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re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread
Posted on 8/7/15 at 8:35 am to LoneStarTiger
Posted on 8/7/15 at 8:35 am to LoneStarTiger
What's the better bittering hop in an IPA?
Bravo, Columbus, or Centennial?
Trying to fine tune my IPA. Right now i have Centennial as the bittering hop, but i think i'm going to change it to either Bravo or Columbus.
Bravo, Columbus, or Centennial?
Trying to fine tune my IPA. Right now i have Centennial as the bittering hop, but i think i'm going to change it to either Bravo or Columbus.
Posted on 8/7/15 at 8:46 am to BugAC
Oh those three, probably Columbus.
I use Magnum for the bittering addition in almost all of my beers. I buy it by the lb and use it across the board.
ETA: FWIW the hop extract that is used in IPAs like Pliny, Heady, Ghost is made from Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus. So you can't really go wrong with Columbus.
I use Magnum for the bittering addition in almost all of my beers. I buy it by the lb and use it across the board.
ETA: FWIW the hop extract that is used in IPAs like Pliny, Heady, Ghost is made from Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus. So you can't really go wrong with Columbus.
This post was edited on 8/7/15 at 9:02 am
Posted on 8/7/15 at 9:09 am to LSUGrad00
What would a columbus dry hop in a smaller amount add to a citra/amarillo dry hopped beer?
Here's my schedule
11 lbs 12.0 oz Pale Ale Malt 2-Row (Briess) (3.5 SRM) Grain 9 84.7 %
14.0 oz Crystal 30, 2-Row, (Great Western) (30.0 Grain 10 6.3 %
10.0 oz Acidulated (BestMälz) (1.5 SRM) Grain 11 4.5 %
10.0 oz Vienna (BestMälz) (4.1 SRM) Grain 12 4.5 %
1.00 oz Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Hop 13 49.2 IBUs
0.25 oz Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Hop 14 8.6 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 15 2.6 IBUs
0.50 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 16 3.5 IBUs
1.00 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 10. Hop 17 4.8 IBUs
1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 10.0 Hop 18 6.3 IBUs
1.0 pkg NorCal Ale #1 (GigaYeast #GY001) Yeast 19 -
1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 20 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 21 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Hop 22 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days Hop 23 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days Hop 24 0.0 IBUs
0.25 oz Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Hop 25 0.0 IBUs
Here's my schedule
11 lbs 12.0 oz Pale Ale Malt 2-Row (Briess) (3.5 SRM) Grain 9 84.7 %
14.0 oz Crystal 30, 2-Row, (Great Western) (30.0 Grain 10 6.3 %
10.0 oz Acidulated (BestMälz) (1.5 SRM) Grain 11 4.5 %
10.0 oz Vienna (BestMälz) (4.1 SRM) Grain 12 4.5 %
1.00 oz Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Hop 13 49.2 IBUs
0.25 oz Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Hop 14 8.6 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 15 2.6 IBUs
0.50 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 16 3.5 IBUs
1.00 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 10. Hop 17 4.8 IBUs
1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 10.0 Hop 18 6.3 IBUs
1.0 pkg NorCal Ale #1 (GigaYeast #GY001) Yeast 19 -
1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 20 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 21 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Hop 22 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days Hop 23 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days Hop 24 0.0 IBUs
0.25 oz Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Hop 25 0.0 IBUs
Posted on 8/7/15 at 9:25 am to BugAC
Of those I'd use Columbus because Pliny
I need to order some, actually. I just use Cascade for most of my beers, but that doesn't work when you need a big bittering addition
In sour news, my sour dreg starter culture developed a pellicle and tastes really nice. My table beer is developing a little sourness, but I'm worried there isn't enough left for the bugs to eat to get it good and funky since it's already at 1.001
I need to order some, actually. I just use Cascade for most of my beers, but that doesn't work when you need a big bittering addition
In sour news, my sour dreg starter culture developed a pellicle and tastes really nice. My table beer is developing a little sourness, but I'm worried there isn't enough left for the bugs to eat to get it good and funky since it's already at 1.001
Posted on 8/7/15 at 9:28 am to BugAC
I use Magnum. If I had to choose from those 3 I'd use Centennial. At what point in the boil are you adding bittering? 60 minutes? I have better luck keeping it at 30-40 minutes.
Posted on 8/7/15 at 9:30 am to BeerMoney
quote:
If I had to choose from those 3 I'd use Centennial. At what point in the boil are you adding bittering? 60 minutes? I have better luck keeping it at 30-40 minutes.
60 minute first wort addition
Then a 30 minute addition.
Posted on 8/8/15 at 11:12 am to BugAC
Attempting my first double brew day. Just added the hopshot to my IPA for the boil, and the porter is mashing.
Posted on 8/8/15 at 8:07 pm to BMoney
How'd it go B?
