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Started By
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OT mechanics, DIY'ers. Ever diagnose a freon leak in your vehicle?
Posted on 8/7/17 at 12:36 pm
Posted on 8/7/17 at 12:36 pm
I was out there this weekend with the UV light and yellow goggles and didn't see shite. Toyota SUV and ac compressor is at the bottom of the engine of course... I tried to follow the pressure lines but ultimately got frustrated and quit.
Posted on 8/7/17 at 12:39 pm to The Mick
Go out there at night and do it. Works way better.
Posted on 8/7/17 at 12:45 pm to The Mick
No clue on the leak help, in my limited experience once you have a leak you usually have something that broke and basically you need to replace the whole AC system. Its a sealed system, unless you jolted something like a connection loose (very unlikely) then chances are something cracked.
If it uses a dryer, the bag in there will bust and get little chards of crap all through your AC system that need cleaned out. I think what happens a lot is those little chards of dryer crap get in your compressor and cause it to malfunction or somewhere else in your system that causes a major pressure issue that then causes something to blow out.
You can get a complete rebuild kit that includes your Compressor, Dryer, condensor, oraface tube, o-rings, etc. for around $200 bucks. Then you get yourself one of those R-134A refrigerant bottles with the gauge on it, you will probably need a second bottle. You can replace your whole AC system except for the tubes and hoses that don't need replacing anyway for like $250. I've done that 3 times, not perfect but it works great and lasted over 2 years each time.
If it uses a dryer, the bag in there will bust and get little chards of crap all through your AC system that need cleaned out. I think what happens a lot is those little chards of dryer crap get in your compressor and cause it to malfunction or somewhere else in your system that causes a major pressure issue that then causes something to blow out.
You can get a complete rebuild kit that includes your Compressor, Dryer, condensor, oraface tube, o-rings, etc. for around $200 bucks. Then you get yourself one of those R-134A refrigerant bottles with the gauge on it, you will probably need a second bottle. You can replace your whole AC system except for the tubes and hoses that don't need replacing anyway for like $250. I've done that 3 times, not perfect but it works great and lasted over 2 years each time.
This post was edited on 8/7/17 at 12:49 pm
Posted on 8/7/17 at 1:02 pm to The Mick
The dye and uv light has always worked great for me.
Posted on 8/7/17 at 1:14 pm to TSLG
quote:I saw a bunch of different stuff but couldn't tell what was paint/markings and what was possibly Freon to be honest.
The dye and uv light has always worked great for me.
Posted on 8/7/17 at 1:22 pm to The Mick
Was clear as day when I tried it with UV. Was coming home out of my compressor. I changed out the compressor and dryer and it's been working great ever since (3+ years). I purchased a vacuum pump as well to help with the job.
Posted on 8/7/17 at 1:31 pm to The Mick
How old is the vehicle and what makes you think there is a leak bad enough to show the UV dye? Most A/C systems will have some amount of leakage and will need to be topped off periodically.
Posted on 8/7/17 at 1:32 pm to CoolHand
What part of the compressor was it leaking from?
Posted on 8/7/17 at 1:33 pm to Clames
quote:2008. It went thru two 12 oz cans of Freon in about 7 days.
How old is the vehicle and what makes you think there is a leak bad enough to show the UV dye?
Posted on 8/7/17 at 1:45 pm to The Mick
Find a good shop near you. Trust me.
Posted on 8/7/17 at 2:23 pm to cajuncarguy
quote:Eventually I will but trying to save the grand minimum I'm expecting it to cost.
Find a good shop near you. Trust me.
Posted on 8/7/17 at 2:27 pm to cajuncarguy
During the 7 days with freon, did you smell any in the cabin?
There is a coil in the dash on the passenger side that has leaked in my yota before...I'd target that since you couldn't find it with the UV inspection
I'd also target the compressor
There is a coil in the dash on the passenger side that has leaked in my yota before...I'd target that since you couldn't find it with the UV inspection
I'd also target the compressor
This post was edited on 8/7/17 at 2:30 pm
Posted on 8/7/17 at 2:41 pm to The Mick
Fought this recently. My leak was actually the low side Schrader valve, about a can a week. Tip - screw off the cap and put a water balloon over it. Replacing that valve is easy, just need the small tool and a new valve (plus a couple cans of Freon). But, just try tightening it first
Posted on 8/7/17 at 2:48 pm to geauxnc0308
I also found a leaking pressure/cycling switch on the accumulator. It was black plastic with an aluminum band crimped around it. I had put a whole can of 5-shots of UV dye. Got no UV dye out of it, presumably because it's the highest point in the system. Soapy water found it though
This post was edited on 8/7/17 at 2:53 pm
Posted on 8/7/17 at 3:08 pm to Tigeralum2008
quote:Not at all, no smell whatsoever.
During the 7 days with freon, did you smell any in the cabin?
Posted on 8/7/17 at 3:10 pm to geauxnc0308
quote:Tighten what, the Schrader valve? Is that the low pressure one or high pressure one or both?
But, just try tightening it first
PS - I inspected both valves with their caps off and didn't see any sign of a leak.
This post was edited on 8/7/17 at 3:12 pm
Posted on 8/7/17 at 3:24 pm to The Mick
replace the pressure switch and that should fix it
as for general info: the light needs time to get hot, just because it lights up its not ready right away, after it gets hot for 5 minutes or so things with dye glow super bright.
if you don't see the leak then it may be up under the dash or inside it as in the evaporator core.
unfortunately if its the evaporator then the way they build cars today the whole dash, and I mean the whole dash, usually has to be stripped out down to the firewall to replace it.
if its a small leak just add Freon until fall, if it needs it every month or sooner then just bring it in to a dealer and let them tell you what is leaking. most dealers only charge $75-$100 diagnostic fee to find a problem and quote a repair cost for it
as for general info: the light needs time to get hot, just because it lights up its not ready right away, after it gets hot for 5 minutes or so things with dye glow super bright.
if you don't see the leak then it may be up under the dash or inside it as in the evaporator core.
unfortunately if its the evaporator then the way they build cars today the whole dash, and I mean the whole dash, usually has to be stripped out down to the firewall to replace it.
if its a small leak just add Freon until fall, if it needs it every month or sooner then just bring it in to a dealer and let them tell you what is leaking. most dealers only charge $75-$100 diagnostic fee to find a problem and quote a repair cost for it
This post was edited on 8/7/17 at 3:28 pm
Posted on 8/7/17 at 3:29 pm to keakar
quote:Where is the pressure switch located, on the compressor or elsewhere?
replace the pressure switch and that should fix it
Posted on 8/7/17 at 4:13 pm to The Mick
quote:Definitely a leak.
It went thru two 12 oz cans of Freon in about 7 days.
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