AC unit is running with this set up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. TIA.
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Posted on 5/25/24 at 1:47 pm to LSUTiger23
quote:
planning to run portable AC
dont do this
Posted on 5/25/24 at 1:49 pm to Turnblad85
By portable AC, I mean one of the Window unit types that just roll around and you vent out the window. I’ve done it multiple times already. I am curious if I could just run my central AC with a soft start.
Posted on 5/25/24 at 2:17 pm to LSUTiger23
I run my 4T central AC with Soft Start on a similar generator.
So I think the answer is “maybe”. Worth a shot, but it’s gonna be close upon startup. Running it should be fine.
So I think the answer is “maybe”. Worth a shot, but it’s gonna be close upon startup. Running it should be fine.
Posted on 5/25/24 at 5:09 pm to LSUTiger23
quote:
By portable AC, I mean one of the Window unit types that just roll around and you vent out the window.
Thats what I'm talking about. (single hose) Extremely inefficient and it will lower the temp of the room it is in, but your whole house will suffer and main ac will work much harder for that single room gain.
Single hose units exhaust tremendous amounts of interior air to the outside. This lost air has to be replaced and its done so by sucking air from every crack/gap/hole leading to the exterior that it find....including the attic that could be 130-150* air.
If you run one, go outside and stand in front of the hose blowing out, then realize that exact same amount of air is entering your home to replace the exiting air you are feeling. Its deceiving because when people put their hand in front the vent on the inside it feels nice and cool so they assume its working just fine.
Small window units are king for this situation. They use exterior air to cool the condenser. Single hose portables use interior air to cool the condenser.
Posted on 5/25/24 at 6:28 pm to LSUTiger23
Someone on this board referred me to a Facebook Group which is devoted to portable generators and questions such as yours. The group is called "Generators: portable generators to power entire house" and very helpful! 

Posted on 5/25/24 at 7:51 pm to LSUTiger23
I have the predator 8750/7000 inverter and ran my whole house (2800sq ft) and a 2.5 ton Lennox with NO soft start kit with no problem. Generator didn’t like the ac startup but once running it was fine and I turned the air way down to keep it running. Hopefully will be better with the soft start installed. My water heaters and cooktop are gas.
Posted on 5/25/24 at 10:32 pm to LSUTiger23
If going by the nameplate pictured, you'll pull around 21A with the compressor and fan running which translates to a little above 5000W. So that's about 72% loaded on your generator but still should run fine.
If you run a Micro Air soft starter, you can expect to reduce the locked-rotor amps by about 65-75%. So if you take the LRA on that nameplate at 99A and reduce by worst-case 65%, that leaves 34.7A. That would be 8316W starting, which is below the 8750W starting rating you listed for the generator.
Note that the 30A breaker being fed by the generator is likely not fully-rated, meaning it will only handle about 80% of the rating before the thermal portion of the breaker will start a time-delayed trip. 80% of 30A is 24A, so if you're running the HVAC you will be very close to the limit. I definitely wouldn't run the clothes dryer or any other 120V appliance that uses electricity to generate heat, like a hair dryer. As for electronics and lights (assuming they're LED), you should be fine running those.
So in summary, yes it can run your central air but it's near the edge of the limit of the 30A breaker so you'll need to be selective on what you operate.
If you run a Micro Air soft starter, you can expect to reduce the locked-rotor amps by about 65-75%. So if you take the LRA on that nameplate at 99A and reduce by worst-case 65%, that leaves 34.7A. That would be 8316W starting, which is below the 8750W starting rating you listed for the generator.
Note that the 30A breaker being fed by the generator is likely not fully-rated, meaning it will only handle about 80% of the rating before the thermal portion of the breaker will start a time-delayed trip. 80% of 30A is 24A, so if you're running the HVAC you will be very close to the limit. I definitely wouldn't run the clothes dryer or any other 120V appliance that uses electricity to generate heat, like a hair dryer. As for electronics and lights (assuming they're LED), you should be fine running those.
So in summary, yes it can run your central air but it's near the edge of the limit of the 30A breaker so you'll need to be selective on what you operate.
This post was edited on 5/25/24 at 10:38 pm
Posted on 5/26/24 at 8:52 am to bapple
Really appreciate this bapple. I have my electrician coming today to see what we need to do to upgrade me to a 50 AMP. I am more than likely going to sell the generator I have and get one of the duromax and Westinghouse tri fuels that have more capacity so that I’m not taxing the generator.
Posted on 5/26/24 at 10:56 am to LSUTiger23
quote:
Really appreciate this bapple. I have my electrician coming today to see what we need to do to upgrade me to a 50 AMP.

