Started By
Message

re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread

Posted on 4/12/15 at 12:19 pm to
Posted by LoneStarTiger
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
16502 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 12:19 pm to
Racking it to a secondary increases the risk for oxidation and would give you practically no benefit.

DO NOT RUN YOUR BEER THROUGH A STRAINER NOW.
That's a sure fire way to oxidize it.
Unless you're talking about using a filter or strainer of sorts on the end of your racking cane. That works ok.

When you transfer to a bottling bucket or a keg, if you can, cold crash it first, then just be careful when transferring it to avoid picking up sediment.
This post was edited on 4/12/15 at 12:23 pm
Posted by rbWarEagle
Member since Nov 2009
49999 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 12:29 pm to
quote:

Racking it to a secondary increases the risk for oxidation and would give you practically no benefit.



Damn. Well, I don't really have an easy way to cold crash at the moment. I'm a little concerned about using gelatin (I've seen some suggest this on other sites). Think it would be okay to cold crash with a big arse container and ice?

Also, when I do transfer to bottle, should I just transfer it to the glass carboy and go from there?
Posted by rbWarEagle
Member since Nov 2009
49999 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 12:30 pm to
quote:

Unless you're talking about using a filter or strainer of sorts on the end of your racking cane. That works ok.



I was talking about using a filter bag when I used the hop pellets. I'm not sure why that is worse than dumping them straight in. Could you expound on that?
Posted by LoneStarTiger
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
16502 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 12:31 pm to
Do you have a bottling bucket?
Posted by LoneStarTiger
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
16502 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 12:35 pm to
quote:


I was talking about using a filter bag when I used the hop pellets. I'm not sure why that is worse than dumping them straight in. Could you expound on that?


I'm sure that would work fine, but the more contact the pellets have with the beer the better.
Posted by rbWarEagle
Member since Nov 2009
49999 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 12:36 pm to
quote:

Do you have a bottling bucket?



No, just a primary ferm bucket and a glass carboy, at the moment.
Posted by LoneStarTiger
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
16502 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 12:37 pm to
You're gonna need a bottling bucket
Posted by rbWarEagle
Member since Nov 2009
49999 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 12:43 pm to
quote:

You're gonna need a bottling bucket



Excuse my inexperience, but why can't you bottle from the carboy? I don't mind buying another bucket, I'm just trying to figure this all out.
Posted by LoneStarTiger
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
16502 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 12:46 pm to
A bottling bucket has a spigot on the bottom. You connect tubing to that and to a bottling wand. Rather than trying to siphon beer out of your carboy, you open the valve and use the wand to control the outflow into the bottles.
Posted by rbWarEagle
Member since Nov 2009
49999 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 12:56 pm to
Oh, I see.


Will the beer has a more yeast-like flavor when you don't secondary?
Posted by LoneStarTiger
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
16502 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 12:58 pm to
You won't likely get any off or unwanted flavors from not using a secondary unless you leave it in the primary for months.
Posted by s14suspense
Baton Rouge
Member since Mar 2007
15814 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 12:59 pm to
Not at all. Racking to secondary isn't really necessary at all.
Posted by rbWarEagle
Member since Nov 2009
49999 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 1:10 pm to
quote:

You won't likely get any off or unwanted flavors from not using a secondary unless you leave it in the primary for months.



quote:

Not at all. Racking to secondary isn't really necessary at all.



Okay. Am I incorrect in assuming that the ferm bucket isn't completely air-tight? If it isn't completely air-tight, it could be losing the protection from the CO2 layer, no?

Also, since I want to dry-hop, wouldn't I want to separate the beer from as much of the dead yeast as possible so it doesn't produce off-flavors with the hops (using a secondary)?

*I'd like to reiterate that I really appreciate the help and just want to make sure I get this right. I know you guys know your stuff.
Posted by iLikebeerandfootball
baton rouge
Member since Dec 2013
8 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 1:17 pm to
Creamer, I am storing them at 70 degrees and they are not exposed to light. They are in a cardboard box behind a dresser.

Thanks to everyone else for the advice. I will try the corn syrup next time.
Posted by LoneStarTiger
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
16502 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 1:26 pm to
quote:

Not at all. Racking to secondary isn't really necessary at all.


I'm racking my beer to a secondary today

It's gonna be in there 6-9 months though
Posted by HungryFisherman
Houston,TX / BR, LA
Member since Nov 2013
2690 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 1:41 pm to
If it helps, we just added dry hop pellets to the primary, and we won't be using a secondary. The fermentation is beginning its third week. We'll keg it after a week. We're pretty new, so this isn't a seasoned vet talking, but from our research this should be perfectly fine.
Posted by LoneStarTiger
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
16502 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 3:26 pm to
Racked my brown Abbey ale that's to be soured. Tastes nice. Fermented down to 1.024 after 12 days or so. Will add brett soon.
Posted by rbWarEagle
Member since Nov 2009
49999 posts
Posted on 4/13/15 at 9:11 am to
quote:

If it helps, we just added dry hop pellets to the primary, and we won't be using a secondary. The fermentation is beginning its third week. We'll keg it after a week. We're pretty new, so this isn't a seasoned vet talking, but from our research this should be perfectly fine.



The simple fact is, there are many variations, it seems. I think I'm going to rack to a secondary for a week, dry hop it and leave it for another week and then transfer to a bottling bucket, prime, and bottle for 2-3 weeks.

For IPA/DIPAs that you want to taste fresh (hop-wise), is 3 weeks in the bottle sufficient or too much?
Posted by LoneStarTiger
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
16502 posts
Posted on 4/13/15 at 9:19 am to
3 weeks is enough, but you have to drink it all before it gets to 5 weeks and it fades
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
57779 posts
Posted on 4/13/15 at 9:27 am to
quote:

The simple fact is, there are many variations, it seems. I think I'm going to rack to a secondary for a week, dry hop it and leave it for another week and then transfer to a bottling bucket, prime, and bottle for 2-3 weeks.

For IPA/DIPAs that you want to taste fresh (hop-wise), is 3 weeks in the bottle sufficient or too much?


Here's how i ferment with IPA's. Ferment in the primary for 8-10 days. Add dry hops to secondary, rack my beer into the secondary on top of the hops and dry hop for 5-7 days. At the end of the dry hop period, transfer to bottling bucket and bottle.

first pageprev pagePage 298 of 443Next pagelast page

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on X, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookXInstagram