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re: Brand new built home has high humidity. Normal?

Posted on 6/1/26 at 9:53 pm to
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
72294 posts
Posted on 6/1/26 at 9:53 pm to
quote:

AC should run like 15 minutes per cycle and cycle about 2-3 times per hour.


Seems to me that a properly sized conventional system would need to run continuously when it is 90+ outside. In a house insulated like a walk in cooler, that's gonna end up being a pretty damn small condenser.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
72294 posts
Posted on 6/1/26 at 10:01 pm to
quote:

fan set to auto?


That only matters with a variable speed unit. Conventional units are either on or off.

If he has a conventional unit, it's likely dramatically oversized.

They give him a callout to adjust dampers, not fix this kind of problem.
Posted by LEASTBAY
Member since Aug 2007
16586 posts
Posted on 6/1/26 at 11:01 pm to
Your fan speed might need to be slowed down a bit. Mine has 7 speeds. I have a Trane and there is a computer board with an LED readout and a button in the heater/fan case. I think mines on 3 or 4 out of 7.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
72294 posts
Posted on 6/1/26 at 11:11 pm to
That should be set to match the condenser horsepower and discharge velocity. Most air handlers can handle a very wide range of condenser.

It might improve OPs situation but it isnt the "right" thing to do. You're reducing the tonnage of the evaporator while keeping the same horsepower condenser. If you go down too far the evaporator will freeze up.
Posted by CrawDude
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2019
5912 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 12:32 am to
quote:

Seems to me that a properly sized conventional system would need to run continuously when it is 90+ outside. In a house insulated like a walk in cooler, that's gonna end up being a pretty damn small condenser.

That is correct - a properly sized HVAC according to Manual J and summer design temperature, which for BR, LA is 92 F, should run almost continuously from 11 am to near dusk - and they are are designed and engineered to do so.
Posted by CrawDude
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2019
5912 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 12:46 am to
quote:

fan set to auto? That only matters with a variable speed unit. Conventional units are either on or off. If he has a conventional unit, it's likely dramatically oversized. They give him a callout to adjust dampers, not fix this kind of problem.


No, the poster is correct on this even with a single stage system. If the thermostat is set to “auto” the entire system shuts down once the set temperature on the thermostat is satisfied, both the condensing unit and the furnace/air handler blower motor. But if the thermostat is set to the “on” position the condensing unit shuts down, cooling stops, when the set temperature on the thermostat is satisfied, but furnace/air handler blower continues to run and circulate air within the house. That definitely can increase humidity in the house in humid climates.

And of course if the thermostat is set to “fan” the blower motor also runs continuously circulating air in the house but the condensing unit never turns on for cooling.
This post was edited on 6/2/26 at 8:35 am
Posted by CrawDude
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2019
5912 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 12:56 am to
quote:

In Louisiana?????? Youre absolutely correct, but Im not sure the commercial installers I know do that.

True - can probably count the number that do this on one hand in Louisiana. Maybe two hours of work to commission a unit, if nothing is out of wack, so maybe $300-400 of labor for $10K + install…..lol. In certain counties around the USA commissioning a HVAC is required by code, as is manual J, S, & D for proper HVAC sizing. I believe a HVAC duct leakage test is required by code in Louisiana on new construction.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
72294 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 6:28 am to
I read it as Auto and not High or Low, as in with a variable speed air handler. My current rig has a continuously variable air handler and auto means something far different than it does with a standard rig.

Posted by TimeOutdoors
LA
Member since Sep 2014
13468 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 8:15 am to
quote:

you probably have too big of an ac unit in a too good of insulated house. unit isn't running long enough to get to your cool down temps. may have to add a dehumidifier to your system.


Second this. I just installed a dehumidifier in my bedroom for this exact reason.
Posted by BeerMoney
Baton Rouge
Member since Jul 2012
8952 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 8:32 am to
The builder should fix this. They should send the company that installed it back out and they should explain their calculations on why it’s correct. They should measure humidity in the home and show you why the equipment is measuring wrong if it is wrong. The installing company probably put their stickers on the equipment for service. When I bought my house it needed tuning, I called the installer and made sure they came out to verify things directly. Builder was a little slow on communication at that point as they had their money.

