- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
boat battery help needed
Posted on 1/10/15 at 7:14 pm
Posted on 1/10/15 at 7:14 pm
i put 3 new batteries in my boat:
24v trolling system w/ other stuff hooked up to it - so 2 batteries, both gp27
1 new 12v starting battery
problem:
starting battery works but i went from weak 24v power to NO 24v power
all i did was disconnect, replace, and reconnect
wtf?
24v trolling system w/ other stuff hooked up to it - so 2 batteries, both gp27
1 new 12v starting battery
problem:
starting battery works but i went from weak 24v power to NO 24v power
all i did was disconnect, replace, and reconnect
wtf?
Posted on 1/10/15 at 7:16 pm to mack the knife
Just stay positive without a negative attitude
Posted on 1/10/15 at 7:19 pm to mack the knife
Could you have gotten a bad battery? It has happened to me before.
This post was edited on 1/10/15 at 7:21 pm
Posted on 1/10/15 at 7:22 pm to mack the knife
Black=NEG Red=POS confirm this and take pic of connections
Posted on 1/10/15 at 7:31 pm to mack the knife
1st check both new batteries in the 24V system. If you have a volt meter, disconnect the batteries from each other, then check for 12+ volts. If no volt meter connect each battery to your engine to see if they will crank just for diagnosis, If both are good you have an open in your circuit, The obvious is corroded cables. Not just the terminals but you can also have corrosion inside the cables. If the cables are good, check your switch wires and the relay between the switch and the battery cables. You can get an inexpensive Volt/Ohm meter at a parts house lie Auto Zone. Good Luck.
Posted on 1/10/15 at 7:42 pm to cajuncarguy
make sure you hooked them up correctly. you need to series the batteries. to do that you will need to hook positive on one battery to negative on the other. then hook your load to the open positive and negative terminals.
Posted on 1/10/15 at 7:45 pm to diat150
quote:
make sure you hooked them up correctly. you need to series the batteries. to do that you will need to hook positive on one battery to negative on the other. then hook your load to the open positive and negative terminals.
Not necessarily, some trolling motors have the jumper in the plug and you run four wires to the receptacle.
Posted on 1/10/15 at 8:15 pm to 007mag
quote:
quote:
make sure you hooked them up correctly. you need to series the batteries. to do that you will need to hook positive on one battery to negative on the other. then hook your load to the open positive and negative terminals.
Not necessarily, some trolling motors have the jumper in the plug and you run four wires to the receptacle.
i have a jumper. i've had 24v systems before and know what to look/chk for on trolling motor. all other stuff: horn, bilge, aerators, washdown pump are now dead. all i did was disconnect, replace, reconnect. i even labeled MOST of the connections as to which battery they connected to. i ran out of daylight so i quit and opened a beer and came to the OB.
im open for discussion
Posted on 1/10/15 at 8:52 pm to mack the knife
can you post a couple pics of the batteries and how they are hooked up?
Posted on 1/10/15 at 8:55 pm to mack the knife
I would unhook everything and start from scratch. Check each battery without the jumper. Install the jumper, test the voltage. If voltage is good, add one device, check voltage, add the next...
Of course checking all fuses goes without saying.
Of course checking all fuses goes without saying.
This post was edited on 1/10/15 at 8:57 pm
Posted on 1/10/15 at 9:31 pm to PaBon
quote:
Posted by PaBon can you post a couple pics of the batteries and how they are hooked up?
will do tomorrow when i have better light
MSWebfoot: i'll follow up on this as well
thanks for all the advice so far
This post was edited on 1/10/15 at 9:32 pm
Posted on 1/12/15 at 6:19 pm to mack the knife
I disconnected everything, chked all fuses and they are ok, reconnected everything and still have ZERO
wtf, help
wtf, help
Posted on 1/12/15 at 6:40 pm to mack the knife
on the main positive connection there should be a small breaker probably under the red rubber cover that has a tiny button on it...check it...
Posted on 1/13/15 at 7:38 am to farad
quote:
Posted by farad
on the main positive connection there should be a small breaker probably under the red rubber cover that has a tiny button on it...check it...
first thing i did. no prob there, and ive got 24v on trolling motor side of that relay. even the 12v equip powered off the deep cycle battery is offline.
Posted on 1/13/15 at 7:57 am to mack the knife
Invest in one of these... They're really cheap at Harbor Freight....
Posted on 1/13/15 at 8:10 am to Hangover Haven
quote:
Hangover Haven
see my most recent post, that's how i made sure that i have 24v past the relay. electrical problems drive me nuts!
Posted on 1/13/15 at 8:33 am to mack the knife
I know this sounds stupid, but did you check to see if the batteries had a charge... Maybe you have a bad battery...?
Posted on 1/13/15 at 8:41 am to Hangover Haven
Ok, not knowing your situation that well but knowing a little bit about electrical problems.
You're getting 24V on the relay side..is that with the coil engaged on the OUTPUT of the relay or the INPUT of the relay? If it's on the input...then the relay might be bad...but the batteries seem to be good.
If it's on the output side of the relay (w/coil energized)....then I'm a little more befuddled.
You're getting 24V on the relay side..is that with the coil engaged on the OUTPUT of the relay or the INPUT of the relay? If it's on the input...then the relay might be bad...but the batteries seem to be good.
If it's on the output side of the relay (w/coil energized)....then I'm a little more befuddled.
This post was edited on 1/13/15 at 8:42 am
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News