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re: What tire and pressure do you run on your road bike?
Posted on 6/6/16 at 3:36 pm to KG6
Posted on 6/6/16 at 3:36 pm to KG6
quote:
To the others running tubulars, do you really find a big difference? I see that on other websites geared toward bike geeks who are worried about the ridiculous small stuff. But to the average cycling enthusiast, are they that much better? And if I was running them in a triathlon, how much of a pain is it to deal with a flat. Can I throw on a spare and not worry about the tire rolling off the rim since I didn't get a professional glue job? I can find race rims much cheaper in tubie rims, but never rode them before.
trade-offs for sure.
i use the 'glue tape' for my tubulars and it couldn't be any easier. just peel the double-sided tape and put it on the rim and then 'pop' the tubular (inflated to like 20 psi) on. if its not perfectly centered as you air it up it will drop into the valley and seat itself correctly.
in the rare event of a blowout during a group ride, you can actually peel it off and assuming you have a spare tubular in your pack, stick the new one on the existing/residual tape/glue. you'll get home just fine.
during a race, it doesn't matter because you should have a spare set of wheels in the support truck. if you flat and can't hot-swap a wheel your race is over regardless of whether you're running a tubular or clincher.
eta having said all that, i'm much more likely to pull out the bike with the clinchers for group rides because let's be honest, clinchers are easier to fix flats on the road than tubulars. tubulars are useful for hardcore training or races.
This post was edited on 6/6/16 at 3:44 pm
1
Posted on 6/6/16 at 3:40 pm to MrSmith
Conti Grand Prix 700x23 @120psi
Posted on 6/6/16 at 4:35 pm to Kingpenm3
With that size of tire, the more air pressure you run the more your nuts feel every crack in the pavement.
I have 25.5 and run around 110. the max recommended is 120, but my boys feel pretty bruised at 120.
eta: I weigh 225
I have 25.5 and run around 110. the max recommended is 120, but my boys feel pretty bruised at 120.
eta: I weigh 225
This post was edited on 6/6/16 at 4:37 pm
Posted on 6/6/16 at 4:48 pm to CAD703X
So yall talked me out of the gatorskins, but I couldn't commit to the 4000's. I compromised with the "4 seasons". Not nearly as good rolling resistance as the 4000's, but seem to be better than the gatorskins in almost every way. I do ride in the wet a decent bit, so hopefully these will be a good fit.
(real quick), I shouldn't need to replace my tubes to run the new tires and run them at higher psi's eh?
Nice site will rolling resistance comparisons:
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews
(real quick), I shouldn't need to replace my tubes to run the new tires and run them at higher psi's eh?
Nice site will rolling resistance comparisons:
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews
Posted on 6/6/16 at 5:00 pm to Kingpenm3
PSI depends on width of tire, weight, and quality of road you are riding. With that said, I'm usually somewhere between 65psi (28c tubeless tires) to 95psi (TT race on a quality road).
Posted on 6/6/16 at 5:02 pm to ssgrice
quote:
With that size of tire, the more air pressure you run the more your nuts feel every crack in the pavement.
I have 25.5 and run around 110. the max recommended is 120, but my boys feel pretty bruised at 120.
eta: I weigh 225
1. at 225 you should have them at max PSI because you are much more likely to pinch flat with that much weight if you hit a pothole or crack in the road.
2. are you wearing shorts with a chamois?
3. lowering your tire PSI is a terrible idea to avoid a stiff ride. if that's the problem you are probably riding an AL bike which is going to transfer every shock throughout your body. consider replacing your bike frame with steel, carbon or TI.
This post was edited on 6/6/16 at 5:03 pm
Posted on 6/6/16 at 5:03 pm to KG6
quote:
To the others running tubulars, do you really find a big difference
I prefer tubulars for racing and yes I think there's a difference.
quote:
But to the average cycling enthusiast, are they that much better?
Probably not but I bought my carbon rims when tubulars were the only option. I'd probably go with clinchers if I bought carbon rims today. Replacing and inner tube is way cheaper than replacing a tubular tire even though I believe a tubular tire can take the debris better.
quote:
And if I was running them in a triathlon, how much of a pain is it to deal with a flat.
*knocks on wood*
Depends on the length of the race and if you have an all or nothing attitude.
quote:
Can I throw on a spare and not worry about the tire rolling off the rim since I didn't get a professional glue job?
*knocks on wood*
I've never had that problem. I currently have mine cemented but before I've run tape with plenty of mileage and years.
quote:
I can find race rims much cheaper in tubie rims, but never rode them before.
depends on the model rim but when you take in the fact of a little more expensive tire, a shop guy to glue it, more expensive to replace than a tube, etc. Or just being a little more headache to change. Not much difference.
Posted on 6/6/16 at 5:08 pm to Cdawg
i'm surprised there's more than 1 of us on here with real-world experience on tubulars. eta hi mung. i know your arse is stalking this thread.
This post was edited on 6/6/16 at 5:10 pm
Posted on 6/6/16 at 5:36 pm to CAD703X
quote:
ontinental gran prix clinchers 120 psi
This. Grand Prix's are the only way to go.
Posted on 6/6/16 at 5:46 pm to CAD703X
quote:
tubulars.
I like the ride and feel. I just went from a Conti Competition for years to a Michelin Pro 4. That Michelin is real smooth. I actually have to admit I like it. It was an emergency replacement. I just may stick with it.
