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Started By
Message
Best weed and feed applicant
Posted on 3/13/26 at 4:14 pm
Posted on 3/13/26 at 4:14 pm
Give me your best applicant or combo that works for you.
I’ve used Scott’s Weed and Feed and then dropped milorganite on it after a month, water almost every day and never had greener healthier grass.
This year I have an unusual amount of weeds, most I can’t even identify so I was curious if there’s anything better y’all use.
Appreciate it in advance
I’ve used Scott’s Weed and Feed and then dropped milorganite on it after a month, water almost every day and never had greener healthier grass.
This year I have an unusual amount of weeds, most I can’t even identify so I was curious if there’s anything better y’all use.
Appreciate it in advance
7
Posted on 3/13/26 at 4:22 pm to LSUcajun77
What's your grass type?
The vast majority of winter weeds that you would be seeing right now are:
Broadleaf weeds
Carolina Geranium
Henbit
Dandelion
Chickweed
Clover
Speedwell
Lawn Burweed (stickers)
Cleavers
Grassy weeds
Poa Annua
Weed and Feed doesn't do much against mature winter weeds (see above). Granular weeding doesn't work too well.
You'll either need to spray (need grass type), or just start mowing consistently at the appropriate height (again, need grass type).
In the future, you can prevent most weeds from germinating by using a pre emergent in October and February.
The vast majority of winter weeds that you would be seeing right now are:
Broadleaf weeds
Carolina Geranium
Henbit
Dandelion
Chickweed
Clover
Speedwell
Lawn Burweed (stickers)
Cleavers
Grassy weeds
Poa Annua
Weed and Feed doesn't do much against mature winter weeds (see above). Granular weeding doesn't work too well.
You'll either need to spray (need grass type), or just start mowing consistently at the appropriate height (again, need grass type).
In the future, you can prevent most weeds from germinating by using a pre emergent in October and February.
This post was edited on 3/13/26 at 4:23 pm
Posted on 3/13/26 at 4:24 pm to LSUcajun77
What kind of grass? Where are you?
Are you holding to max annual npk applications?
Research Milo well before applying. Depending on your grass type you may be doing more long term harm than good.
Are you holding to max annual npk applications?
Research Milo well before applying. Depending on your grass type you may be doing more long term harm than good.
This post was edited on 3/13/26 at 4:26 pm
Posted on 3/13/26 at 4:47 pm to bayoubengals88
Centipede
South Louisiana, St Charles to be specific.
South Louisiana, St Charles to be specific.
Posted on 3/13/26 at 5:12 pm to LSUcajun77
Cool. Forget the milogranite. It's likely too much nitrogen over the annual rate. Looks good but long term you will end up in a really worse spot. If you have a Lowe's get some of the StaGreen 16-0-10 natural Slow release and spread it at a lower rate in late April. Spread again in early July at a low rate. Do not overdo the annual nitrogen rate.
For weeds I like Atrazine before it gets too warm. When it gets warm Celsius is a go to. Both may take two apps two weeks apart. If you carefully follow directions on Celsius you will not harm your grass in the heat. Celsius is expensive but a small bottle goes a super long way.
Between fertilizer apps if you want a quick green up find an iron application. I prefer liquid over granular.
Half rate preemergent in the fall. And again in February. Learn soil temps and when weeds start germinating. That will save you time and money.
My two cents. There are others here with fantastic recommendations.
For weeds I like Atrazine before it gets too warm. When it gets warm Celsius is a go to. Both may take two apps two weeks apart. If you carefully follow directions on Celsius you will not harm your grass in the heat. Celsius is expensive but a small bottle goes a super long way.
Between fertilizer apps if you want a quick green up find an iron application. I prefer liquid over granular.
Half rate preemergent in the fall. And again in February. Learn soil temps and when weeds start germinating. That will save you time and money.
My two cents. There are others here with fantastic recommendations.
This post was edited on 3/13/26 at 5:16 pm
Posted on 3/13/26 at 7:45 pm to LSUcajun77
15-0-15 was made especially for Centipede. If you insist on Weed and Feed I’d look for that one.
Posted on 3/14/26 at 3:50 pm to LSUcajun77
NEVER weed AND feed
Posted on 3/14/26 at 4:47 pm to LSUcajun77
“Best” is the one with the least amount of Nitrogen. Lesco 0-0-7 maybe? It really depends on your weeds and what nutrients your soil needs.
Nitrogen applied before green up is feeding the fungi and creating problems.
Scott’s has way too much nitrogen for centipede. Nitrogen is basically crack for centipede. It flies high the first year, then before long, it’s looking like Tyrone Biggums. Limit Tyrone to 1 lb of crack per 1000 SF per year
Nitrogen applied before green up is feeding the fungi and creating problems.
