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re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Posted on 12/12/18 at 7:37 am to BugAC
Posted on 12/12/18 at 7:37 am to BugAC
I used it a few times for IPAs back when it was called brett trois. I never got the NEIPA vibe from it, but I never adjusted my water towards that spectrum. I just used good ol' Nola tapwater (minus the chloramine). It's really fruity. Like really really fruity.
Posted on 12/12/18 at 8:40 am to CarRamrod
quote:
Why? you get a quality flask , these are designed to do this.
Yeah I know. But things don't always work the way they're designed to.
Posted on 12/12/18 at 9:21 am to BugAC
Sorry, I am a pretty novice homebrewer. You are going to have to explain what this means:
Also, I have never made a starter nor do I have an erlynmeyer flask. Truth be told I didn't even know what a starter was until you just mentioned it. Can I pitch more without a starter? I'll probably look into getting all that stuff on the next batch.
quote:
1) it's a low attenuative strain
Also, I have never made a starter nor do I have an erlynmeyer flask. Truth be told I didn't even know what a starter was until you just mentioned it. Can I pitch more without a starter? I'll probably look into getting all that stuff on the next batch.
Posted on 12/12/18 at 9:45 am to GeauxPack81
Apparent attenuation is a measure of how well the yeast ferments. To calculate it, it's AA = (OG - FG) / OG expressed in gravity points. So if you have a beer that started at 1.050 and finished at 1.010, the attenuation is:
(50 - 10)/50 = 80%
The yeast lab will use a standard wort to measure attenuation and this wort will typically not have the same composition as your wort. So YMMV. You can make a more fermentable wort by mashing at a lower temperature or less fermentable by mashing higher. For these reasons, you should never believe any brewing software that predicts final gravity.
(50 - 10)/50 = 80%
The yeast lab will use a standard wort to measure attenuation and this wort will typically not have the same composition as your wort. So YMMV. You can make a more fermentable wort by mashing at a lower temperature or less fermentable by mashing higher. For these reasons, you should never believe any brewing software that predicts final gravity.
This post was edited on 12/12/18 at 9:50 am
Posted on 12/12/18 at 9:49 am to GeauxPack81
quote:so when you see your different yeasts you will see and attenuation percentage. this is the measurement of the conversion of sugars into alcohol and c02. So a high attenuative strain will convert a ton of the sugars and bring your FG very very low. a low attenuative strain wont bring your FG down as far.
Sorry, I am a pretty novice homebrewer. You are going to have to explain what this means:
quote:
1) it's a low attenuative strain
quote:you dont need a flask, just a vessel to grow yeast that is sterile like a carboy. You basically make a small batch of wort with DME(OG 1.038) and you pitch your single bag of yeast (100 billion, but based on age could be 75%,50%,30% of original amount). Once it is grown you can decant and it is ready to pitch in your wort. So instead of paying 8 bucks a bag when a beer calls for 500billion cells($8x5=40$) you buy one and grow it to a fully active yeast cake.
Also, I have never made a starter nor do I have an erlynmeyer flask. Truth be told I didn't even know what a starter was until you just mentioned it. Can I pitch more without a starter? I'll probably look into getting all that stuff on the next batch.
Posted on 12/12/18 at 9:57 am to BugAC
I brewed my Christmas Lager last night. I really need to get my brewing process under control and more organized. im ready to build my full system where im not using this one piece for 4 different things when i have 4 of the same pieces just sitting there.
Being a lager, i wonder if i can get one of the kegs out in 2 weeks. I did this quick lagering schedule for my last one and it worked well. Im not putting my 10 gallon fermentor in the fridge, im hoping the cold nights will do the lagering.
But if your looking to lager and dont want to wait months read this article. It worked well on my last batch.
LINK
Being a lager, i wonder if i can get one of the kegs out in 2 weeks. I did this quick lagering schedule for my last one and it worked well. Im not putting my 10 gallon fermentor in the fridge, im hoping the cold nights will do the lagering.
But if your looking to lager and dont want to wait months read this article. It worked well on my last batch.
LINK
Posted on 12/12/18 at 10:18 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
GeauxPack81
Everything mentioned below is correct.
And you can use a mason jar to make a yeast starter. It doesn't take much. Like CarRamrod said, buy some dried malt extract (DME) and boil some water. brewer's friend has a good yeast starter calculator for your phone. just look up the yeast pitch calculator. My process:
12-48 hours before brew day:
1. Determine my wort gravity for starter. You don't really want to go over 1.045 for a starter. You're simply giving the yeast some easily fermentable sugars and not trying to make beer out of the starter. You want to wake up the yeast. I typically shoot for 1.036 to 1.04 for my gravity for a starter and plug that in.
2. I typically make 1.5 to 2 liter starters, depending on the strain, but on average, my go to is this size. So measure out 1.5 liters of water and bring it to a boil (i do so in a pot, others do it in the erlinmeyer flask. If not using this flask, just use a pot). Add your DME to the pot. Be very careful of boil overs. I typically add a drop or 2 of Fermcap-S to the starter. In addition, i add yeast nutrient to the starter.
3. Reduce to a low boil for about 10 minutes.
4. Cut off heat, and cool to yeast pitching temps. I usually just fill the sink with ice and water and put the pot in the sink.
5. Once to preferred yeast pitching temp, pitch yeast. I then swirl around a bit.
6. Cover with foil. I typically spray some starsan on the foil.
7. (optional) place on stirplate. A stirplate is optional, but they really do help. If you don't have a stir plate, then just swirl your jar every now and then until you are ready to pitch into your fermenter. If i didn't have a stir plate, i would probably make my starters 2 days in advance. With a stir plate, if i have a newer vial of yeast, i'll make my starter as soon as 12 hours prior to brew day.
