re: Can you recommend me a sliding miter saw?

Unless you work in areas with no power then I don't see the advantage of a cordless CSMS. They are great site saws for people that work without electricity but beyond that I don't see the appeal. You set it up and it sits until you finish the job.

The Festool Kapex is a great high precision saw, mine stays set up in the shop for that purpose. It is NOT a saw I would use for framing and it has to do with the way the electronically controlled motor works.

Some people love the Bosch Glider but it is on the expensive side (nothing like the Kapex) and one of the big advantages is it takes up less front to back space, this is an issue with a shop setup, not so much on site. It however is usually accurate out of the box and is easy to adjust unless you get a lemon.

For rough work (certainly can be used for trim too) I have a Milwaukee 6955 which I love. It has a digital handle scale BUT it does not have a built-in laser. You can add one or set up a light for a blade shadow, I don't since I really don't use them because I went my whole life without them and it isn't really much of a help to me on a CSMS, some people "need" them.

CSMS recommendations threads are some of the longest on Sawmill Creek and other woodworking sites which is a testament to the number that are fine for even precision work if you adjust them properly. If you want to spend the money I say get a Bosch Glider but make sure you really need the capacity of a slider since if you don't a non-sliding miter saw will be easier to keep adjusted. If you don't want to spend ~600 or so I say drop back all the way to a Ryobi. If you don't use one all the time a Ryobi can work fine and I wouldn't mind trimming a house with one unless I was doing a bunch of large built up mouldings that I would want a high precision saw for. Putty is your friend.

Again I think the first question is do you really need the capacity of a slider. I always prefer a 12" blade to a 10" on a miter saw, they go about 45% longer between sharpenings. Also, buy a separate quality blade when you start trim work. For an excellent upper-mid level blade I suggest the Freud LU74R012, this is a thin kerf blade and the side grind really leaves a polished edge on either pine or hardwood. Amazon usually has good prices and they have lots of carbide for multiple sharpenings.

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Unless you work in areas with no power then I don't see the advantage of a cordless CSMS. They are great site saws for people that work without electricity but beyond that I don't see the appeal. You set it up and it sits until you finish the job.

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For a DIYer that would be the case but for those that can have multiple jobsites in a day or just want something that can handle average dimensional lumber that's lighter and more capable capacity wise than a single bevel 10" or something for hardwood/engineered flooring then they offer distinct advantages. Or simply someone who would only use one occaisonally and already have cordless tools in the same system. I run mine with either a 6Ah 20V or equivalent 60V battery and it has impressive cutting longevity, even in wet treated lumber.