For clinchers I've been riding Conti grand Prix 4000. They've been OK so far but somebody posted S-works. I Think the S-works Pro Mondo now Turbo is a great tire.
As far as PSI on tires, for me it depends on the roads I'm about to ride and the temperature.
This post was edited on 6/6/16 at 5:49 pm
Posted on 6/6/16 at 6:00 pm to Cdawg
While I've got the attention of the cycling world...
Lately I've developed lower back pain while I ride. I feel like I've messed with every adjustable demension on the bike, I feel great when I'm riding, but the lower back pain shows up on most rides these days.
By all suggested measures my seat is at a correct height, I have a small 5 degree forward saddle tilt, my kneecap is above my clip at 3 o'clock, my bars are tilted back in a very neutral position to accept any weight I place on them comfortably.
At first I adjusted things so that I was more upright, but then I found that I was just more hunchbacked. So I stretched things back out and my position feels really good, back feels straight, but still get the back pain.
Any tips? Or do I just need more time to get the back adjusted to riding? Been road riding for about 6 months, riding more and more lately as the weather has cleaned up. TIA.
Lately I've developed lower back pain while I ride. I feel like I've messed with every adjustable demension on the bike, I feel great when I'm riding, but the lower back pain shows up on most rides these days.
By all suggested measures my seat is at a correct height, I have a small 5 degree forward saddle tilt, my kneecap is above my clip at 3 o'clock, my bars are tilted back in a very neutral position to accept any weight I place on them comfortably.
At first I adjusted things so that I was more upright, but then I found that I was just more hunchbacked. So I stretched things back out and my position feels really good, back feels straight, but still get the back pain.
Any tips? Or do I just need more time to get the back adjusted to riding? Been road riding for about 6 months, riding more and more lately as the weather has cleaned up. TIA.
Posted on 6/6/16 at 6:06 pm to Cdawg
The "cheaper" tubular wheels I'm referring to are usually second hands and can be had better than carbon clinchers.
Also if it were purely speed, I'd probably have opted for Turbo Cottons, but I'd heard that they wear very fast. I'm only on one set of wheels right now, so I wanted something I could keep on.
To the OP, I've heard good things about the 4 seasons as training/everyday tires.
Also if it were purely speed, I'd probably have opted for Turbo Cottons, but I'd heard that they wear very fast. I'm only on one set of wheels right now, so I wanted something I could keep on.
To the OP, I've heard good things about the 4 seasons as training/everyday tires.
Posted on 6/6/16 at 6:09 pm to CAD703X
quote:
1. at 225 you should have them at max PSI because you are much more likely to pinch flat with that much weight if you hit a pothole or crack in the road. 2. are you wearing shorts with a chamois? 3. lowering your tire PSI is a terrible idea to avoid a stiff ride. if that's the problem you are probably riding an AL bike which is going to transfer every shock throughout your body. consider replacing your bike frame with steel, carbon or TI.
1. I am rather new to road biking. The impact just doesn't seem to be as hard on the boys with lower psi. I usually only ride about 20-30 miles per ride no more than twice a week but friends want to get up to 75-100 miles.
2. No I am not...yet, but have been recommended to get some.
3. I do have an AL frame. I have a beginner bike Trek 1.1. Saving for a better bike. friends have carbon and are telling me to go that direction. They are also pushing me to upgrade to 28's, which is a fairly cheap upgrade, to ease the impact.
Thanks for the info
Posted on 6/6/16 at 6:14 pm to Kingpenm3
Have you had a fitting? A trained eye may be able to help things out.
But, I think (novice opinion) bike fit is half science and half an art of knowing exactly how flexible you are. You may be a little too aggressive right now. Maybe get a little more upright, then in a month pull out a spacer from your head tube. As you become more flexible, pain will go away.
I play with my stem adjustments every once in a while. I went from a flipped stem, to no spacers, to pretty soon needing a negative stem on my tri bike. Never had any pain other than maybe some mild neck soreness getting used to having to hold the head at a new angle. Goes away fast.
But, I think (novice opinion) bike fit is half science and half an art of knowing exactly how flexible you are. You may be a little too aggressive right now. Maybe get a little more upright, then in a month pull out a spacer from your head tube. As you become more flexible, pain will go away.
I play with my stem adjustments every once in a while. I went from a flipped stem, to no spacers, to pretty soon needing a negative stem on my tri bike. Never had any pain other than maybe some mild neck soreness getting used to having to hold the head at a new angle. Goes away fast.
This post was edited on 6/6/16 at 6:17 pm
Posted on 6/6/16 at 6:28 pm to Kingpenm3
Kill yourself
Posted on 6/6/16 at 6:33 pm to qwerpoiu
Posted on 6/6/16 at 6:34 pm to ssgrice
I'm full of useless advice 
Posted on 6/6/16 at 6:41 pm to CAD703X
S-Works Turbo...120 psi. on a Zipp 404.
Posted on 6/6/16 at 6:42 pm to Kingpenm3
This is the obvious answer to your back problems, tandem. You will be the talk of the town!
Just gotta get a friend to smell your farts on the ride, unless you like smelling fart.
This post was edited on 6/6/16 at 6:45 pm
Posted on 6/6/16 at 6:48 pm to KG6
I race on a set of tubulars, and it's quite hard to beat the ride quality of tubulars with clinchers. That said, when I race on clinchers, I'm now racing Turbo Cottons, and these very much equal the feel of tubular tires with the added bonus of being very fast with very good grip.
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