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Posted on 8/15/26 at 4:31 pm to LanierSpots
Desperate times call for desperate measures
It would have gone a lot easier had I done it before I planted everything. I dropped a pole on my Texas star but otherwise no other casualties.
I bet it’s at least 10 degrees cooler under there, maybe more
It would have gone a lot easier had I done it before I planted everything. I dropped a pole on my Texas star but otherwise no other casualties.
I bet it’s at least 10 degrees cooler under there, maybe more
Posted on 8/15/26 at 5:29 pm to cgrand
Understand I do not know tropical fruit trees. Are those banana trees?
Posted on 8/15/26 at 6:01 pm to LanierSpots
they are bananas under the shade cloth. Lots of other stuff in there too. It’s an excellent spot for them as it’s good dirt and stays wet during normal weather but we’ve gotten no rain in a month and it’s been high 90s every day. They were suffering
Posted on 8/15/26 at 6:24 pm to cgrand
Love it. They are gonna love that shade. The heat is unreal right now.
This post was edited on 8/16/26 at 4:28 am
Posted on 8/15/26 at 10:45 pm to Tigerlaff
I hope they do cause I damn near got heatstroke building it
. Motherfrick it’s just brutal mid day right now
I must be getting old
I must be getting old
Posted on 8/16/26 at 6:40 pm to cgrand
Starfruit is putting out vertical branches after the pruning. Tied up the branch i didnt cut back.
Cgrand thats the beautyberry you gave me to the left of it. It is going to take over that bed.
I might get some fruit off of it before it gets put in the greenhouse.
Cgrand thats the beautyberry you gave me to the left of it. It is going to take over that bed.
I might get some fruit off of it before it gets put in the greenhouse.
Posted on 8/17/26 at 4:52 am to Loup
quote:
Starfruit is putting out vertical branches after the pruning. Tied up the branch i didnt cut back.
Well done! That's looking great. Never ever hesitate to prune a starfruit. I would also cut that long tied one to keep it symmetrical. I've actually been thinking about planting one in the ground in a protected location. They will fruit in full shade and they are so vigorous that they can completely regenerate from a freeze in one season. As long as I protect the graft, I think I could get away with having one planted right up against the south brick wall of my house under a large magnolia canopy.
quote:
might get some fruit off of it before it gets put in the greenhouse.
Yes, that is large enough to hold fruit. You will likely harvest while the tree is in the greenhouse. Mine was about that size last year and I got plenty of fruit. It will start flowering heavily in the next few weeks when this heatwave finally breaks.
Posted on 8/17/26 at 6:05 am to Tigerlaff
quote:
I would also cut that long tied one to keep it symmetrical.
Will do, it's getting to where it'll touch the greenhouse roof if I keep letting it go.
quote:
They will fruit in full shade and they are so vigorous that they can completely regenerate from a freeze in one season
Didn't realize that. Shade is something that I have a lot of. The only problem is starfruit is highly toxic to dogs so it has to be in the front yard when it is fruiting. I have been thinking of putting my cattley guava in the ground as landscaping it and tenting it for the winter.
Posted on 8/17/26 at 7:34 am to Loup
quote:
I have been thinking of putting my cattley guava in the ground as landscaping it and tenting it for the winter.
If you have to choose between the two, the cattley guava will be much tougher. I would definitely protect with a heat source for the first 3-4 years to get the roots established. Mine is doing great in the ground but something ate all the fruit. Had to net my potted one too.
If you're looking at a landscaping tree also check out cherry of the Rio Grande (Eugenia involucrata). Even more cold hardy than cattley guava.
This post was edited on 8/17/26 at 7:35 am
Posted on 8/17/26 at 7:56 am to Tigerlaff
quote:
If you have to choose between the two, the cattley guava will be much tougher. I would definitely protect with a heat source for the first 3-4 years to get the roots established.
One side of my house is pretty well protected from the wind and stays sunny. The st aug never goes dormant. It'd probably be perfect for the guava.
quote:
Mine is doing great in the ground but something ate all the fruit. Had to net my potted one too.
Those look awesome! I have mine staked up but it's fighting me, it wants to be a bush more than a tree.
