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Car coolant change
Posted on 4/25/26 at 10:17 am
Posted on 4/25/26 at 10:17 am
Got a quote to change out my engine coolant and it was $400. After watching a few videos, it seems that this is a very simple job and the new OEM coolant is about $20. Am I missing something or is it really this easy? Honda OEM does not recommend flush, literally just drain and replace.
Posted on 4/25/26 at 10:47 am to racknreel
quote:
literally just drain and replace.
Yep, easy. Nothing to it.
Posted on 4/25/26 at 10:49 am to racknreel
Some cars trap air more easily and have an air bleed valve. Would look up the procedure for your particular car but it's very easy.
Posted on 4/25/26 at 11:29 am to racknreel
Mostly a straight forward procedure but Murphy is always there to give it to you raw. Some vehicles need a vacuum pulled on the system to prevent air blockages, though that's probably only needed if you somehow completely drained the system. If you only empty the coolant reservoir and radiator and replace that amount you'll probably do enough good and avoid potential issues.
This post was edited on 4/25/26 at 11:30 am
Posted on 4/25/26 at 12:03 pm to racknreel
Not a tough job with the advice previously given. If your car is old, it may be a good time to replace the upper and lower radiator hoses particularly if there are cracks or bulges around the clamps/fasteners.
Posted on 4/25/26 at 12:53 pm to racknreel
Thanks successfully completed and drove around. Seems to be good, air purged and I checked a few hours later - reservoir and radiator still full. Squeezed the hoses to get the bubbles out.
Posted on 4/25/26 at 12:59 pm to racknreel
Was there any particular reason that you wanted to change the fluid?
Posted on 4/25/26 at 2:47 pm to racknreel
How long has it been since changed? Might be just an upsell from a mechanic/dealership.
Posted on 4/25/26 at 9:29 pm to Bamafig
Even modern long life OAT/HOAT coolants deplete their additive packages over time.
Posted on 4/25/26 at 9:42 pm to Bamafig
Car is well past the recommended mileage and I’d like to preserve the components that are in contact with it. I read online that the by products created over time can be mildly corrosive or can block small passages within the loop.
Edit: im trying to preserve this car as long as possible as it is my commuter. Have some other maintenance I’d like to do on it as well that I don’t have much experience with.
Edit: im trying to preserve this car as long as possible as it is my commuter. Have some other maintenance I’d like to do on it as well that I don’t have much experience with.
This post was edited on 4/25/26 at 9:46 pm
Posted on 4/25/26 at 10:09 pm to racknreel
When I was a kid, we changed the coolant every year.
Now the owners manual for my car says the extra long life coolant that comes in it is good for 10 years/100,000 miles. When you replace it, that’s good for another 5 years/50K miles.
Now the owners manual for my car says the extra long life coolant that comes in it is good for 10 years/100,000 miles. When you replace it, that’s good for another 5 years/50K miles.
Posted on 4/26/26 at 7:49 am to racknreel
Good for you doing it yourself. $400 to change it is outrageous.
Posted on 4/26/26 at 9:21 am to racknreel
quote:
Car is well past the recommended mileage and I’d like to preserve the components that are in contact with it. I read online that the by products created over time can be mildly corrosive or can block small passages within the loop.
Yes, the buffering capacity (alkalinity) of engine coolant is depleted over time lowering the coolant pH and making it more corrosive.
Two good articles on engine coolant written by the owner of a local automotive repair shop, AgCo Automotive, in BR.
Anti-Freeze & Cooling Tips
Replacing Engine Coolant
Another thing owners don’t consider, being radiators are made of aluminum & plastic, it’s wise to replace them as a maintenance item every 10-12 years…..yes, I keep vehicles a long-time (2005 & 2010 Toyotas) as well…....lol.
This post was edited on 4/26/26 at 11:17 am
Posted on 4/26/26 at 9:37 am to Twenty 49
Coolant should be changed at about half the recommended interval these days.
Posted on 4/26/26 at 9:42 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Same with all other fluids really. Especially ATF and gear oils, every 30k in my vehicles.
Posted on 4/26/26 at 11:28 am to racknreel
if you cant change coolant in a car you shouldn't be allowed to drive vote procreate. Its simple easier than changing oil.
Posted on 4/26/26 at 12:06 pm to Cracker
Read the thread bone head
This post was edited on 4/26/26 at 12:07 pm
Posted on 4/26/26 at 12:07 pm to CrawDude
Interesting. How much do new radiators go for? Are you buying OEM from the dealership or aftermarket?
When I drained mine the internals looked ok at the top under the cap. Can’t see the bottom of course.
When I drained mine the internals looked ok at the top under the cap. Can’t see the bottom of course.
Posted on 4/26/26 at 2:57 pm to racknreel
quote:
Interesting. How much do new radiators go for? Are you buying OEM from the dealership or aftermarket? When I drained mine the internals looked ok at the top under the cap. Can’t see the bottom of course.
Of course, it depends on the vehicle but an OEM radiator for my Toyotas (Tundra & Highlander) was not much more than $150. With rare exception I always go OEM parts critical to operation of the vehicle.
Without pulling my receipts, as I recall replacing the radiator, parts & labor, was $300-350 - independent shop of course, not the dealership. DYI project for most that can turn a wrench but I’m at an age where I don’t care to do that type of project anymore…..lol.
Now, radiators generally don’t catastrophically fail, so if it’s an around town-commuter vehicle one could roll the dice and wait until leakage and then replace, but if the vehicle is routinely taken on long road trips (mine are) then I find it best to be proactive and replace after a decade or so - don’t like the idea of being inconvenienced hours from home for an easily preventable issue.
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