Smart choice. A fellow poster was able to run a 5 ton unit with a 10kW portable so if you step up to that size range and add a soft starter to your compressor you should be good to go. Let us know how it works out.
Posted on 5/26/24 at 11:32 am to bapple
Great info, bapple! I was hoping someone would take the time to lay it all out that way.
Posted on 5/26/24 at 11:44 am to LSUTiger23
OP. please return to this thread later and tell us how that 10,000 watt Champion tri-fuel unit performs and lasts.
We spent about as much for a little 2200-watt, gasoline-only Honda portable generator (made in Thailand) as you paid for that much larger tri-fuel unit that's made in China.
Would be interested to know if that higher Honda price tag was worth it.
We spent about as much for a little 2200-watt, gasoline-only Honda portable generator (made in Thailand) as you paid for that much larger tri-fuel unit that's made in China.
Would be interested to know if that higher Honda price tag was worth it.
Posted on 5/26/24 at 12:14 pm to WB Davis
quote:
We spent about as much for a little 2200-watt, gasoline-only Honda portable generator (made in Thailand) as you paid for that much larger tri-fuel unit that's made in China
Davis, your Honda generator is likely an inverter generator, which uses far less fuel than one that is non-inverter…and that is a huge deal when you are dealing with a hurricane, etc.
Posted on 5/26/24 at 1:47 pm to Spankum
quote:
Great info, bapple! I was hoping someone would take the time to lay it all out that way.

quote:
Davis, your Honda generator is likely an inverter generator, which uses far less fuel than one that is non-inverter…and that is a huge deal when you are dealing with a hurricane, etc.
Correct. An inverter generator does not drive the alternator at a constant RPM. Standard generators rotate at 1800RPM or 3600RPM and maintain that speed no matter the load to have 60Hz output. You may hear a slight blip when the generator takes on more load but it will increase the amount of fuel going into the motor to maintain that RPM. This is why a home standby generator has basically the same sound no matter the load on it, since it is holding a specific RPM to maintain 60Hz output. This article explains the difference in simple terms.
LINK
This post was edited on 5/26/24 at 1:48 pm
Posted on 5/27/24 at 7:54 am to LSUTiger23
You have to be selective with loading the generator. I turn off all my breakers except for AC and Air handler. I also turn my air handler fan “on” first (instead of “auto”) so that its not trying to start at the same time as my compressor. Once running knock the air down low so that it wont cycle and come back on without your attention.
If you feel you have enough capacity after its running smooth then go back to breaker panel and introduce selective other loads (freezer, lights, etc.). I would avoid anything with an electric heating element. (Coffee pot, microwave, hair dryer, electric stove, etc).
If you feel you have enough capacity after its running smooth then go back to breaker panel and introduce selective other loads (freezer, lights, etc.). I would avoid anything with an electric heating element. (Coffee pot, microwave, hair dryer, electric stove, etc).
Posted on 5/27/24 at 9:08 am to Zakatak
quote:
You have to be selective with loading the generator. I turn off all my breakers except for AC and Air handler. I also turn my air handler fan “on” first (instead of “auto”) so that its not trying to start at the same time as my compressor. Once running knock the air down low so that it wont cycle and come back on without your attention.
You actually highlight another aspect of the Micro Air soft starter that makes it so good. On startup, it allows the compressor fan and air handler in the home to run for about 5 seconds before it turns the compressor on. The design is exactly as you describe it - to avoid the inrush current of all 3 happening simultaneously.
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