re: P trap help - how would you repair?

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This is a prep sink on our island. No dishwasher

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ok yes, 1 1/2 for everything, no matter what it has

i got dishwasher or disposal mixed up in my head


just be sure to turn off the water lines under the sink so no one turns water on while you are under there working. and yes women and girls will do that never thinking where the water will go lol

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Is there or should there be a gasket at A-X-C?

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no he used different parts of different p-traps and the threads and connections are different, so they dont seal, thats his issue

I honestly think he just needs thread tape. I can’t tell exactly what sort of pipe and threads he has, but he said it screws all the way and still leaks. Which likely will be solved with thread tape or pipe dope. Keep the rest as is.

He is basically trying to make a water tight seal without tape, glue, dope, or anything and some threads that likely were as you said from different kits and not designed to screw together.

I still stand by my post, the 90 needs to be replaced. I disagree with keaker in that I dont think there is enough pipe "B" to save and connect. Itd be fitting to fitting which I hate. Removing pipe "B" with a socket saver is simple.

Also, yes 1 1/2" even is only needed, but the original layout is 2" and its easy enough to match and replace with 2".

This is literally your exact scenario using the more expensive (Reed) socket saver, but its same principle with cheaper one:
Youtube Video LINK

Tighten it up maybe use a little lube on the threads

The OG plumber that installed this is who fricked you from the jump. Normally in houses the only thing that needs a 2" drain is a washing machine. If I was coming fix this at your house...I'm either

A.) Cutting out that Tee and replacing it with a 2x1-1/2" tee or
B.) Using a socket saver to remove pipe "B" out of the tee, and glueing a 2x1-1/2" bushing into the tee. You can see the bushing glued in to the top of fitting "C" currently

The fitting that is glued above C is called a trap adapter....it adapts from glue style to SJ (slip joint) to allow you to intall a slip joint trap. It has totally missed its purpose by being before the trap.

The trap adapter would be glued into the Tee where pipe "B" is currently, and all connections after that would be made leak free with hand tight + 1/4 turn.

Plumbing is easy to do but tricky to do right. This would be year 1 apprentice work at our shop. Defintiely do not just wrap it as that will not stop the leak and will encourage mold growth in the warm, still and dark of your cabinet space.

That'll be $175

I'll give them props for properly venting your island (chicago/loop vent) and not just throwing a studor vent under there.

If you want to avoid cutting in a tee or using the socket saver there is another option if you have the space.

For the record, nickel and dime repair (teflon/pipe dope) may also stop the leak but my brain doesn't work that way towards plumbing like it might towards trades I'm not as well versed in, and it wouldn't be considered a fix, just a bandaid.

The other option would be to cut out your recently installed p-trap as close to "A" as possible (give yourself some work space by unhooking the disposal). Leave as much of pipe "B" intact as you can. A 2" fitting needs a maximum of 3/4" for full insertion. If pipe "B" is 3/4" or more (a hair under that is fine too) glue a 2" coupling onto pipe "B". Glue a 2x1-1/2 bushing into the coupling. Glue an 1-1/2" male trap adapter into the coupling/bushing. Buy a $6 SJ P-trap from any hardware store and an 1-1/2" extension tailpiece to be sure you don't have to go back.

In a perfect world, all glue joints are behind a wall. Hope this helps. Tight spaces are never fun

Here’s another view with everything disassembled, in case clarification is needed. Thanks so much for your help
A & B are original and glued together.
C & D are new parts that came together. Can’t use D.

This look right?
2” Coupling
2-1 1/2 bushing
1 1/2 trap adapter
P trap
Extension