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re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread
Posted on 8/6/13 at 9:46 am to s14suspense
Posted on 8/6/13 at 9:46 am to s14suspense
quote:
What you doing these days? Full boils?
Yes, thanks to fermcap drops.
I'm still using ice baths to get temps down, then pitch a few hours later.
0
Posted on 8/6/13 at 9:48 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
3. kegging
Closely followed by fermentation temp control. What's your fermentation setup like right now?
Posted on 8/6/13 at 9:51 am to s14suspense
quote:
What's your fermentation setup like right now?
dark closet. stays 72-75 in the summer. Been too lazy to try a water bath to control temps.
probably not a coincidence that my best beer to date was brewed in the winter and the closet stayed around 65.
Posted on 8/6/13 at 9:52 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
which "upgrade" would you choose?
quote:
3. kegging
And not even close.
Posted on 8/6/13 at 9:54 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
dark closet. stays 72-75 in the summer. Been too lazy to try a water bath to control temps.
probably not a coincidence that my best beer to date was brewed in the winter and the closet stayed around 65.
Yeah, I'd try to find a dorm fridge or something that'll let you control temps. Water bath worked pretty good for me while I was doing that.
quote:
Yes, thanks to fermcap drops.
You ain't kidding. 7.5 gallons in my 8 gallon pot would be impossible without it.
This post was edited on 8/6/13 at 9:56 am
Posted on 8/6/13 at 9:54 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
I am planning my next upgrade, and it will be one of these three options:
I went kegging, fermentation, all-grain, with partial mashes thrown in between kegging and fermentation.
If I did it over, I'd go fermentation, kegging, and then all-grain. Fermentation control is the #1 thing you can do to make better beer tomorrow. All-grain and kegging will not necessarily mean better beer. Controlling your temps and pitching rate will.
Posted on 8/6/13 at 9:55 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
1. the ability to control fermentation temps
2. move to all-grain
1, then 2. I thought you were doing all-grain now.
The ability to control ferm temps is vital, IMO. And you can still make good beer doing extract. Look on craigslist for a freezer, and i use the johnson digital controller.
All-grain, IMO, makes your beer really stand-out from extract brews. Some homebrews you drink, you can tell are homebrews, all-grain can eliminate that, and give you commercial quality great beer.
My upgrades have been:
Extract - Swamp Cooler - Fermentation fridge with temp controller - Yeast starters - 9.5 gallon brewpot - All-grain Brewing.
The next steps for me are Kegging, then 10 gallon boils.
This post was edited on 8/6/13 at 9:59 am
Posted on 8/6/13 at 10:00 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
I have a question for y'all. I am planning my next upgrade, and it will be one of these three options:
1. the ability to control fermentation temps
2. move to all-grain
3. kegging
I'd go for #1, then #3, then #2.
You're right that kegging is a luxury and not necessary for making better beer, but it's so much easier than bottling.
Posted on 8/6/13 at 10:09 am to BottomlandBrew
quote:
Fermentation control is the #1 thing you can do to make better beer tomorrow. All-grain and kegging will not necessarily mean better beer. Controlling your temps and pitching rate will.
This...
Posted on 8/6/13 at 10:11 am to LoneStarTiger
I'll add the caveat that I have a room that I can keep at a consistent 66-69 degrees, which works well for the beers I make. I'll eventually get a fermentation fridge, but that's on the backburner since I can pretty much control the temp as it is. If I didn't, I'd probably try the swamp cooler method first to control temp. Having the ability to keg is a luxury, but one I will not do without any longer.
Posted on 8/6/13 at 10:30 am to BMoney
I'm guessing there wouldn't be a problem using a temperature controller on a fridge? Not sure I really want to go with a chest type freezer. Seems like a pain in the arse to put carboys and eventually kegs in and out of.
Posted on 8/6/13 at 10:30 am to BMoney
quote:
I'll add the caveat that I have a room that I can keep at a consistent 66-69 degrees, which works well for the beers I make. I'll eventually get a fermentation fridge, but that's on the backburner since I can pretty much control the temp as it is.
Yeah, I wouldn't be worried about it at all. You could probably get things real cold with a swamp cooler.
Posted on 8/6/13 at 10:31 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
if I can pick up a garage fridge or chest freezer on the cheap (real cheap),
I thought I'd add that in my experience lifting full carboys in and out of the chest freezer is awkward.
When I ferment in a chest freezer I'll put my better bottle carboy in a milk crate. It's a perfect fit and makes it much easier to get a carboy in and out of the chest freezer.
Posted on 8/6/13 at 10:32 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
I'm guessing there wouldn't be a problem using a temperature controller on a fridge?
Thats what I use. I use a digital Johnson Controller.
LINK
Posted on 8/6/13 at 10:38 am to Zappas Stache
quote:
Thats what I use. I use a digital Johnson Controller.
Same here.
Question on that. Mine was working perfectly until i unplugged it one day. Currently, i have it set at 68, with the differential at 3 degrees. Yet, when i go check it in the garage, i see the temps are down to 59. It should kick off at 65. Is the temps still dropping because it's working hard to get it down to 65, and after the compressor shuts off, it continues to cool a bit further?
I have the probe wrapped in one of those cool packs they send you with your yeast.
I have the current settings (not fermenting anything right now)
SP - 68 (temperature setting)
dif - 3 (differential. Where you want the compressor to kick on, and kick off in terms of degrees difference from your SP)
Asd - 12 (override on your compressor so you don't wear it out. If your compressor keeps kicking on every 5 minutes, this override (if set to 12) would only kick on in 12 minute intervals. However, if your compressor takes longer than 12 minutes to kick on, and you have more stable temps, it will not kick on)
Off - 0
SF - 1
ETA: added descriptions of those settings for those interested in getting the temp controller.
This post was edited on 8/6/13 at 10:48 am
Posted on 8/6/13 at 10:48 am to Zappas Stache
quote:
Thats what I use. I use a digital Johnson Controller.
Should have mine delivered today. Bought it for my cellaring fridge.
Guess I'll need another one when I start brewing.
Posted on 8/6/13 at 10:48 am to BugAC
quote:
I have the current settings (not fermenting anything right now)
SP - 68
dif - 3
Asd - 12
Off - 0
SF - 1
I would set your dif = 1 and ASd = 1. Thats what I have. Set the Asd higher only if its kicking on and off every minute or less. The thermal mass of your beer in the fridge will keep the temp stable and not cause the refridge to cycle to fast. I'm not sure about the cool pack. Have you used this when things were working? I just tape the probe to the outside of the carboy.
Posted on 8/6/13 at 10:48 am to BugAC
quote:
Currently, i have it set at 68, with the differential at 3 degrees
I have no answer to your question, however I wanted to point out that you probably could go a little cooler on the temp. In an air environment the fermenting wort is going to be a good 6-7 degrees warmer than the surrounding them. At least in my experience.
Posted on 8/6/13 at 10:55 am to Zappas Stache
one thing I worry with is that I will have to keep the freezer in the garage, and it gets hot as frick in there. seems like it would have to kick on and off a lot dealing with the extremely high temps.
Posted on 8/6/13 at 10:58 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
one thing I worry with is that I will have to keep the freezer in the garage, and it gets hot as frick in there. seems like it would have to kick on and off a lot dealing with the extremely high temps.
Eh, it'll probably be fine. I'm using a donated stand up freezer in my storage room as a freezer and it spent many years outside in Louisiana on a temp controller as a beer cellar.
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