Scott’s has way too much nitrogen for centipede. Nitrogen is basically crack for centipede. It flies high the first year, then before long, it’s looking like Tyrone Biggums. Limit Tyrone to 1 lb of crack per 1000 SF per year
This post was edited on 3/14/26 at 4:59 pm
Posted on 3/14/26 at 10:02 pm to LSUcajun77
Look at bioadvanced season long weed killer and preventer for southern lawns. It has the same ingredient as the preemergant specticle which is fantastic stuff.
Posted on 3/15/26 at 8:19 am to LEASTBAY
quote:
bioadvanced season long weed killer
I've used this in recent years and I think it works well, but I couldn't find it the last times I looked. I guess I can try Amazon. I use it with a sprayer bottle they sold at one point, just refill that. There is probably an easier way.
Posted on 3/15/26 at 10:38 am to calcotron
I bought a granular. Definitely cannot put it in a sprayer. Maybe they have a concentrate. It's $20 at home Depot website.
Posted on 3/15/26 at 2:01 pm to LSUcajun77
I have never experienced any success with any weed/feed.....
I go with 13/13/13 and make it green,,,,,and spot spray with Celsius as needed for VBW.
And only apply fertilizer every couple of years...and add sod where grass gets sparse....
Good Luck
I go with 13/13/13 and make it green,,,,,and spot spray with Celsius as needed for VBW.
And only apply fertilizer every couple of years...and add sod where grass gets sparse....
Good Luck
Posted on 3/16/26 at 9:11 am to Wm Faulkner
quote:i was getting ready to this weeking. Why?
NEVER weed AND feed
Posted on 3/16/26 at 9:19 am to Sleepy_Tiger
Wording--you can weed and feed but not well with the same product. It's better to put down a fertilizer and a separate weed killer. Weed and Feed like Scott's it's a compromised that usually includes applying too much nitrogen for the weed killing to work well.
It's too early for fertilizer anyway. Best to wait until late April if you are in southern Louisiana.
It's too early for fertilizer anyway. Best to wait until late April if you are in southern Louisiana.
This post was edited on 3/16/26 at 9:24 am
Posted on 3/16/26 at 9:53 am to Sleepy_Tiger
quote:I'll elaborate on timing.
i was getting ready to this weeking. Why?
It's mid march. Most people who did not apply a fall pre emergent are totally overrun with at least 2-4 types of winter weeds.
Those sons a bitches are mature by now and will be hanging around longer than you'd think.
You know what's tough to do?
Killing a mature weed...
You what's harder than that?
Doing it with a small dose of granular trimec (Scott's Weed and Feed).
Weed and Feed MAY work on winter weeds if used in early February, but to the point above, you don't want to FEED in early February.
That's way too early. It's sleeting this morning...
And it's impossible not to feed with weed and feed, because a whopping 28-0-3 NPK ratio is also in the bag. That's a lot of nitrogen.
ALTERNATIVE
Spray your weeds with a trimec in February, and feed your grass in late March or early April.
LAST,
Most people think that putting down one app of Weed & Feed is all that they need to do.
In reality, Weed and Feed (if it happens to work), will only kill what's visible. Winter weeds...
It will do nothing to prevent summer weeds, which you'll start seeing a lot more of May through August.
This post was edited on 3/16/26 at 11:00 am
Posted on 3/16/26 at 10:22 am to bayoubengals88
quote:
bayoubengals88
Very good explanation.
For the poster, It begs the question why do manufacturers produce & sell Weed & Feed as they are popular? Simply as a convenience product for the homeowner who doesn’t particularly relish, or who wants to minimize time, doing lawn chores - one only needs to get into the lawn once, rather than twice, to handle what should be two separate, non-related lawn activities. It’s an attempt to kill “two birds with one stone”, nothing wrong with that, only it doesn’t do a good job of optimizing the timing of weed control & lawn fertilization activities.
Posted on 3/16/26 at 1:38 pm to CrawDude
I was informed a long time ago by an ole LSU ag guy not to feed until after April 15th. You want that grass to come out of dormancy on its own. This gives a lil more time for the roots to get established.
Posted on 3/16/26 at 1:53 pm to CrawDude
quote:I’ve come up with my own solution for that
a convenience product for the homeowner who doesn’t particularly relish, or who wants to minimize time, doing lawn chores
Posted on 3/16/26 at 2:24 pm to LEASTBAY
quote:
Look at bioadvanced season long weed killer and preventer for southern lawns. It has the same ingredient as the preemergant specticle which is fantastic stuff.
I switched to this last year and have been really pleased.
Prodiamine isn't effective against the weeds in my neighborhood.
Start checking local Walmart and lowes around August and you can score some $7 bags.
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