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Started By
Message
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Posted on 12/11/18 at 8:12 am to GeauxPack81
Posted on 12/11/18 at 8:12 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
Recipe called for an OG of 1.072 and FG of 1.02. I was a little under the OG at 1.066, and I just tested the gravity while preparing to transfer into the secondary and it was at 1.036... Will another week get it that much further down? Did I not pitch enough yeast? What should I do?
Could you post some more info?
Grain Bill?
Mash Temp?
Yeast Used
Starter for yeast?
Posted on 12/11/18 at 8:17 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
I just tested the gravity while preparing to transfer into the secondary and it was at 1.036
Did you already transfer it?
Move it somewhere warm. Wait a few days. Test is to see if it's going down. Wait some more.
Posted on 12/11/18 at 8:32 am to BugAC
Did not transfer it yet because I wanted it to sit on the yeast longer.
Used TheAleRunner's recipe:
11 pounds Maris Otter malt
1 pound brown malt
1 pound chocolate malt
1 pound flaked oats
12 ounces Crystal 60 malt
8 ounces black patent malt
2 ounces Northern Brewer hops added for 60 minutes
London ESB ale yeast (Wyeast 1968)
Mash Temp - 156
No starter for yeast
Fermentation temp - 68
ETA: I feel like I probably should have used 2 packets of yeast.
Used TheAleRunner's recipe:
11 pounds Maris Otter malt
1 pound brown malt
1 pound chocolate malt
1 pound flaked oats
12 ounces Crystal 60 malt
8 ounces black patent malt
2 ounces Northern Brewer hops added for 60 minutes
London ESB ale yeast (Wyeast 1968)
Mash Temp - 156
No starter for yeast
Fermentation temp - 68
ETA: I feel like I probably should have used 2 packets of yeast.
This post was edited on 12/11/18 at 8:34 am
Posted on 12/11/18 at 9:05 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
London ESB ale yeast (Wyeast 1968)
Mash Temp - 156
No starter for yeast
Fermentation temp - 68
These are your problems.
1) it's a low attenuative strain
2) Mash temp is very high, IMO.
3) You definitely underpitched your yeast. I would have used 3 packets with no starter, assuming these were newer vials of yeast. Just a tip, always use a starter. Makes your life so much easier, IMO.
4) Your ferm temp seems low, though the vial says 64-72 degrees.
I'd pitch a 1 liter starter of Irish ale yeast and give it another week. Irish Ale has always worked great for me with stouts/porters. Or, you can try using the same yeast again, but build up a starter for a couple days before pitching. Your beer is not lost, just add more yeast and give it another 7-10 days.
This post was edited on 12/11/18 at 9:07 am
Posted on 12/11/18 at 9:18 am to BugAC
I Love that i got started making yeast starters. I mean fermentation goes from 90 to nothing within a few hours. and fermentation is so fast. I highly reccomend getting things to make starters.
cheapest place i found to get flasks is here. LINK Thats a 3 L. if you want to make a 1L starter i would make it in the 3L to prevent boilover. I did make a 5L in my 5L flash but i had to sit there and watch it so it didnt boil over.
cheapest place i found to get flasks is here. LINK Thats a 3 L. if you want to make a 1L starter i would make it in the 3L to prevent boilover. I did make a 5L in my 5L flash but i had to sit there and watch it so it didnt boil over.
Posted on 12/11/18 at 9:33 am to CarRamrod
So my slow build to full electric brewing is on it's way. I am getting the Hot Rod Heat Stick from brewhardware.com for Christmas.
LINK
And I also am buying the InfuSSion Mash Tun from SS Brewtech.
Brulosophy review
SS Brewtech
This will get me started. I should be able to plug the heat stick into a timer and set it to kick on in the morning. I'll be able to put the heat stick in the mash tun, get my water to the correct mash temp, then mash in. I'll also be able to use this to get my sparge water up to temp. The problem now, would be i would still have to transfer to my cooler, so a new kettle will be in order and i'll use my old kettle as my HLT.
The next step would be to buy a march pump and the Mash recirculation/vorlauf attachment for the mash tun. Recirculation wouldn't be needed until later.
This would then allow me to start my vorlauf, and conduct the mash out without need for gravity.
The next step, i'd like to be able to get one of the brewtech kettles, and later, with the correct attachments, turn the kettle to an ekettle that i could incorporate into the ebrewing system from brewtech. However, i'm not sure if their regular kettles can be retrofitted to electric. Eventually, i'd like to have this setup i posted about earlier.
However, with the heat stick, InfuSSion mash tun, a couple pumps, and a new kettle, i may or may not decide to go with a complete electric system with a control panel. We'll see. It'll be fun figuring out my new equipment as i get it.
LINK
And I also am buying the InfuSSion Mash Tun from SS Brewtech.
Brulosophy review
SS Brewtech
This will get me started. I should be able to plug the heat stick into a timer and set it to kick on in the morning. I'll be able to put the heat stick in the mash tun, get my water to the correct mash temp, then mash in. I'll also be able to use this to get my sparge water up to temp. The problem now, would be i would still have to transfer to my cooler, so a new kettle will be in order and i'll use my old kettle as my HLT.
The next step would be to buy a march pump and the Mash recirculation/vorlauf attachment for the mash tun. Recirculation wouldn't be needed until later.
This would then allow me to start my vorlauf, and conduct the mash out without need for gravity.
The next step, i'd like to be able to get one of the brewtech kettles, and later, with the correct attachments, turn the kettle to an ekettle that i could incorporate into the ebrewing system from brewtech. However, i'm not sure if their regular kettles can be retrofitted to electric. Eventually, i'd like to have this setup i posted about earlier.
