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Interpreting Soil sample results

Posted on 4/11/23 at 2:10 pm
Posted by TigeRoots
Member since Oct 2008
8505 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 2:10 pm
Can anyone here help me interpret these results as it pertains to selecting the correct fertilizer? I’m lost here.

Posted by TigeRoots
Member since Oct 2008
8505 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 2:12 pm to
I don't even see where they listed a N content..?
Posted by LEASTBAY
Member since Aug 2007
14265 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 3:13 pm to
Just follow the options at the top
Posted by meeple
Carcassonne
Member since May 2011
9344 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 3:17 pm to
Maybe call the number at the bottom?
Posted by TigeRoots
Member since Oct 2008
8505 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 3:54 pm to
For sure, left them a message. Just curious if I was missing something here.
Posted by RaginCajunz
Member since Mar 2009
5310 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 4:02 pm to
Pretty sure if you go to Cleggs or Site One, any good place with fertilizers, they can help you interpret.
Posted by Sir Saint
1 post
Member since Jun 2010
5322 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 4:43 pm to
Re: nitrogen, all of those measurements amount to 1.5lbs of nitrogen. I’m not a fan of how LSUag presents this info bc it is confusing - all it’s saying is to apply 1.5lbs of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft per year.

Something like a 15-5-10 would be good based on these results. Don’t apply all 1.5lbs of nitrogen at once, split into 2-3 applications spread out during growing season.
Posted by Tifway419
Member since Sep 2022
815 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 4:56 pm to
Your PH is also high. I think centipede likes about 5.5. I’d just try to get it down to 6 if I were you.

You can put down elemental sulphur to lower the PH level. You’ll need about 60-80lbs per 1,000 to lower to 6. I’d split this up between 3-4 applications every 6 months and get a soil test every time.

Mine was similar, Cleggs told me this. Like someone said, I’d bring your results to Cleggs (or your local nursery) and see what they say.
Posted by TigeRoots
Member since Oct 2008
8505 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 5:44 pm to
Right. Will swing by Cleggs soon. Unless the phone call/message yields anything.
Posted by ronk
Member since Jan 2015
6172 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 6:07 pm to
That’s a good recommendation. And I agree, I don’t like how the print the results.

Did they test for nitrogen? Most don’t because of how rapidly grass uses if.
Posted by CrawDude
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2019
5264 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 6:07 pm to
quote:

Sir Saint

quote:

Re: nitrogen, all of those measurements amount to 1.5lbs of nitrogen. I’m not a fan of how LSUag presents this info bc it is confusing - all it’s saying is to apply 1.5lbs of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft per year. Something like a 15-5-10 would be good based on these results. Don’t apply all 1.5lbs of nitrogen at once, split into 2-3 applications spread out during growing season.


Very good post Sir Saint, and spot on with calculations and recommendation.

LSU Ag Center soil analysis reports are geared more to the farming community and not homeowners - they really should improve this, but they largely rely on the county agents to help interpret these reports for homeowners when requested, but then they are stretched thin…..

And unless recommendations have changed centipede fertilization should not exceed 1 lb N per year, split in 2 applications, one application now of 1/2 lb N, and other optional 2nd application in June/July.

N is rarely measured by any soil testing lab b/c being a labile compound the concentration at any single point in time is nearly meaningless to make fertilization recommendations from.

OP you didn’t say where you are located but if anywhere near BR or Mandeville, Site One Landscape Supply sells a Lesco 15-5-15 lawn fertilizer (very good pricing) which would largely meet the requirements as recommended by your soil analysis report. You’d apply 3 1/3 pounds of 15-5-15 per 1000 sq ft of lawn now, and again in 2 to 3 months.

ETA: I see your soil test result says Prairieville. There is a Site One in the Industrialplex off of Siegen Lane/Airline Hwy.
This post was edited on 4/11/23 at 9:52 pm
Posted by LSUPat
Katy
Member since Oct 2004
306 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 6:37 pm to
It is telling you that you need 7.2 lbs of Nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. To figure that out you need the square ft of the area you are fertilizing.
The first number on the fertilizer bag is percent Nitrogen. If you use ammonium sulfate (20.5% N), the math is 0.205 × 40 lbs (weight of the bag) gives you the Nitrogen in the bag (8.2 lbs). If your area is 5000 sq ft, you need 36 lbs about 4 bags spread over the growing season. Ammonium sulfate will help with th pH and sulfur too.
Posted by Sir Saint
1 post
Member since Jun 2010
5322 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 7:08 pm to
quote:

It is telling you that you need 7.2 lbs of Nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft.


Exhibit A on how this info can be easily misinterpreted.
Posted by LSUPat
Katy
Member since Oct 2004
306 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 7:39 pm to
You are correct it says 7.2 lbs of Ammonium sulfate not Nitrogen.
Posted by bkhrph
Lake Charles
Member since May 2022
169 posts
Posted on 4/11/23 at 8:41 pm to
Yes, that pH number explains why calcium is high and sulphur is low. Of those fertilizers mentioned, ammonium sulfate would be optimal. It’ll add sulphur and also lower the pH better than the others.
Posted by TigeRoots
Member since Oct 2008
8505 posts
Posted on 4/12/23 at 3:50 am to
quote:

Of those fertilizers mentioned, ammonium sulfate would be optimal.


Thanks for the replies as always guys. So I should look for a 15-5-15 derived from Ammonium Sulfate? I'll swing by Site One or Cleggs and also report back here what my local Horticulturist says, assuming they call me back.
Posted by TigerTerd
Member since Sep 2010
2659 posts
Posted on 4/12/23 at 8:35 am to
The nitrogen rate is also to be divvied up into split applications. The results should've came with an additional sheet that explains how and when (i.e. 1/3 now, followed by 1/3 in May, and the remaining 1/3 in June)
Posted by CrawDude
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2019
5264 posts
Posted on 4/12/23 at 8:38 pm to
quote:

Thanks for the replies as always guys. So I should look for a 15-5-15 derived from Ammonium Sulfate? I'll swing by Site One or Cleggs and also report back here what my local Horticulturist says, assuming they call me back.

The nitrogen source in lawn fertilizer is almost always going to be an ammonium sulfate and sulfur coated urea blend. Both are acidic in nature.

FWIW, sulfate (the oxidized form of sulfur) is not acidic, but elemental sulfur is acidic.

Ammonium nitrate is only sold to farmers in bulk, licensed, as it can be potentially used as an explosive. I think a homeowner can buy 4 lb bags for gardening. That’s why it foolish the AgCenter still provides this as a lawn fertilizer recommendation to homeowners.
Posted by ronk
Member since Jan 2015
6172 posts
Posted on 4/12/23 at 10:04 pm to
Craw, help me out since you are more familiar with it. Since testing for N is a moot point does LSU test for it or are the recommendations on their soil sample results simply based on grass type? I met with Dr Ron several times but for the 4 years I worked at Scott’s in BR we never once discussed their soil sample results.
Posted by TigeRoots
Member since Oct 2008
8505 posts
Posted on 4/24/23 at 9:43 pm to
So I rounded up 50# of Sulfur and some Fert this weekend, after seeding this past Friday.

Looking for some advice on timing of the Sulfur/Fertilizer application. Is it OK to apply these around the same time/same day?

OK to apply the Sulfur after recently seeding?

Thanks again guys -
This post was edited on 4/24/23 at 9:44 pm
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