This post was edited on 8/8/15 at 8:18 pm
Posted on 8/8/15 at 8:41 pm to BMoney
quote:
double brew day
Does not compute
I mashed a farmhouse table beer yesterday and hope to boil it tomorrow... maybe pitch yeast on Wednesday?
Posted on 8/9/15 at 4:50 pm to rds dc
90 minute boil with an air temp of 104 and no shade!! Never again #30MinuteBoilLife
Posted on 8/9/15 at 6:27 pm to rds dc
My last brew was a 71 degree evening with a cool breeze from the north and no mosquitos. I don't miss the heat at all.
Posted on 8/9/15 at 7:45 pm to BottomlandBrew
I think I want to move to Montana. I'm sitting out soaking up sun and it's 90.
People here think it's hot.
People here think it's hot.
Posted on 8/10/15 at 8:42 am to s14suspense
quote:
How'd it go B?
It was good. A little more to deal with logistically, but I made it happen. Had to heat the sparge water for the second batch in a gumbo pot on the stove, while batch one was still on the propane burner. But timed everything beautifully and both are fermenting away. 6 hours for 2 beers isn't too bad. I should do this more often.
Posted on 8/10/15 at 9:01 am to BMoney
quote:
It was good. A little more to deal with logistically, but I made it happen. Had to heat the sparge water for the second batch in a gumbo pot on the stove, while batch one was still on the propane burner. But timed everything beautifully and both are fermenting away. 6 hours for 2 beers isn't too bad. I should do this more often.
I need you to teach me. My next 2 brews are an IPA and a Coffee Stout. But i don't think i could do both at one time. I feel at certain points in the brew process my undivided attention is needed. That and i don't think i have the equipment for it.
Question, so i'm seeing posts of you guys doing table beers. If i were to mash my IPA, and drain off my 7.25 gallons. Then run some more 170 temp water over my grain bed and collect another 3 gallons of that wort for a sort of table beer, could that work? Was thinking about this, and maybe single hopping the table beer with some new hops, or whatever is leftover in my freezer. Or, possibly lagering the "table" beer.
Posted on 8/10/15 at 9:57 am to BugAC
If the runoff has a high enough gravity that could work, I'd think. Something else you can do it make more than your 7.25 gallons, run off the extra amount over 7.25 and dilute it down to the preboil gravity you want for the table beer.
You may still run into a problem depending on the yeast you plan to use. Because I used dregs I mashed high, around 158 or so.
You may still run into a problem depending on the yeast you plan to use. Because I used dregs I mashed high, around 158 or so.
This post was edited on 8/10/15 at 10:00 am
Posted on 8/10/15 at 10:22 am to BugAC
quote:
I need you to teach me. My next 2 brews are an IPA and a Coffee Stout. But i don't think i could do both at one time. I feel at certain points in the brew process my undivided attention is needed. That and i don't think i have the equipment for it.
I batch sparge, and the pot I use to heat my sparge water is my old brew kettle that holds 7 1/2 gallons. Thanks to the magic of fermcaps, I was able to use that as my brew kettle for the second batch since the primary brew kettle was tied up with the first batch. So while the first batch was chilling, I was draining the mash tun and sparging the second batch to make efficient use of time. It just took a little foresight to figure out the logistics, but it wasn't bad at all.
Posted on 8/10/15 at 3:41 pm to BMoney
Quick question for bottling lagers.
I know most of you keg, so i may be talking to the ether here, but, when i'm calculating carb sugar, it wants the temp of the beer. What temperature do i input if my temperature is going from 32 at bottling, and will be stored at 65 degrees? 32 or 65? Also, let's assume the beer temp rises from 32 to 45/50 as i'm bottling, would i use that temp?
I know most of you keg, so i may be talking to the ether here, but, when i'm calculating carb sugar, it wants the temp of the beer. What temperature do i input if my temperature is going from 32 at bottling, and will be stored at 65 degrees? 32 or 65? Also, let's assume the beer temp rises from 32 to 45/50 as i'm bottling, would i use that temp?
This post was edited on 8/10/15 at 3:46 pm
Posted on 8/10/15 at 4:06 pm to BugAC
Why would beer temp have an impact on how much sugar you add?
Posted on 8/10/15 at 4:11 pm to Fratastic423
quote:
Why would beer temp have an impact on how much sugar you add?
residual CO2 leaving your beer at different temps. I did some googling and found an answer on homebrewtalk after i posted it here. It says whatever the highest temperature your beer got to after primary fermentation is the temp to calculate your priming sugar as CO2 being released increases at higher temps. I think this was a lager specific answer, and it makes sense. Higher the temp, faster the beer ferments and churns out more CO2.
Well, it holds true for both technically.
This post was edited on 8/10/15 at 4:12 pm
Posted on 8/10/15 at 4:22 pm to BugAC
You would think most of that CO2 would release when transferring to the bottling bucket or as the beer warms during bottling.
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