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re: PC Discussion - Gaming, Performance and Enthusiasts
Posted on 1/4/15 at 2:37 am to robzillaaa
Posted on 1/4/15 at 2:37 am to robzillaaa
So NewEgg dropped Shoprunner, thus eliminating by business with them. Who in their right mind would pay $13.99 for 2 day shipping in 2015? And they obviously did it to push NewEgg Premiere, which sucks and everyone hates who has tried it, and it's $3.99 for 3 day shipping, again, who in their right mind would do that when Prime is 2 day free? Get real.
That reddit thread on it is not so nice, lot of people done with NewEgg, especially the ones with Prime, which seem to be most.
That reddit thread on it is not so nice, lot of people done with NewEgg, especially the ones with Prime, which seem to be most.
1
Posted on 1/4/15 at 9:09 am to UltimateHog
(no message)
This post was edited on 8/8/20 at 10:52 am
Posted on 1/4/15 at 9:52 am to TexasTiger39
Who isn't a prime member?
I still ordered most of my parts from Newegg.
I still ordered most of my parts from Newegg.
Posted on 1/4/15 at 11:06 am to UltimateHog
Posted on 1/4/15 at 11:21 am to Mr Gardoki
Rather go 4K for as expensive as they are/will be.
So not worth.
So not worth.
Posted on 1/4/15 at 12:03 pm to UltimateHog
1440 and 144hz w/ gsync >>>>>>>>>>>>> 4k 60hz and its not close
Posted on 1/4/15 at 12:04 pm to UltimateHog
Hell no. One of those monitors is a 144hz 1440p IPS with gsync. Give me that over 60 Hz 4K, with or without gsync, any fricking day.
But if you're sticking with AMD, definitely best to wait for freesync to arrive in similar form.
But if you're sticking with AMD, definitely best to wait for freesync to arrive in similar form.
Posted on 1/4/15 at 12:07 pm to ILikeLSUToo
frick that, it'll be a thousand dollars. You are an idiot if you spend that much on a monitor, frick the specs, especially at 1440p.
4K or go home at that price point.
4K or go home at that price point.
This post was edited on 1/4/15 at 12:08 pm
Posted on 1/4/15 at 12:13 pm to UltimateHog
Where's the price information? I wouldn't spend a grand on any monitor, especially not a 4K TN panel. A 60Hz 4K Gsync already exists, and it's the same price as the Swift and still in stock. My hope is that these new Acer monitors -- one that's a TN and directly competes with the swift, and the other IPS that will probably cost more -- will actually drive prices down. Right now, the swift is $800 and can't stay in stock for longer than 5 minutes at a time.
EDIT: Not to mention, no single video card has the memory bandwidth to drive the newer and upcoming AAA titles in 4K with high-ultra textures (you want large, uncompressed textures or else you might as well be playing at 1440P anyway), so a multi-GPU solution is still not viable because even though you'll get the framerate you want, frametimes will be all over the map with hitching. DSR has shown me that my SLI 980 setup is not quite ready to play some of the newer blockbusters at 4K. The 390X may put us closer to the mark, but 4GB is still not enough vram.
EDIT: Not to mention, no single video card has the memory bandwidth to drive the newer and upcoming AAA titles in 4K with high-ultra textures (you want large, uncompressed textures or else you might as well be playing at 1440P anyway), so a multi-GPU solution is still not viable because even though you'll get the framerate you want, frametimes will be all over the map with hitching. DSR has shown me that my SLI 980 setup is not quite ready to play some of the newer blockbusters at 4K. The 390X may put us closer to the mark, but 4GB is still not enough vram.
This post was edited on 1/4/15 at 12:23 pm
Posted on 1/4/15 at 12:20 pm to ILikeLSUToo
It's a no brainer it will be at or near a grand.
Even $800 for one is just pure stupidity.
Grab a Korean 1440 and OC to 90-100Hz and wait another year preferably two when 4K is more mainstream and achievable for the AAA games and GPU(s) with more monitor options and thus much better pricing.
Even $800 for one is just pure stupidity.
Grab a Korean 1440 and OC to 90-100Hz and wait another year preferably two when 4K is more mainstream and achievable for the AAA games and GPU(s) with more monitor options and thus much better pricing.
This post was edited on 1/4/15 at 12:25 pm
Posted on 1/4/15 at 12:33 pm to UltimateHog
You'll be singing a different tune when Freesync hits the market. Variable refresh rate monitors are the greatest thing to happen to PC gaming since PC gaming itself.
I'm not trying to justify the price at all. The $800 swift price is a joke, but people are paying it (and I have considered paying it because there was nothing else like it). That's why the main reason I'm excited about these monitors is because they introduce competition against ASUS, and it looks to be a promising year of Freesync vs. G-Sync, thus driving down prices to something reasonable. Until then, I'm sticking with my 60Hz Korean, and I'll probably be sticking with the 980s for a long while, too.
However, if right this minute I had a gun to my head to choose between 144Hz IPS 1440P with Gsync and a 60Hz TN 4K with Gsync -- and both were $4000 or $300 or $10 or free -- from a technical standpoint the former is the obvious choice for gaming right now, until another generation or two of GPUs has hit the market.