Side note. Make sure they registered your equipment in your name with the manufacturer. Mine did this and it saved me a lot of money on coils going bad. With some brands simply not registering your equipment with shorten the warranty
Posted by boxcarbarney
Above all things, be a man
Member since Jul 2007
26817 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 8:47 am to
quote:

good lord
you wouldn’t last a day at my house



Might as well not even have an AC
Posted by CrawDude
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2019
5912 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 9:01 am to
quote:

I read it as Auto and not High or Low, as in with a variable speed air handler. My current rig has a continuously variable air handler and auto means something far different than it does with a standard rig.

They’re all kind of setting options in newer smart thermostats. Mine has a “Circulate” option under “Fan” where rather than the air handler-furance blower running 24/7 in “fan” mode it will run intermittently every hour just to circulate air in the entire house for bit, maybe 15 min every hour.

But there are plenty articles where when a HO complains of high humidity in the house first thing to check is to make sure thermostat is set to “auto” and not “on”. Some like air circulating 24/7 but that will certainly raise humidity in a house in a humid climate. That’s what ceiling fans are for……lol.
Posted by CrawDude
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2019
5912 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 9:11 am to
quote:

Side note. Make sure they registered your equipment in your name with the manufacturer. Mine did this and it saved me a lot of money on coils going bad. With some brands simply not registering your equipment with shorten the warranty

Very good point for the OP. When registered with the manufacturer, there is a 10 year (maybe 12 years for some high end units) warranty on major parts, but if not registered with manufacturer the warranty on major parts defaults to 5 years. Reputable companies do this for the homeowner and send them the paperwork, but the homeowner can do it themselves. OP needs to check with the builder on this if he hasn’t been told anything.
Posted by bbvdd
Memphis, TN
Member since Jun 2009
28762 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 9:12 am to
Its a house not a herpetarium
Posted by GeauxLSUBengalTigers
Member since Sep 2016
559 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 9:19 am to
quote:

one free adjustment.
This is a problem. If it's wrong they're getting as many calls as it takes until things are right.
Posted by GeauxLSUBengalTigers
Member since Sep 2016
559 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 9:28 am to
quote:

you wouldn’t last a day at my house
And he said it doesn't feel as cold as he would like. Some people are just hot natured.

I don't typically set it any lower than 75.
Posted by gumbeaux
Member since Jun 2004
5355 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 9:40 am to
I built my home with spray foam insulation. My sister and brother-in-law are regional managers for an HVAC company and they told me to make sure fresh air is introduced into the duct system. Otherwise the house will be stuffy and smell like the inside of an ice chest.

I mentioned this to the HVAC designer and he completely agreed and said they always do that for homes that will have spray foam installation. I don’t know if that correlates with your concern but you may ask.
Posted by LEASTBAY
Member since Aug 2007
16586 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 10:04 am to
I dropped mine 1 step at a time over a few weeks. Monitored with humidity sensors. I have a Trane multi speed unit outdoors. Seems to be working.
This post was edited on 6/2/26 at 10:06 am
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
72294 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 10:35 am to
75 is damn comfortable with low humidity. A well designed and installed system doesnt require setting the unit to blast
Posted by Tifway419
Member since Sep 2022
2313 posts
Posted on 6/2/26 at 2:44 pm to
As many posted mentioned, your unit isn’t properly sized.

A friend of mine had this issue when building around Covid when there were shortages on everything, including HVAC. They installed too big of a unit and he ended up having mold.

You need to talk to your builder and don’t back down. My buddy fought this battle for a while and eventually got the builder to install dehumidifiers instead of changing out the unit. I’m no expert, but think the whole system needed to be downsized, but he settled for dehumidifiers.

It sucks, but a battle worth fighting for. Do your research, and good luck.
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