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re: 2020 Garden Thread
Posted on 3/4/20 at 7:23 pm to Tigerroc
Posted on 3/4/20 at 7:23 pm to Tigerroc
Are you looking for anything in particular?
LSUAg has handouts for individual plant types that always have pest and disease management at the end.
I’ll see if I can find some other references out there.
LSUAg has handouts for individual plant types that always have pest and disease management at the end.
I’ll see if I can find some other references out there.
Posted on 3/5/20 at 12:15 am to PillageUrVillage
Pillage, I thought that it was good to expose seedlings to sun (before true leaves form), and doing this would make them more capable of handling sun when it is time?
Posted on 3/5/20 at 5:46 am to jyoung1
Not for 6 hours at a time. Start out with an hour of morning sun and work your way up from there.
Posted on 3/5/20 at 7:31 am to ChenierauTigre
Posted on 3/5/20 at 9:13 am to PillageUrVillage
Didn’t go through the entire thread to see if this was mentioned, but for those new to vegetable gardening, the “Louisiana Urban Gardener: A Beginners Guide to Growing Vegetable and Herbs” by Dr. Kathryn Fontenot, Horticultural Professor and Extension Specialist, with the LSU AgCenter. Published by the LSU Press, is a good reference book. It was published a couple years so it is not dated. Amazon, Barnes & Noble, etc.
As is Louisiana Home Vegetable Gardening written by a number of LSU AgCenter horticultural research and extension faculty. LINK

As is Louisiana Home Vegetable Gardening written by a number of LSU AgCenter horticultural research and extension faculty. LINK

Posted on 3/5/20 at 4:35 pm to CrawDude
Asparagus shooting up 4 or 5 per day now that it's getting warmer.


Posted on 3/5/20 at 4:45 pm to Zappas Stache
Is there any vegetable y'all have seen better yields with, grown in a pot than in a raised bed? I have some grow bags I want to try this year and trying to decide want I want in those, and what I want in my raised bed? Is there a difference? I plan on putting tomatoes and peppers in the bags and squash, cucumbers, zucchini, okra and maybe a couple others in the bed unless someone knows better.
This post was edited on 3/5/20 at 4:52 pm
Posted on 3/5/20 at 5:12 pm to CDH1990
I grow tomatoes in both grow bags and raised beds. In my experience, they perform better in the bags. Impossible to over water and I can fertilize them more often.
Posted on 3/6/20 at 8:52 am to bluemoons
What size grow bags do you use for tomatoes?
I used some 5 and 7 gallon bags last fall, but I bought some 15 gallon bags and I'm going to try those out this spring.
I used some 5 and 7 gallon bags last fall, but I bought some 15 gallon bags and I'm going to try those out this spring.
Posted on 3/6/20 at 1:04 pm to jyoung1
I’ve been using 10 gallon ones from amazon. I find the sizing to be very inconsistent amongst brands though.
Posted on 3/6/20 at 6:33 pm to bluemoons
This is very true. Comparing my 5 gallon bags to a 5 gallon bucket they are maybe the same diameter, but the bag is much shorter.
Posted on 3/6/20 at 6:44 pm to bluemoons
Question. I’m having some real issues growing my large tomato plants inside. Mostly due to lighting I think. And then i tried to help them by putting them outside and I made it worse. Frustrating because im using the exact same lights as last fall.
Question is, is it good to prune off dead or dying branches and also dead / dying leaves at end of branches?
Or does this just induce more stress to plant?
Ex. below I have been pinching off the end of branches like this and sometimes the whole branch if it doesn’t look like they can come back to health.

Question is, is it good to prune off dead or dying branches and also dead / dying leaves at end of branches?
Or does this just induce more stress to plant?
Ex. below I have been pinching off the end of branches like this and sometimes the whole branch if it doesn’t look like they can come back to health.

Posted on 3/6/20 at 9:06 pm to jyoung1
Mine get ratty sometimes for various reasons. I just punch off the bad branches when they get all withered. I’d only do it if the plant has a decent amount of top growth though and otherwise looks healthy. You don’t wanna pinch all the branches off and leave the plant with hardly any leaves.
Posted on 3/7/20 at 4:57 pm to PillageUrVillage
All of my tomatoes and peppers are in the ground. I’m in recovery from the flu, so it was a difficult day.
I had to get out of the house, though.
This post was edited on 3/7/20 at 5:53 pm
Posted on 3/7/20 at 10:22 pm to PillageUrVillage
2 questions for everyone
1. Trying to grow tomatoes and peppers in peat pots. The peppers haven't sprouted yet. But tomatoes look very stringy. It's early but looked same way last year. Not enough light? I've read about touching them to induce response or light fan breeze to make them stronger. What do I need to do?
2. some of the peat pots look like they have mold on them. Figure this means too much water but I was afraid I was underwatering them (skipped some days out of town). Common? Get rid of them/don't worry?
Thanks
1. Trying to grow tomatoes and peppers in peat pots. The peppers haven't sprouted yet. But tomatoes look very stringy. It's early but looked same way last year. Not enough light? I've read about touching them to induce response or light fan breeze to make them stronger. What do I need to do?
2. some of the peat pots look like they have mold on them. Figure this means too much water but I was afraid I was underwatering them (skipped some days out of town). Common? Get rid of them/don't worry?
Thanks
Posted on 3/8/20 at 7:53 am to Stateguy
Yeah, sun and wind will fix the leggy problems with tomato’s.
You can actually let those peat pots get pretty damn dry and the plants get ok. Just let it go until the outside is completely dry then water it again. Obviously if it shows any signs of stress go ahead and water any way.
Do you have a heat mat under the peppers?
You can actually let those peat pots get pretty damn dry and the plants get ok. Just let it go until the outside is completely dry then water it again. Obviously if it shows any signs of stress go ahead and water any way.
Do you have a heat mat under the peppers?
Posted on 3/8/20 at 8:34 am to Stateguy
quote:
1. Trying to grow tomatoes and peppers in peat pots. The peppers haven't sprouted yet. But tomatoes look very stringy. It's early but looked same way last year. Not enough light? I've read about touching them to induce response or light fan breeze to make them stronger. What do I need to do?
Low light and high heat will usually cause plants to get leggy. Increasing light intensity and a small fan will help greatly. If you are going to put them outside, make sure to put them in a sheltered location to protect them from excessive wind. Introduce them to sunlight a little at a time. See my post further up the page about hardening off.
quote:
2. some of the peat pots look like they have mold on them. Figure this means too much water but I was afraid I was underwatering them (skipped some days out of town). Common? Get rid of them/don't worry?
This happens to me almost every year and it has not cause any major problems yet. About once a week I add a little peroxide to the water. This helps oxygenate the roots and prevents rot. You can also let them get pretty dry between watering. This will mitigate the problem.
Gardening with hydrogen peroxide
I use the mix rate on the first chart “To water or mist plants, to soak seeds, to add to water used to wash sprouts”.
Posted on 3/8/20 at 10:25 am to PillageUrVillage
quote:
All of my tomatoes and peppers are in the ground. I’m in recovery from the flu, so it was a difficult day. I had to get out of the house, though.
You're ahead of me. I put a few of my tomatoes in the ground last sunday then in the middle of the week decided I needed to change my layout so now I have to move them again
Posted on 3/8/20 at 11:02 am to BallsEleven
At work they call that “continuous improvement initiative”. 
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