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P trap help - how would you repair?
Posted on 3/19/24 at 5:09 pm
Posted on 3/19/24 at 5:09 pm
So I have an issue with this p trap in our island sink. It was leaking, don’t know for how long. But I went to plumbing supply store and got the replacement parts A & C (they came together). A & B in the photo below are glued together so I didn’t use A from the new piece just C. A was the part that has a gouge in it that was causing the leak so thought I’d be good to go. Now the threaded piece of A marked as X did not cinch all the way up when I screwed it on. I even took the disposal off so I could allow it to pivot as needed to get a good connection with the threads. Put the disposal back on and ran the water. It leaks at X. Not much but any amount is not acceptable. What would you do here. If I need to replace A/B, I’ll haveto get a plumber out because I don’t feel comfortable cutting it out, etc. I’m trying not to go that route as I just replaced a fridge and dishwasher, have to get a tree cut down before it falls on my house, get my termite contract renewed and a few other things. So trying to save money where I can. Is this a DIY repair? Can I just wrap the whole damn thing in some kind of permanent waterproof wrapping?
14
Posted on 3/19/24 at 5:35 pm to VanRIch
Did you tighten by hand or with a big pair of pliers?
Posted on 3/19/24 at 5:51 pm to JusTrollin
Hand, but the new one cinches all the way up with just hand tightening which is why I think there is an issue with the threads in the old part
This post was edited on 3/19/24 at 5:52 pm
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:27 pm to VanRIch
Holy crap you have a lot of connections. WOW.
My advice. Get a plumber there and cut that monstrosity out and have done right.
My advice. Get a plumber there and cut that monstrosity out and have done right.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:29 pm to chrome1007
Yeah and there’s probably 6 more connections non less than 3’ of piping. They just used bits and pieces to put this sink together. The big sink is done right.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:30 pm to VanRIch
Silicone the threads
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:31 pm to VanRIch
Is it possible the threads may be seating at X before a seal can be made at the joint? Was there a washer/gasket with A that fits into the coupling?
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:46 pm to Macfly
It’s the same amount of threads on the new and old part. New part seats all the way up. Old part still has two threads showing. No washer gasket.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:51 pm to VanRIch
Whoa! That’s a different set up. Are you sure you didn’t cross thread X when you put on A? Make sure the threads are the same on A and the X nut. Once I fought something until I realized there were two different thread sizes.
1.) I’d try putting a bunch of Teflon and pipe dope on the threads of A and and try tightening X again.
If that doesn’t work…
2.) Go ahead and prime and glue A and X. Thread it up as much as it will go and let the glue set for a couple hours and see. I realize you’ll never be able to take the P-Trap off again, but it’ll fix it. If that bothers you go to 3.
3.) Cut out the 2” tee and replace with a 2” by 1 1/2” tee, short piece of 1 1/2” pipe, 1 1/2” trap adapter, and normal SJ 1 1/2” p trap and tailpiece to the sink.
1.) I’d try putting a bunch of Teflon and pipe dope on the threads of A and and try tightening X again.
If that doesn’t work…
2.) Go ahead and prime and glue A and X. Thread it up as much as it will go and let the glue set for a couple hours and see. I realize you’ll never be able to take the P-Trap off again, but it’ll fix it. If that bothers you go to 3.
3.) Cut out the 2” tee and replace with a 2” by 1 1/2” tee, short piece of 1 1/2” pipe, 1 1/2” trap adapter, and normal SJ 1 1/2” p trap and tailpiece to the sink.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 7:22 pm to sledgehammer
Yeah threads are the same. Took the old p trap to the plumbing supply store and they confirmed. I was very careful threading the new piece on to no cross thread it. If I felt resistance, I’d back it off and wiggle it a bit while turning. It went fine until the final two threads and then felt like the threads were messed up. Not smooth at all. I feel like just gluing it up. Yeah I’ll have to cut it out if I ever need to replace/repair anything but I’d have to do that now if I went with option 3.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 7:29 pm to VanRIch
Good deal. Don’t skimp out with the application of glue. Put plenty and good luck.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 7:35 pm to sledgehammer
Thanks man. Appreciate the help everyone
Posted on 3/19/24 at 9:22 pm to VanRIch
Im a big fan of fixing it right if Part A has a gouge, and you can DIY. Part A needs to match Part C thats why they sell them together.