I'm not trying to justify the price at all. The $800 swift price is a joke, but people are paying it (and I have considered paying it because there was nothing else like it). That's why the main reason I'm excited about these monitors is because they introduce competition against ASUS, and it looks to be a promising year of Freesync vs. G-Sync, thus driving down prices to something reasonable. Until then, I'm sticking with my 60Hz Korean, and I'll probably be sticking with the 980s for a long while, too.
However, if right this minute I had a gun to my head to choose between 144Hz IPS 1440P with Gsync and a 60Hz TN 4K with Gsync -- and both were $4000 or $300 or $10 or free -- from a technical standpoint the former is the obvious choice for gaming right now, until another generation or two of GPUs has hit the market.
This post was edited on 1/4/15 at 12:35 pm
Posted on 1/4/15 at 12:51 pm to UltimateHog
Suddenly someone is an expert.
Eta: I installed the new netgear wireless n450 router ilikelsutoo recommended. Speed test show little difference so far. I'll have to try remote play later to see how it does. I don't need faster speeds, just better range to not drop signal.
Eta: I installed the new netgear wireless n450 router ilikelsutoo recommended. Speed test show little difference so far. I'll have to try remote play later to see how it does. I don't need faster speeds, just better range to not drop signal.
This post was edited on 1/4/15 at 12:53 pm
Posted on 1/4/15 at 1:03 pm to ILikeLSUToo
My psu still powers on when shorting those pins. A voltmeter showed the expected voltage. I'm inclined to say this is not the problem.
It seems the motherboard is dead. There is an indicator on the board (dr debug) that I'd expect to indicate if the CPU has issues. Anything else I need to check?
I contacted asrock support but they are not working until tomorrow... And newegg return window was 30 days, which I am just over.
It seems the motherboard is dead. There is an indicator on the board (dr debug) that I'd expect to indicate if the CPU has issues. Anything else I need to check?
I contacted asrock support but they are not working until tomorrow... And newegg return window was 30 days, which I am just over.
Posted on 1/4/15 at 1:27 pm to Mr Gardoki
quote:
Eta: I installed the new netgear wireless n450 router ilikelsutoo recommended. Speed test show little difference so far. I'll have to try remote play later to see how it does. I don't need faster speeds, just better range to not drop signal.
Yeah, reliability is the important part. Lots of variance in router performance. Router A might get double the throughput of router B at X distance, but router A constantly loses connection whereas router B remains solid.
If your reliability doesn't improve with this router, you're gonna have to either spend more money or find a better place for the router. The latter might be your biggest problem anyway.
Another, less clean option would be to install a wireless repeater at the midway point between your Netgear and your bedroom where the signal is poor, and just use the repeater for your weaker clients that have trouble maintaining connection with the router. Throughput will be cut in half, but it might end up being similar to what you're getting already with all the attenuation between you and the Netgear.
Posted on 1/4/15 at 1:36 pm to ILikeLSUToo
If this doesn't help then I'll probably suck it up and deal with it. It would help a lot to move it but I can't put it anywhere else really. It's on one end of the house and I have no where to put it elsewhere.
Posted on 1/4/15 at 1:37 pm to HobbsTheTiger
quote:
My psu still powers on when shorting those pins. A voltmeter showed the expected voltage. I'm inclined to say this is not the problem.
I meant you should try to short the power pins on the motherboard itself, with the PSU hooked up to the board as normal:
Just to see if the board starts up that way.
quote:
A voltmeter showed the expected voltage. I'm inclined to say this is not the problem.
Did you measure every rail? Either way, it's probably not the PSU. Just safe to cover all bases
quote:
There is an indicator on the board (dr debug) that I'd expect to indicate if the CPU has issues.
The problem is, a symptom of a dead CPU is the motherboard not powering on. It's also the symptom of a dead motherboard, and sometimes the symptom of dead RAM. Out of those three, it's most commonly the motherboard, though.
Posted on 1/4/15 at 4:50 pm to ILikeLSUToo
I read 2.74 volts across those power on pins. Is this expected? Shorting the pins as in the picture gets nothing.
LINK
This page suggests that I should get some indication from the LEDs if memory or CPU issues are found. Short of getting a second everything, what should I do?
Swapped out the memory sticks trying one at a time. Nothing.
LINK
This page suggests that I should get some indication from the LEDs if memory or CPU issues are found. Short of getting a second everything, what should I do?
Swapped out the memory sticks trying one at a time. Nothing.
Posted on 1/4/15 at 6:19 pm to HobbsTheTiger
quote:
This page suggests that I should get some indication from the LEDs if memory or CPU issues are found.
Yeah, maybe. Back in the day, dead or missing CPUs would not allow mobo to power on. Things have probably changed, but since it's almost never ever the CPU that's the problem, I've not paid attention.
quote:
I read 2.74 volts across those power on pins. Is this expected?
No idea. I would be testing the power supply to rule that out completely. You can test it manually with a multimeter; it will take 15 minutes or so, at least, vs. 3 seconds on a $7 PSU tester. Here are instructions to test a PSU manually with a multimeter: LINK
Other than that, I'd replace the motherboard.
Posted on 1/4/15 at 7:01 pm to Mr Gardoki
quote:
Suddenly someone is an expert.
You noticed this too huh?
Posted on 1/4/15 at 7:04 pm to stout
I knew it couldn't be just me.
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