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re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread
Posted on 4/13/15 at 1:23 pm to rbWarEagle
Posted on 4/13/15 at 1:23 pm to rbWarEagle
quote:
Trust me, I like the sound of less work, but I think I'm going to dry hop in the secondary just to see how it works for me. The supposed brewing gurus I read about all say something to the effect of "clear the beer before dry hopping".
By all means, if you like cleaning and sanitizing fermentors, have at it.
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Posted on 4/13/15 at 1:23 pm to BMoney
quote:
Might want to tell all the professional brewers this. No commercial brewers move their beer to another vessel to dry hop.
Oh... are they clearing the beer in any way before dry hopping, then (e.g., gelatin, cold crash, long post-fermentation sitting)? I'm asking out of complete ignorance. I appreciate your feedback.
Posted on 4/13/15 at 1:26 pm to Fratastic423
quote:
Ended up with a 29.5
It would be nice if the AHA would post the scores. Curious what my entries got, but particularly what the one that advanced got.
Who knows when I'll get the scoresheets from Nashville.
Posted on 4/13/15 at 1:26 pm to BMoney
quote:
Now, if you add your dry hops before your beer has reached FG, then the hop character could be affected.
I just read some interesting stuff on this from a "brew scientist" that did an AMA on reddit. He said something to the effect of "I wait until I'm 2-3 plato off and then add my dry hops". He says that allowing the yeast to slightly *oxygenate (*I think?) the hops added a favorable aromatic quality that you can't get from just dry hopping. I'll try to find the link if you're interested.
That being said, I won't be trying anything like that for a few years
Posted on 4/13/15 at 1:28 pm to rbWarEagle
quote:
I just read some interesting stuff on this from a "brew scientist" that did an AMA on reddit. He said something to the effect of "I wait until I'm 2-3 plato off and then add my dry hops". He says that allowing the yeast to slightly *oxygenate (*I think?) the hops added a favorable aromatic quality that you can't get from just dry hopping. I'll try to find the link if you're interested.
I think Firestone Walker does this with Double Jack. But they do 3 rounds of dry hopping, so who knows what kind of effect it has?
Posted on 4/13/15 at 1:29 pm to BMoney
Damn. I'd love to be able to do 3 rounds of dry hopping but my glass carboy has a narrow arse top. 
Posted on 4/13/15 at 1:37 pm to BMoney
quote:
Might want to tell all the professional brewers this. No commercial brewers move their beer to another vessel to dry hop.
They do have the ability to drop the yeast out of the bottom of the cone and or rouse the hops by bubbling CO2 up through the cone.
Posted on 4/13/15 at 1:38 pm to rbWarEagle
quote:
Damn. I'd love to be able to do 3 rounds of dry hopping but my glass carboy has a narrow arse top.
Another reason to just use buckets for fermentation. Toss the hops in and seal it back up.
Posted on 4/13/15 at 1:42 pm to s14suspense
quote:
They do have the ability to drop the yeast out of the bottom of the cone and or rouse the hops by bubbling CO2 up through the cone.
Ahh, that's what I was thinking. Makes sense.
Posted on 4/13/15 at 1:44 pm to BMoney
quote:
Another reason to just use buckets for fermentation. Toss the hops in and seal it back up.
Yep. Definitely need to pick up another bucket (or two). Along this line, do I need to worry about oxidation when racking from one bucket to the next (or carboy)? I guess not, since people open up the primary to measure grav, right?
Posted on 4/13/15 at 1:46 pm to rbWarEagle
quote:
Yep. Definitely need to pick up another bucket (or two). Along this line, do I need to worry about oxidation when racking from one bucket to the next (or carboy)? I guess not, since people open up the primary to measure grav, right?
The racking process is much more likely to introduce too much oxygen. Be gentle with that part.
Posted on 4/13/15 at 1:55 pm to s14suspense
quote:
The racking process is much more likely to introduce too much oxygen. Be gentle with that part.
Any specific techniques you'd recommend? Or just don't be an idiot?
Posted on 4/13/15 at 2:09 pm to BMoney
quote:
I think Firestone Walker does this with Double Jack.
Yeah, Matt Brynildson at FW has said he dry hops at about 1.020. This helps scrub the hops of the little bit of oxygen that is introduced at dry hopping and helps brighten the beer and allow for a longer shelf life. I've since adopted that technique and have been nothing less than impressed with the results. 3-5 days max on dry hops in my process as well.
And while we're on the dry hopping thing, I always use a paint strainer bag if I'm using hop pellets. It causes a mess for me at racking if I don't. I just dump them in fermenter if I'm using whole leaf.
Posted on 4/13/15 at 2:13 pm to rbWarEagle
quote:
Trust me, I like the sound of less work
this week I am making a hoppy wheat beer. Here is how the process will go (hopefully)
Primary for 5 days
add dry hops to fermenter for 5 days
cold crash
keg
drink
Posted on 4/13/15 at 2:16 pm to rbWarEagle
quote:
Any specific techniques you'd recommend? Or just don't be an idiot?
as long as your tube reaches close to the bottom of the fermenter, it's fine. You'll get a small amount of residual fermentation due to your yeast being stirred back up when you rack the beer. This will push out any oxygen you have left in the fermenter (whether it be bucket or carboy). just don't splash the wort and you are fine.
I will add, i had to get a new racking cane a few weeks ago because mine was sucking up air due to a crack in the racking cane. I could hear a hiss in the cane, but the beers turned out perfectly fine. It was a pretty old racking cane.
Posted on 4/13/15 at 2:17 pm to BottomlandBrew
quote:
dry hopping and helps brighten the beer and allow for a longer shelf life.
interesting...This is my only concern as of late. My last IPA faded very fast. I would say the beer was good for about 2 months before it went to shite.
This post was edited on 4/13/15 at 2:18 pm
Posted on 4/13/15 at 2:19 pm to BottomlandBrew
quote:
And while we're on the dry hopping thing, I always use a paint strainer bag if I'm using hop pellets. It causes a mess for me at racking if I don't. I just dump them in fermenter if I'm using whole leaf.
Awesome, that's exactly what I was going to do.
Posted on 4/13/15 at 2:20 pm to BugAC
quote:
as long as your tube reaches close to the bottom of the fermenter, it's fine. You'll get a small amount of residual fermentation due to your yeast being stirred back up when you rack the beer. This will push out any oxygen you have left in the fermenter (whether it be bucket or carboy). just don't splash the wort and you are fine.
Nice, good to know.
Posted on 4/13/15 at 2:21 pm to BottomlandBrew
quote:
Yeah, Matt Brynildson at FW has said he dry hops at about 1.020.
What's his finishing gravity? How long before complete fermentation is this? I might be missing something.
Posted on 4/13/15 at 2:25 pm to rbWarEagle
I might be misquoting that gravity, but it's essentially when 80-90% of fermentation is done.
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