However, with the heat stick, InfuSSion mash tun, a couple pumps, and a new kettle, i may or may not decide to go with a complete electric system with a control panel. We'll see. It'll be fun figuring out my new equipment as i get it.
This post was edited on 12/11/18 at 9:36 am
Posted on 12/11/18 at 9:34 am to CarRamrod
quote:
cheapest place i found to get flasks is here. LINK Thats a 3 L. if you want to make a 1L starter i would make it in the 3L to prevent boilover. I did make a 5L in my 5L flash but i had to sit there and watch it so it didnt boil over.
I'm still to afraid of putting glass over direct flame, even tough i know these flasks can handle it. I still make my starter wort in a pot and transfer to the flask.
Posted on 12/11/18 at 9:42 am to BugAC
quote:that glass on these flasks are specifically designed for that.
I'm still to afraid of putting glass over direct flame, even tough i know these flasks can handle it. I still make my starter wort in a pot and transfer to the flask.
Man that is a ton of money for a 10 gallon mash tun. I still planning on my build and upgrading to a keg for my mash tun. still have to get that electricy fed before i start buying parts for the recirc system.
This post was edited on 12/11/18 at 10:01 am
Posted on 12/11/18 at 10:07 am to CarRamrod
quote:
Man that is a ton of money for a 10 gallon mash tun.
$400 isn't too bad. They also designed it to be incorporated into a RIMS system. Considering my igloo cooler with the false bottom and valve and everything cost a little more than $200, $400 for this system with the ports for attachments isn't bad.
Also, i'm just noticing i won't be needing the recirculation system until i go to a full RIMS system, so only piece i'll need is the vorlauf attachment.
So first few buys is the Mash Tun, Vorlauf attachment, and Pump.
Posted on 12/11/18 at 10:10 am to BugAC
i got these cheap ebay foodgrad hot water pumps that have worked great.
until i broke them i just put a cam lok on them and attacked them to the valve on my keggle and was able to pump out/mash/recirc. I need to order some more. there are 12v and 24v and the 12v just didnt have a lot of power.
until i broke them i just put a cam lok on them and attacked them to the valve on my keggle and was able to pump out/mash/recirc. I need to order some more. there are 12v and 24v and the 12v just didnt have a lot of power.
Posted on 12/11/18 at 11:31 am to BugAC
quote:
I'm still to afraid of putting glass over direct flame
I've been using an Erlenmyer on my gas cook top for years with no issues. The only thing with an Erlenmyer is the liquid will boil over very easily so you really have to watch it. I've gone to a 5L flask to make 1 or 2L starters and the larger size has helped. I really want to get a Boiling Flask like Walt White had. I don't know if it would help with the boil overs but it would give me street cred.
Posted on 12/11/18 at 11:51 am to Zappas Stache
quote:
he only thing with an Erlenmyer is the liquid will boil over very easily so you really have to watch it
Even with Fermcaps?
quote:
I don't know if it would help with the boil overs but it would give me street cred.
Posted on 12/11/18 at 11:55 am to BugAC
quote:
Even with Fermcaps?
Yes....not as bad but you still have to watch it. And I don't like putting condom lubricant in my beer.
Posted on 12/11/18 at 12:14 pm to Zappas Stache
quote:
And I don't like putting condom lubricant in my beer.
Well you just aren't living right.
Posted on 12/11/18 at 12:16 pm to Zappas Stache
I generally do 4L starters so I've been using a 5L flask as well. You do have to watch it, even with foam control. I usually stand there as it's coming to a boil and as soon as I get a vigorous boil, I shut the fire off. Then I let it stand for 15 minutes and put it in the sink to cool. I'll admit I do cringe a little bit when I plunge near-boiling wort into cold tap water but I've never had an issue.
Posted on 12/11/18 at 2:31 pm to Zappas Stache
quote:a Florence flask? you know how i was told to remember Erlenmeyer flask are blocky like a man. and Florence flasks are curvy like..... you know.
I really want to get a Boiling Flask like Walt White had.
Posted on 12/11/18 at 2:32 pm to MountainTiger
quote:Why? you get a quality flask , these are designed to do this.
I do cringe a little bit when I plunge near-boiling wort into cold tap water but I've never had an issue.
Posted on 12/11/18 at 4:37 pm to Zappas Stache
I hope you have a permit for your flask
Posted on 12/11/18 at 9:30 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
a Florence flask?
I think Walt called it a boiling flask. And when I search "boiling flasks" I find them.....
Walt>>>>CarRamrod
Walt explaining different flasks
This post was edited on 12/11/18 at 9:34 pm
Posted on 12/12/18 at 7:26 am to Zappas Stache
Anyone use WLP644 Sach Brux Trois? I'm using this on my spruce kettle sour right now. But as i'm combing through some research on the strain, i find a lot of people are starting to use this on NEIPA's and many are winning medals with this. For those that don't know, this yeast was thought to be a brett strain for the longest time then after further lab analysis, it was confirmed it was, indeed, a sach strain. Ferm temp range is 70-85. Towards the higher end of the range, 78 and up, it is said to give off very fruity flavors and aromas.
FWIW, my research was spurned because my fermentation has stalled right now at about 75% attenuation (mash temp of 150). I've read in places that it ferments quick, but tends to slow after the initial ferm blast, but then kick right off again. I've also read that it can continue fermenting for 3 weeks. I'm at 12 days so far, and i still see some fermentation activity.
FWIW, my research was spurned because my fermentation has stalled right now at about 75% attenuation (mash temp of 150). I've read in places that it ferments quick, but tends to slow after the initial ferm blast, but then kick right off again. I've also read that it can continue fermenting for 3 weeks. I'm at 12 days so far, and i still see some fermentation activity.
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