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re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread

Posted on 8/7/15 at 8:35 am to
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
53109 posts
Posted on 8/7/15 at 8:35 am to
What's the better bittering hop in an IPA?

Bravo, Columbus, or Centennial?

Trying to fine tune my IPA. Right now i have Centennial as the bittering hop, but i think i'm going to change it to either Bravo or Columbus.
Posted by LSUGrad00
Member since Dec 2003
2428 posts
Posted on 8/7/15 at 8:46 am to
Oh those three, probably Columbus.

I use Magnum for the bittering addition in almost all of my beers. I buy it by the lb and use it across the board.

ETA: FWIW the hop extract that is used in IPAs like Pliny, Heady, Ghost is made from Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus. So you can't really go wrong with Columbus.
This post was edited on 8/7/15 at 9:02 am
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
53109 posts
Posted on 8/7/15 at 9:09 am to
What would a columbus dry hop in a smaller amount add to a citra/amarillo dry hopped beer?

Here's my schedule

11 lbs 12.0 oz Pale Ale Malt 2-Row (Briess) (3.5 SRM) Grain 9 84.7 %
14.0 oz Crystal 30, 2-Row, (Great Western) (30.0 Grain 10 6.3 %
10.0 oz Acidulated (BestMälz) (1.5 SRM) Grain 11 4.5 %
10.0 oz Vienna (BestMälz) (4.1 SRM) Grain 12 4.5 %
1.00 oz Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Hop 13 49.2 IBUs
0.25 oz Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Hop 14 8.6 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 15 2.6 IBUs
0.50 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 16 3.5 IBUs
1.00 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 10. Hop 17 4.8 IBUs
1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 10.0 Hop 18 6.3 IBUs
1.0 pkg NorCal Ale #1 (GigaYeast #GY001) Yeast 19 -
1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 20 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days Hop 21 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Hop 22 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days Hop 23 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days Hop 24 0.0 IBUs
0.25 oz Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Hop 25 0.0 IBUs
Posted by LoneStarTiger
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
15964 posts
Posted on 8/7/15 at 9:25 am to
Of those I'd use Columbus because Pliny

I need to order some, actually. I just use Cascade for most of my beers, but that doesn't work when you need a big bittering addition

In sour news, my sour dreg starter culture developed a pellicle and tastes really nice. My table beer is developing a little sourness, but I'm worried there isn't enough left for the bugs to eat to get it good and funky since it's already at 1.001
Posted by BeerMoney
Baton Rouge
Member since Jul 2012
8437 posts
Posted on 8/7/15 at 9:28 am to
I use Magnum. If I had to choose from those 3 I'd use Centennial. At what point in the boil are you adding bittering? 60 minutes? I have better luck keeping it at 30-40 minutes.
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
53109 posts
Posted on 8/7/15 at 9:30 am to
quote:

If I had to choose from those 3 I'd use Centennial. At what point in the boil are you adding bittering? 60 minutes? I have better luck keeping it at 30-40 minutes.


60 minute first wort addition

Then a 30 minute addition.
Posted by BMoney
Baton Rouge
Member since Jan 2005
16290 posts
Posted on 8/8/15 at 11:12 am to
Attempting my first double brew day. Just added the hopshot to my IPA for the boil, and the porter is mashing.

Posted by s14suspense
Baton Rouge
Member since Mar 2007
14728 posts
Posted on 8/8/15 at 8:07 pm to
How'd it go B?
This post was edited on 8/8/15 at 8:18 pm
Posted by rds dc
Member since Jun 2008
19846 posts
Posted on 8/8/15 at 8:41 pm to
quote:

double brew day


Does not compute

I mashed a farmhouse table beer yesterday and hope to boil it tomorrow... maybe pitch yeast on Wednesday?

Posted by rds dc
Member since Jun 2008
19846 posts
Posted on 8/9/15 at 4:50 pm to
90 minute boil with an air temp of 104 and no shade!! Never again #30MinuteBoilLife
Posted by BottomlandBrew
Member since Aug 2010
27250 posts
Posted on 8/9/15 at 6:27 pm to
My last brew was a 71 degree evening with a cool breeze from the north and no mosquitos. I don't miss the heat at all.
Posted by LoneStarTiger
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
15964 posts
Posted on 8/9/15 at 7:45 pm to
I think I want to move to Montana. I'm sitting out soaking up sun and it's 90.