Posted on 8/17/26 at 10:36 am to Loup
quote:
Those look awesome! I have mine staked up but it's fighting me, it wants to be a bush more than a tree.
Yeah the cattley guavas have the weirdest growth habits. The red/strawberry kind grows into a very attractive and tidy tree. The yellow/lemon kind is this unruly lanky bush thing that eventually becomes this in the absence of freezing weather:
I trim mine a lot since they are super vigorous and only bloom on new growth.
Posted on 8/17/26 at 6:51 pm to Tigerlaff
Alright we are now going into day 238 of 110F+ heat index, humidity above 70%, and no rain. Also hit 18F this winter and 10F the year before. I can now make some pretty qualified statements about what fruit trees are 9a tough and which are not. This is not a zone pusher post. This is for those who want to set it and forget it. Luckily the list is short:
2nd runner up: kumquat. Not as cold hardy as a fig, but close enough for 9a. Very few disease or pest problems for a citrus. Many pests don't like the leaves. Takes full sun and heat no problem. Hardy to about 16-17F. Leaves that don't scorch, fruit that takes freezes better, and lack of fire blight issues pushes kumquat above loquat despite the better cold tolerance of loquat.
Runner up: figs. Still can get sunburn, rust, and winter die back in the coldest years. But the weather here isn't killing it. It will come back reliably and fruit. Tough but shows signs of stress and damage. Easy to graft, air layer, and root from cuttings so they can almost always be cloned and saved.
Winner: feijoa AKA pineapple guava. These trees have that DOG in 'em. Absolutely zero stress response to triple digit heat, 10F cold, drought, no pests, no disease. Only drawback is poor to non-existent self pollination for nearly all varieties. The varieties Coolidge and Unique are self fertile but will set much better and larger fruit with cross pollination. Beautiful evergreen foliage and flowers make it a true ornamental. I cannot think of anything that has proven tougher here than feijoa.
Would love to hear from anyone with mulberry or jujube experience to see how they stack up.
2nd runner up: kumquat. Not as cold hardy as a fig, but close enough for 9a. Very few disease or pest problems for a citrus. Many pests don't like the leaves. Takes full sun and heat no problem. Hardy to about 16-17F. Leaves that don't scorch, fruit that takes freezes better, and lack of fire blight issues pushes kumquat above loquat despite the better cold tolerance of loquat.
Runner up: figs. Still can get sunburn, rust, and winter die back in the coldest years. But the weather here isn't killing it. It will come back reliably and fruit. Tough but shows signs of stress and damage. Easy to graft, air layer, and root from cuttings so they can almost always be cloned and saved.
Winner: feijoa AKA pineapple guava. These trees have that DOG in 'em. Absolutely zero stress response to triple digit heat, 10F cold, drought, no pests, no disease. Only drawback is poor to non-existent self pollination for nearly all varieties. The varieties Coolidge and Unique are self fertile but will set much better and larger fruit with cross pollination. Beautiful evergreen foliage and flowers make it a true ornamental. I cannot think of anything that has proven tougher here than feijoa.
Would love to hear from anyone with mulberry or jujube experience to see how they stack up.
This post was edited on 8/17/26 at 6:54 pm
Posted on 8/17/26 at 7:34 pm to Tigerlaff
quote:yeah my figs are suffering but they'll bounce back. the big tree has dropped about 2/3 of its leaves and looks like it wants to go dormant. i've not watered any of them it would take days of constant water to catch up
Runner up: figs. Still can get sunburn, rust, and winter die back in the coldest years. But the weather here isn't killing it. It will come back reliably and fruit. Tough but shows signs of stress and damage.
ive got two feijoa they are unfazed. not really growing but not dying either
Posted on 8/18/26 at 10:16 am to Tigerlaff
Do you ever order feijoa from a farm? Just looking for recommendations.
Posted on 8/18/26 at 11:06 am to Houstiger
quote:
Do you ever order feijoa from a farm? Just looking for recommendations.
I'm assuming you mean the fruit. I've only seen it for sale once in a very niche Facebook group. I did not buy it. Only ones I have ever eaten are from my trees or someone I know. Growing it really seems to be the only way to get it.
