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Started By
Message
re: My garage freezer keeps freezing up
Posted on 6/25/26 at 6:04 pm to LanierSpots
Posted on 6/25/26 at 6:04 pm to LanierSpots
Defrost failure 100%
You can use a hair dryer. The part you are looking for will look like a small cylinder with two wires going to it attached to your evaporator near where the copper attaches to the aluminum.
If it looks popped open it's bad. But you really should test it for continuity or test the power to the heater with 115v ac if it don't have a continuity meter.
This is a common failure and the hardest part is removing the ice.
You can use a hair dryer. The part you are looking for will look like a small cylinder with two wires going to it attached to your evaporator near where the copper attaches to the aluminum.
If it looks popped open it's bad. But you really should test it for continuity or test the power to the heater with 115v ac if it don't have a continuity meter.
This is a common failure and the hardest part is removing the ice.
1
Posted on 6/25/26 at 6:07 pm to LanierSpots
If it's iced over it's never ever ever a compressor failure or system leak. Those present themselves as ice on only the inlet of the evaporator and no frost on coils.
If your coils are frosted over your sealed system is fine. Your problem is electrical.
Thermal fuse/bimetal/ defrost thermostat(gas a lot of names)
Timer or Adaptive defrost board
Heater.
It can only be one of those.
If your coils are frosted over your sealed system is fine. Your problem is electrical.
Thermal fuse/bimetal/ defrost thermostat(gas a lot of names)
Timer or Adaptive defrost board
Heater.
It can only be one of those.
Posted on 6/25/26 at 6:15 pm to LanierSpots
I had one with coil inside that was freezing up just like yours, changed the $20 defrost timer and $20 fan that blows across coils, it’s been working like a new one for 4 years now, it’s at least 25 years old.
Posted on 6/25/26 at 6:18 pm to Napoleon
quote:
If it's iced over it's never ever ever a compressor failure or system leak. Those present themselves as ice on only the inlet of the evaporator and no frost on coils.
If your coils are frosted over your sealed system is fine. Your problem is electrical.
Thermal fuse/bimetal/ defrost thermostat(gas a lot of names)
Timer or Adaptive defrost board
Heater.
Thanks man. IM going to pull it out tomorrow after my charter and see if I can find the timer and see if I can make it manually defrost. I dont have the digital controls. Just a good old fashion knob to turn.
Thanks so much. I will let you guys know if I find anything.
Posted on 6/25/26 at 7:05 pm to LanierSpots
Turn the knob on the timer slowly until it clicks. That's when it's in defrost.
Posted on 6/25/26 at 7:09 pm to Napoleon
quote:
Turn the knob on the timer slowly until it clicks. That's when it's in defrost.
I guess if the heater comes on and works, that will mean the timer is bad?
Posted on 6/25/26 at 7:39 pm to LanierSpots
Yes. If heater comes in(assuming bimetal is below 30° ) the timer is bad.
Posted on 6/27/26 at 7:50 am to Napoleon
Napoleon, here are a few pictures of my set up. I did not see anything behind there that looked like a timer or had any kind of knob to turn. LOL. Could the timer be on the inside?
Also a better one of the inside.
That black fan inside is not running right now but is not frozen up or anything. I can turn it with my finger. Yesterday when I checked it for ice, it was turning and sounded fine. I assume something is turning the inside fan off and ON?
The copper wire at the bottom of the coil inside is warm to the touch. I assume that is directly connected to the compressor?
That black box to the left of the compressor is just a cover for the AC connections. It pulled out easily and I can see where the wires just terminate in there.
Also a better one of the inside.
That black fan inside is not running right now but is not frozen up or anything. I can turn it with my finger. Yesterday when I checked it for ice, it was turning and sounded fine. I assume something is turning the inside fan off and ON?
The copper wire at the bottom of the coil inside is warm to the touch. I assume that is directly connected to the compressor?
That black box to the left of the compressor is just a cover for the AC connections. It pulled out easily and I can see where the wires just terminate in there.
This post was edited on 6/27/26 at 7:51 am
Posted on 6/27/26 at 8:27 am to LanierSpots
Probably in the box that holds the thermostat adjustment in the top of the fridge.
Google the model number and defrost timer replacement
Google the model number and defrost timer replacement
Posted on 6/27/26 at 10:56 am to bbvdd
quote:
Probably in the box that holds the thermostat adjustment in the top of the fridge.
See that panel I removed at the bottom? I swung it around to the left side and it has foil on the back of it. It has the manual knob to adjust the temp. You can see the small wire connecting it.. Nothing else in there
This post was edited on 6/27/26 at 10:57 am
Posted on 6/27/26 at 1:26 pm to LanierSpots
quote:
I did not see anything behind there that looked like a timer or had any kind of knob to turn. LOL. Could the timer be on the inside?
Your model doesn't have an old school defrost timer. The automatic defrost system is controlled by an electronic main control board rather than a traditional mechanical defrost timer. The freezer's main board regularly triggers a defrost cycle to melt frost buildup off the evaporator coils.
I would test the defrost heating element first. It's beneath the coil in this pic you posted and looks like this.
Unplug the freezer and disconnect the heater's wire leads.Using a multimeter set to resistance (ohms), test the circuit across the heater. A healthy heater typically reads between 35 and 12,000 ohms depending on the exact design.If the reading is open (infinity) or heavily outside these ranges, the heater is burned out and requires replacement.
If heater tests good test the thermostat
Test the Defrost Thermostat (Bimetal)The defrost thermostat monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. It must be frozen (below roughly 32° F) to close its contacts and allow power to go to the heater. With the coils cold, test the bimetal thermostat for continuity using a multimeter. If it does not show continuity when cold, it is faulty and needs to be replaced.
If both the thermostat and the defrost heater test good, The main control board is likely failing to send the signal to start the defrost cycle.
Posted on 6/27/26 at 7:12 pm to Napoleon
You ever thought about making a YouTube repair channel?
Posted on 6/27/26 at 8:06 pm to weadjust
(no message)
This post was edited on 6/27/26 at 8:07 pm
Posted on 6/27/26 at 11:46 pm to LanierSpots
There is air getting in somewhere. It’s the humidity freezing.
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