Posted on 12/12/18 at 10:22 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
Sorry, I am a pretty novice homebrewer. You are going to have to explain what this means:
quote:
1) it's a low attenuative strain
It means that that particular yeast typically finishes with a higher FG (i.e. doesn't ferment out as much), which is what you want for that type of beer. I'd expect it to finish somewhere in the 1.020 range though.
quote:
Also, I have never made a starter nor do I have an erlynmeyer flask. Truth be told I didn't even know what a starter was until you just mentioned it. Can I pitch more without a starter? I'll probably look into getting all that stuff on the next batch.
You don't necessarily need a flask to make a starter, but it makes it easier. You can make one in a growler and swirl it around every chance you get.
Liquid yeast is great, but most of the time there are only 100 billion cells per package. You pretty much need double that (or more) for beers above 1.050 (this is very simplified), and a starter will get you there.
Posted on 12/12/18 at 10:34 am to BugAC
Thanks for all the advice from everyone...
Also, at what point is it too late to add more yeast? As long as I still give it the appropriate time to ferment after adding the yeast?
quote:I am assuming you transfer to an Erlenmeyer flask or something similar somewhere in this part of the process?
4. Cut off heat, and cool to yeast pitching temps. I usually just fill the sink with ice and water and put the pot in the sink.
5. Once to preferred yeast pitching temp, pitch yeast. I then swirl around a bit.
6. Cover with foil. I typically spray some starsan on the foil.
Also, at what point is it too late to add more yeast? As long as I still give it the appropriate time to ferment after adding the yeast?
Posted on 12/12/18 at 10:39 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
I am assuming you transfer to an Erlenmeyer flask or something similar somewhere in this part of the process?
Yes, sorry. Once you get to the preferred pitching temp, transfer to your flask, jar, etc...
quote:
Also, at what point is it too late to add more yeast? As long as I still give it the appropriate time to ferment after adding the yeast?
Never, really. As long as you maintain minimal oxygen exposure, you should be good to go. The only drawbacks, in the non-sour beer world, would be if your beer sat on old yeast for several months before adding new yeast. Then the problem isn't with the new yeast, but autolysis from the old yeast, which produces negative aroma/flavor.
Posted on 12/12/18 at 10:40 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
I am assuming you transfer to an Erlenmeyer flask or something similar somewhere in this part of the process?
If you have a flask (and if it's made out of Pyrex, Kimax or similar) you can do the whole process in the flask. No need to transfer.
quote:
Also, at what point is it too late to add more yeast? As long as I still give it the appropriate time to ferment after adding the yeast?
You can add more yeast anytime. I'd recommend using dry yeast (such as US-05) and rehydrating it in sterile, distilled water.
Posted on 12/12/18 at 10:46 am to GeauxPack81
You can also use something like Propper Starter or Fast Pitch canned wort. Then you just pour the can into your flask/jar along with a 16oz bottle of water and add your yeast. I've taken to using these instead of boiling DME and water then chilling. It's easy to just pop a top and have my yeast starter going in 2 minutes.
Propper Starter
Fast Pitch
Propper Starter
Fast Pitch
Posted on 12/12/18 at 10:52 am to BMoney
They sell either of those at LA Homebrew?
Posted on 12/12/18 at 10:54 am to BMoney
quote:
You can also use something like Propper Starter or Fast Pitch canned wort. Then you just pour the can into your flask/jar along with a 16oz bottle of water and add your yeast. I've taken to using these instead of boiling DME and water then chilling. It's easy to just pop a top and have my yeast starter going in 2 minutes.
You can also can your own starter wort in mason jars if you have a pressure cooker. I used to do about 3 gallons at a time and then open up a couple of jars of wort when I need to make a starter. Now my starters are a gallon (sometimes more) so it's not as convenient for me as it used to be.
Posted on 12/12/18 at 1:58 pm to USEyourCURDS
Just texted J Murdah to confirm that was you.
Posted on 12/12/18 at 2:35 pm to BugAC
Started a thread, was told to come here haha. A lot of this is over my head. What would yall recommend for a complete novice? Kits, types of beer to start on, lessons learned, etc? Thanks guys
Posted on 12/12/18 at 2:39 pm to JGood
quote:
A lot of this is over my head. What would yall recommend for a complete novice? Kits, types of beer to start on, lessons learned, etc? Thanks guys
Are you in Baton Rouge? If so, just go to LA Homebrew. They will set you up with everything you need.
Type it really doesn't matter. I started out doing extract beers. Only really ordered 1 or 2 kits in my time brewing. It's the easiest, but all grain really isn't more complicated, but does require more equipment.
As far as style, whatever you want to brew is up to you. You can do a good west coast IPA pretty easily. NEIPA's are a little more advanced if you are adjusting water chemistry and due to the hop timing.
quote:
lessons learned
While it is important to clean and sanitize everything, it's harder to screw up beer than you think.
Second, fermentation temperature control is the key to making good beer. This can be done as easily as making a swamp cooler.
Yeast starters almost guarantee good fermentation unless you are using very old yeast.
If you want a little more in depth explanation to either, we're all glad to help.
This post was edited on 12/12/18 at 2:40 pm
Posted on 12/12/18 at 2:43 pm to BugAC
I moved out of state, but there's tons of beer supply stores up here (South Carolina) so I'm sure there's something comparable. I just didn't know if there was a starter kit that had the necessary components somewhere.
I have an empty room in my house that I can basically use to set whatever I need up.
Whats a swamp cooler?
I have an empty room in my house that I can basically use to set whatever I need up.
Whats a swamp cooler?
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