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re: 2x4 vs 2x6 exterior walls
Posted on 3/28/21 at 11:23 am to bigbuckdj
Posted on 3/28/21 at 11:23 am to bigbuckdj
I'd evaluate the cost difference between using ZIP-R and 2x6 with blown in cellulose.
BTW, I high recommend the ZIP system, even if you don't use the ZIP-R. I just finished a project with it and it's better than osb+tyvek in every way.
BTW, I high recommend the ZIP system, even if you don't use the ZIP-R. I just finished a project with it and it's better than osb+tyvek in every way.
This post was edited on 3/28/21 at 11:48 am
1
Posted on 3/28/21 at 11:41 am to footballdude
quote:
Also, in Baton Rouge, you would be better off saving the money on the wall and spending it on a higher seer rating on your air conditioner.
In south Louisiana you need your a/c to run a certain amount of time to remove humidity.
Is this 100% fact? It seems to make sense but I’m not sure that it is. As in, if your AC keeps your inside at 72* while the outside is 95* im not sure it’s 100% fact that your AC will remove less humidity if it takes less time to do this? There’s also built in dehumidifiers that while expensive, may make sense in this situation if you can run the AC less.
Posted on 3/28/21 at 8:04 pm to bigbuckdj
Frame at least 1 interior room with 2x6 walls 12"oc wrapped with 2 layers of 3/4" plywood with some 16 gage sheetmetal sandwiched in it and 2x6 roof 12"oc and a safe room door. Supposed to withstand EF-3.
Posted on 3/28/21 at 8:27 pm to dragginass
Thanks for that tip ched
What’s the cost difference vs osb tyvek? I was thinking even if you used r3 sheathing you’re adding something over where they can’t insulate well.
quote:
I high recommend the ZIP system, even if you don't use the ZIP-R. I just finished a project with it and it's better than osb+tyvek in every way.
What’s the cost difference vs osb tyvek? I was thinking even if you used r3 sheathing you’re adding something over where they can’t insulate well.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 1:12 am to bigbuckdj
My house is 2x6 exterior studs and 100% spray foamed. I built 2 yrs ago and the price difference was so minimal it wasn’t even noticed. My house is so damned tight, I have to crack a window to keep a fire burning in the fire place.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 8:16 am to Jack Daniel
quote:
My house is so damned tight, I have to crack a window to keep a fire burning in the fire place.
You should consider installing a HRV/ERV if your house is really that tight. Have you had a blower door test?
Posted on 3/29/21 at 8:19 am to bigbuckdj
quote:
What’s the cost difference vs osb tyvek? I was thinking even if you used r3 sheathing you’re adding something over where they can’t insulate well.
I don't have any experience in normal pricing worlds. Last fall though, OSB had gotten above $25 sheet, and I paid around $32 for ZIP as I recall (true 1/2", not 7/16"). For my small (ish) project it saved me the PITA of installing tyvek alone, and it does a MUCH better job of air sealing.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 8:31 am to dragginass
No and it may be a good idea, I just didn’t have much guidance in this area. I built the house myself and put 2x6 studs with the original plan of batt insulation in the walls and foam the roof but extra cost to foam the walls was cheaper than me buying the roll insulation so it was a no brainer.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 8:52 am to Jack Daniel
I don't have any actual experience with them either, other than just studying them for my own future build. I should have a blower door rig running by next year for nerdy fun. I have learned that ERV's are better for hot and humid climates because they remove humidity from the incoming air (HRV'S don't).
Here are two articles from FHB to check out, one featuring Risinger.
LINK
LINK
Here are two articles from FHB to check out, one featuring Risinger.
LINK
LINK
Posted on 3/29/21 at 10:50 am to dragginass
I am building right now and will be using 2x6 + Zip sheathing. Still haven't decided if I am doing spray foam or not. If I do spray foam then I will probably also get a quote for the aero barrier system that will caulk all of your air leaks in your house.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 10:55 am to Chasin The Tiger
Keep us posted on the aero barrier. I think the closest installers are Houston or Mobile? If you're going for that tight of a build, what is your plan for fresh air intake?
Posted on 3/29/21 at 10:59 am to Chasin The Tiger
Are your 2x6 on 24” centers?
Posted on 3/29/21 at 11:02 am to bigbuckdj
if you want a nice, efficient AND quiet do the 2x6 walls with dense packed blown cellulose. You really can't beat the final product of blown cellulose in the walls.
Save foam for crawl spaces, rim joists, basement walls, etc.
Save foam for crawl spaces, rim joists, basement walls, etc.
This post was edited on 3/29/21 at 11:19 am
Posted on 3/29/21 at 11:12 am to bigbuckdj
quote:
Are your 2x6 on 24” centers?
No, engineer called for 2x6 on 16" centers. Probably overkill but I'm going by their plan.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 11:15 am to dragginass
quote:
Keep us posted on the aero barrier. I think the closest installers are Houston or Mobile? If you're going for that tight of a build, what is your plan for fresh air intake?
This one is in Austin. I will do a ERV for air.
This post was edited on 3/29/21 at 11:16 am
Posted on 3/29/21 at 11:17 am to baldona
quote:
Is this 100% fact? It seems to make sense but I’m not sure that it is. As in, if your AC keeps your inside at 72* while the outside is 95* im not sure it’s 100% fact that your AC will remove less humidity if it takes less time to do this? There’s also built in dehumidifiers that while expensive, may make sense in this situation if you can run the AC less.
Yes. You will find numerous studies/articles among homeowner complaints on this topic.
This is a big reason why things like blown cellulose is a better choice for wall insulation than foam. Foam can become too air tight which then complicates the HVAC system even more as you need to add ERVs to the system in order to get enough fresh air changes.
Cellulose lowers infiltration level down typically to right at the lowest infiltration levels needed to avoid the added costs of ERVs.
Posted on 3/29/21 at 11:24 am to notsince98
Is the 24” spacing on the 2x6 not a concern for wall straightness and lack of support for the drywall?
Posted on 3/29/21 at 12:39 pm to bigbuckdj
My dad is building a house right now and chose 2x6—it had something to do with spray insulation—something like spraying in 2x4 space caused an extra step that 2x6 didn’t? I’m not sure.
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