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Chimney leaked last night

Posted on 10/5/21 at 11:43 am
Posted by AUjim
America
Member since Dec 2012
3766 posts
Posted on 10/5/21 at 11:43 am
Update: added pics to my post at bottom of page 1-after the recaulk absolutely didnt solve the problem.

Woke up to a real nice water stain above my fireplace.

Called out the roof guy and he says the roof is good but that the seams between my hardi board siding and trim on the chimney have separated from settling. Showed me the pics from up on the roof - makes sense to me.

Aside from going up on the roof every year and inspecting and recaulking, is there any product that I could have used to prevent this? House is 7 years old.
This post was edited on 1/9/22 at 8:14 am
Posted by Chasin The Tiger
Lake Travis, TX
Member since Sep 2012
620 posts
Posted on 10/5/21 at 11:50 am to
Hard to know without a picture, but there should be flashing around the chimney to prevent water from getting in. We did a standing seam metal roof and there is metal flashing all around the chimney that is caulked.
Posted by AUjim
America
Member since Dec 2012
3766 posts
Posted on 10/5/21 at 12:27 pm to
LINK

Imgur link to chimney
This post was edited on 10/5/21 at 12:31 pm
Posted by Chasin The Tiger
Lake Travis, TX
Member since Sep 2012
620 posts
Posted on 10/5/21 at 12:49 pm to
Ah ok I see. The siding should be re-caulked against the trim. Use a good elastic caulk like big stretch and apply it on thick. I would be interested to know why you're getting a leak even if water gets behind the siding. You should have house wrap behind that siding that would prevent water from infiltrating. If this is a second story then there should be flashing at the bottom of the siding that would shed that water.
Posted by Illegal Amigo
504
Member since Jan 2010
79 posts
Posted on 10/5/21 at 2:21 pm to
I've had mine leak at the chimney cap. Is yours flat so that water ends up puddling up and sitting on it?
Posted by Hamma1122
Member since Sep 2016
21837 posts
Posted on 10/5/21 at 8:07 pm to
Must be caulked every 3-5 years
Posted by halleburton
Member since Dec 2009
1600 posts
Posted on 10/5/21 at 8:15 pm to
In theory that picture could show the problem. As mentioned above, there should be house wrap/tyvek behind the hardie (possibly 2 layers in this case since its on a corner) which suggests another point of origin. Wish he'd taken pics of the chimney where it meets the roof on all sides.
This post was edited on 10/5/21 at 8:21 pm
Posted by dragginass
Member since Jan 2013
3157 posts
Posted on 10/5/21 at 9:55 pm to
Whatever substructure/sheathing that is behind the Hardie should be flashed to the roof. Water intruding at that trim intersection should not be making it's way inside.

Caulking should almost never be the only thing preventing water intrusion. If failed caulking allows water entry you have the failure of a secondary assembly as well.
Posted by baldona
Florida
Member since Feb 2016
23316 posts
Posted on 10/6/21 at 6:58 am to
quote:

Caulking should almost never be the only thing preventing water intrusion. If failed caulking allows water entry you have the failure of a secondary assembly as well.


This. And as said above don’t need to do a yearly inspection but yeah every 3-5 years to inspect the caulking would be safe I think. That’s some significant and consistent separation though, they didn’t apply enough caulk imo but it may not have helped. Fairly quick, easy, and cheap job to re caulk that.
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
19332 posts
Posted on 10/6/21 at 7:39 am to
Get some gray silicone caulk and use that since it is very flexible and would be better than regular caulk in that situation.

Like someone mentioned too, it should be flashed to not allow water penetration in the first place.
This post was edited on 10/6/21 at 7:41 am
Posted by TU Rob
Birmingham
Member since Nov 2008
13320 posts
Posted on 10/6/21 at 8:27 am to
Happened to my house about 10 years ago. Our house isn't your typical roofline, and looking at it from the road it appears to be a 1 story house. Shingled roof going up to a peak, with the walk in attic space under that roof. But on the back side, there is a second floor over the back half of the house, and it has rolled roofing on that. Of course the chimney is right at the peak where it changes from shingles to rolled, and some flashing needed to be replaced and sealed. The repairman used some sort of tar to seal it when he replaced the metal flashing, and no problems since then. I get it checked every year when the guy I call to clean my gutters comes. He cleans the gutters and roof of pine needles, tightens up any loose spots in the gutters, and inspects the shingles, chimney, and back roof.
Posted by Harlan County USA
Member since Sep 2021
731 posts
Posted on 10/6/21 at 2:09 pm to
I'm posting a tech drawing from the NRCA Steep Slope Roofing Manual for you that shows how your chimney should be detailed. I've been a roofing contractor since '95, mostly all commercial/industrial low slope roofs, metal, and occasional shingles. Never residential but the specs are the same.

You absolutely have to maintain Hardie siding. Folks think they'll install it and never have to worry about it again and that's just not accurate. Inspect it once a year. Clean, caulk, and paint when you need to.

There should be a house wrap behind the siding. The house wrap should come down and overlap the roof to wall counterflashing. If your caulk cracks the wrap sheds the water down onto the roof behind your siding. Something is wrong behind your siding for it to leak. A permanent repair would be to take off the siding and investigate the issue, make repairs, then reinstall siding. Cheap way out is to keep caulking. Good luck.


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Posted by White Bear
AT WORK
Member since Jul 2014
17213 posts
Posted on 10/6/21 at 2:26 pm to
quote:

You should have house wrap behind that siding that would prevent water from infiltrating.
You’d think, but neither my chimney nor second story dormer had wrap before I added it when I replaced the siding earlier this year. Damn jake legs.
This post was edited on 10/6/21 at 2:28 pm
Posted by awestruck
Member since Jan 2015
13234 posts
Posted on 10/6/21 at 7:15 pm to
For this application there's several better caulks than silicon.
Posted by Harlan County USA
Member since Sep 2021
731 posts
Posted on 10/6/21 at 7:30 pm to
We use different urethanes. Never silicone.
Posted by BeerMoney
Baton Rouge
Member since Jul 2012
8785 posts
Posted on 10/7/21 at 8:53 pm to
Same thing happened to us after 6 years.

Actually this thread was pretty informative. The roofers I hired replaced the siding and caulked but I think they fricked up the wrap underneath. I had to reapply caulk when they wouldn’t come back after the roof still leaked. It isn’t leaking at the moment but will need annual inspection.

If you do get a repair done, Don’t pay for the repair until you’ve had a few hard rains to confirm it’s fixed. Even supposedly reputable roofers won’t come back. Don’t call cypress roofing in gonzales.
Posted by awestruck
Member since Jan 2015
13234 posts
Posted on 10/8/21 at 11:39 am to
quote:

Don’t pay for the repair until y
quote:


Posted by BeerMoney
Baton Rouge
Member since Jul 2012
8785 posts
Posted on 10/8/21 at 7:33 pm to
Yeah man I deserve that. You live and you learn right? I mean this contractor seems legit. From my home town, they are local, they have god first all over their marketing. They'll straight frick you. Don't....Trust....Anyone.
Posted by AUjim
America
Member since Dec 2012
3766 posts
Posted on 1/9/22 at 8:11 am to
Update: you all notice anything wrong with this? This is the cricket between the chimney and roof after pulling up some shingles to investigate.

LINK to photo 1
This post was edited on 1/9/22 at 8:15 am
Posted by wickowick
Head of Island
Member since Dec 2006
46269 posts
Posted on 1/9/22 at 10:00 am to
Let me help you, all you need to do is click the photo, hit the copy button and then hit the img button in the TD post page and you get your photos to post.









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