To DIY, you can cut the pipe Part B and use a socket saver / fitting saver to drill out the portion of Part B sticking/glued into the wye/tee fitting. I recently had a plumber do this exact repair. New Part B could be glued in, then new Part A. The socket saver makes a mess so my plumber had a helper hold shop vac while he drilled.
To DIY, you can cut the pipe Part B and use a socket saver / fitting saver to drill out the portion of Part B sticking/glued into the wye/tee fitting. I recently had a plumber do this exact repair. New Part B could be glued in, then new Part A. The socket saver makes a mess so my plumber had a helper hold shop vac while he drilled.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 9:27 pm to VanRIch
Did you loosen the nut at the bottom of the sink tailpiece? Part C may slide up allowing the connection at x to be tightened. If you didn’t try that, take it apart at x and at the sink tailpiece. Cut off a little of the tailpiece and put it back together and tighten it good at x.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 10:39 pm to VanRIch
quote:
I don’t feel comfortable cutting it out,
well that is where you are at because there is something wrong with the threads on the old one not sealing on the new
but you dont need a 2" p-trap, you need a 1 1/2" p-trap.
home depot and lowes make full p-trap kits with everything you need to connect from the sink down tube to the p-trap and drain line connection
but you will need to remove part A, that 90 from the piece of pipe. but you cut it right up against the edge of the 90 and that leaves you about 3/4" to glue a connection on it with the crush rings so its all easy to take apart again
its all super easy to do and you dont even need any skill, just the patience to cut the pipe and glue on one fitting and the rest is all slip together and hand tighten the rings and its all done
here are the p-trap kits LINK
the reducer to glue onto part B LINK
and the coupling that you glue onto that reducer LINK
and if you need to extend the down tube from the sink to be longer, just use this LINK
This post was edited on 3/19/24 at 11:00 pm
Posted on 3/20/24 at 5:27 am to VanRIch
Yeah I’d tighten down on that with a big arse pair of pliers first and see if you can get the compression fitting to fully seat.
Posted on 3/20/24 at 5:46 am to keakar
So I don’t need 2” because there’s a disposal? 1 1/2” will still work?
Posted on 3/20/24 at 7:48 am to VanRIch
The top left is a slip OP, it moves up and down with a washer. Yes you could cut it all out from where B hits A and go 1.5” that whole way with an adjustable p trap kit. That’s the way 95%+ of homes are done.
Work your way from B back to the sink making sure everything is solid. Then make the final adjustment at the part above C.
PS- you already have 1.5” drop from the sink so going wider after that is pointless as that’s your bottleneck anyway.
Work your way from B back to the sink making sure everything is solid. Then make the final adjustment at the part above C.
PS- you already have 1.5” drop from the sink so going wider after that is pointless as that’s your bottleneck anyway.
This post was edited on 3/20/24 at 7:49 am
Posted on 3/20/24 at 7:56 am to baldona
Also make 100% sure you know where your leak is. With those supplies above the leak it could be a supply leaking onto the pipe and throwing you off, I’ve seen that many times.
ETA: also, try some thread tape. It should stop the leak for you it tightens the threads better it should prevent you from being able to tighten them all down.
ETA: also, try some thread tape. It should stop the leak for you it tightens the threads better it should prevent you from being able to tighten them all down.
This post was edited on 3/20/24 at 7:58 am
Posted on 3/20/24 at 8:20 am to baldona
It also could be some missing washers like these:
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