People here think it's hot.
Posted by BMoney
Baton Rouge
Member since Jan 2005
16290 posts
Posted on 8/10/15 at 8:42 am to
quote:

How'd it go B?


It was good. A little more to deal with logistically, but I made it happen. Had to heat the sparge water for the second batch in a gumbo pot on the stove, while batch one was still on the propane burner. But timed everything beautifully and both are fermenting away. 6 hours for 2 beers isn't too bad. I should do this more often.
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
53109 posts
Posted on 8/10/15 at 9:01 am to
quote:

It was good. A little more to deal with logistically, but I made it happen. Had to heat the sparge water for the second batch in a gumbo pot on the stove, while batch one was still on the propane burner. But timed everything beautifully and both are fermenting away. 6 hours for 2 beers isn't too bad. I should do this more often.


I need you to teach me. My next 2 brews are an IPA and a Coffee Stout. But i don't think i could do both at one time. I feel at certain points in the brew process my undivided attention is needed. That and i don't think i have the equipment for it.

Question, so i'm seeing posts of you guys doing table beers. If i were to mash my IPA, and drain off my 7.25 gallons. Then run some more 170 temp water over my grain bed and collect another 3 gallons of that wort for a sort of table beer, could that work? Was thinking about this, and maybe single hopping the table beer with some new hops, or whatever is leftover in my freezer. Or, possibly lagering the "table" beer.
Posted by LoneStarTiger
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
15964 posts
Posted on 8/10/15 at 9:57 am to
If the runoff has a high enough gravity that could work, I'd think. Something else you can do it make more than your 7.25 gallons, run off the extra amount over 7.25 and dilute it down to the preboil gravity you want for the table beer.

You may still run into a problem depending on the yeast you plan to use. Because I used dregs I mashed high, around 158 or so.
This post was edited on 8/10/15 at 10:00 am
Posted by BMoney
Baton Rouge
Member since Jan 2005
16290 posts
Posted on 8/10/15 at 10:22 am to
quote:

I need you to teach me. My next 2 brews are an IPA and a Coffee Stout. But i don't think i could do both at one time. I feel at certain points in the brew process my undivided attention is needed. That and i don't think i have the equipment for it.



I batch sparge, and the pot I use to heat my sparge water is my old brew kettle that holds 7 1/2 gallons. Thanks to the magic of fermcaps, I was able to use that as my brew kettle for the second batch since the primary brew kettle was tied up with the first batch. So while the first batch was chilling, I was draining the mash tun and sparging the second batch to make efficient use of time. It just took a little foresight to figure out the logistics, but it wasn't bad at all.
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
53109 posts
Posted on 8/10/15 at 3:41 pm to
Quick question for bottling lagers.

I know most of you keg, so i may be talking to the ether here, but, when i'm calculating carb sugar, it wants the temp of the beer. What temperature do i input if my temperature is going from 32 at bottling, and will be stored at 65 degrees? 32 or 65? Also, let's assume the beer temp rises from 32 to 45/50 as i'm bottling, would i use that temp?
This post was edited on 8/10/15 at 3:46 pm
Posted by Fratastic423
Baton Rouge
Member since Feb 2007
5990 posts
Posted on 8/10/15 at 4:06 pm to
Why would beer temp have an impact on how much sugar you add?
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
53109 posts
Posted on 8/10/15 at 4:11 pm to
quote:

Why would beer temp have an impact on how much sugar you add?


residual CO2 leaving your beer at different temps. I did some googling and found an answer on homebrewtalk after i posted it here. It says whatever the highest temperature your beer got to after primary fermentation is the temp to calculate your priming sugar as CO2 being released increases at higher temps. I think this was a lager specific answer, and it makes sense. Higher the temp, faster the beer ferments and churns out more CO2.

Well, it holds true for both technically.
This post was edited on 8/10/15 at 4:12 pm
Posted by LSUGrad00
Member since Dec 2003
2428 posts
Posted on 8/10/15 at 4:22 pm to
You would think most of that CO2 would release when transferring to the bottling bucket or as the beer warms during bottling.
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