Hose Valve Not Working After Freeze

Do you have one of those little backflow preventers on there? Take it off and see if it work. Mine froze up as well, but went back to normal.

Check the interior wall near the hose bib and make sure you don't see water on the interior of the home.

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What's a good tool to remove it?

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Two pairs of Channellocks should do it. Use the longer handled pair to hold backup on the spigot.

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But just check around it, because it may have a set screw or something that needs to be loosened.

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Yup. You can see it pretty plainly in the pic above. Mine didn't have one.

Is that what this guy is without the set screw?

As you can see, my channel locks aren't doing the job right now.

Water comes right up to the nozzle, just stops there though and leaks out a little bit right now so I don't think there is a clog or its frozen.

bump, this is now backing up behind the wall and appears to be leaking into my master closet through the wall on the other side. The space to reach this portion of my crawl space there is tiny AF and I can see the leak with a flashlight but figure I'm just going to call a plumber as I likely won't be able to fix whatever is going on. It appears to only be leaking if the faucet is turned on, so that is good.

Any ideas from you guys what has happened or if I could possible fix it by getting back there?

It will be full army crawl with hardly any room to turn around so only want to get back there if I know its something I can address on my own.

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Any ideas from you guys what has happened or if I could possible fix it by getting back there?

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I'm guessing this is a frostline bib and possibly by leaving the backflow valve attached with an uphill pitch on the frostline faucet, water was trapped inside and split the line between where the washer seat is and the outside handle.

I've had the same thing happen before where it only leaked when the valve was open. Now I make it a point to remove any and all attachments outside the house.

As to replacing it, it's going to be a two trip job and hopefully it's not soldered in. If you buy multiple length frostline faucet and return the ones you don't need it may save you a trip under the house. The faucets aren't too expensive (under $30).

First trip you'll need to figure out how long the frostline faucet is (anywhere from 8-14" long)

If it's not sweated in, a male adapter has already been soldered to the supply line inside. After removing any screws holding the flange on the outside of the house, you need two wrenches from inside the crawl space to remove the frostline faucet and reinstall the new one with the help of someone on the outside of the house.

IF it's sweated in, the job gets worse.

Good luck

That looks like a frost proof faucet judging by the fact that the handle is straight out from the wall. These faucets have a long rod that actually closes off the water 8-10 inches away from the outlet. I bet when you turned it off before it froze the water would drip out for a few seconds like it wasn’t closed (which is normal). Sounds like there was enough water in the faucet after the inner seal to freeze and split the faucet. May not be a huge repair, just replace the faucet. These can be hard to replace for the average joe.

Also, because they normally drip after being shut off, most people over tighten them and damage the washers. This makes them leak all the time. If yours had a damaged washer and was leaking, this could have been the water that froze and damaged the faucet.

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These can be hard to replace for the average joe.

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Any idea what I should expect as fair value from a plumber on this replacement?

I’d guess $150 call out, $100 in materials, then 3-4 hours of his time at $75-$100.