If you do decide to grow it, do your research first. Get some of the select cultivars from New Zealand. They far surpass the quality from the seedling trees found in nurseries here.
Posted on 8/18/26 at 3:57 pm to Tigerlaff
Have had a few gauvas just fall off recently. Brought them inside to ripen fully, another 4-6 days. I must say pretty dang good! Not as sweet as late season fruit, but I thinned them to one per branch and think that’s helped considerably!
See the 2nd round of blooms are about to open, hopefully they set in this heat yikes
See the 2nd round of blooms are about to open, hopefully they set in this heat yikes
Posted on 8/18/26 at 8:46 pm to DickTater
quote:
Have had a few gauvas just fall off recently. Brought them inside to ripen fully, another 4-6 days. I must say pretty dang good! Not as sweet as late season fruit, but I thinned them to one per branch and think that’s helped considerably!
Awesome! I'm glad to hear this. Show us some pics when you harvest the next ones.
I thinned my ruby supreme the same way this year and I've got about 25-30 fruits left on the tree. What I've noticed after thinning is that all the fruit are symmetrically round and huge. No small ones or off shapes like in years past. Really hoping to see some quality improvement in the early fruits! Would be a game changer.
After a year and a half of care, I FINALLY have a jalisco roja guava ripening properly on the tree. It is much more fragrant than my other guavas. Cannot wait to taste it but I'm leaving it on the tree as long as possible. I'm even rotating the tree to keep it out of this scorching sun.

Posted on 8/19/26 at 8:34 am to Tigerlaff
Okay have a question in regards to trimming my Pickering. The tree has never wanted to really grow super upright, I get it’s a dwarf in a pot. Tried tying it up in spots for over a year, never really lignified. So I said the hell with it and let it do its thing. The 3 main scaffold branches are spaced evenly, and branch at about 16” above root flare, but immediately droop down towards the ground..new growth has drug it down further. Now it has eventually gone back up right somewhat. Curious what the thoughts are if I should just let it be and do its thing, eventually it will get going up, or if I should head back to a larger branch and start over, which I don’t want to do, but may be best :( ?
I just worry about fruit load down the road, but maybe it’s stronger this way?
Tree is in a 15 gal pot

I just worry about fruit load down the road, but maybe it’s stronger this way?
Tree is in a 15 gal pot

Posted on 8/19/26 at 2:17 pm to DickTater
So here's the problem: this tree was not properly shaped when young. You want your mango tree's first cut to be at hip height, whether that's in the ground or in a pot. They cut this one too low.
Look at where mine had the first cut:
That split is exactly at my waistline and I'm 5'10".
I do see some branches heading up on yours, but they may begin to droop with weight and time. And you correctly identified part of this problem: this is a true dwarf and loves to grow out instead of up.
Hate to say it, but if it were me I would do a total remodel on this one to get some vertically oriented scaffolding branches. And I would do it immediately so it has time to put out new branches before winter. In Florida September 1 is the pruning deadline. It's earlier here. Otherwise you should sacrifice a crop next year and do this prune in spring once we are over 60F at night.
Alternatively, you can stake that baby up and just work with what you have. Plenty of container growers do that. You can always do the big remodel later if desired.
If you decide to give it the big haircut I'll do my best to walk you through it with additional pictures. Will be asking wiltz to join me in that effort too.
Look at where mine had the first cut:
That split is exactly at my waistline and I'm 5'10".
I do see some branches heading up on yours, but they may begin to droop with weight and time. And you correctly identified part of this problem: this is a true dwarf and loves to grow out instead of up.
Hate to say it, but if it were me I would do a total remodel on this one to get some vertically oriented scaffolding branches. And I would do it immediately so it has time to put out new branches before winter. In Florida September 1 is the pruning deadline. It's earlier here. Otherwise you should sacrifice a crop next year and do this prune in spring once we are over 60F at night.
Alternatively, you can stake that baby up and just work with what you have. Plenty of container growers do that. You can always do the big remodel later if desired.
If you decide to give it the big haircut I'll do my best to walk you through it with additional pictures. Will be asking wiltz to join me in that effort too.
This post was edited on 8/19/26 at 2:20 pm

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