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Started By
Message
WY to MT road trip advice (going to glacier NP)
Posted on 12/5/24 at 3:40 pm
Posted on 12/5/24 at 3:40 pm
see below for route
its 8hrs (450mi) from grand targhee to st mary; thats too far for one day. i've been to yellowstone but thats it for WY and never been to MT. helena looks like its halfway which is fine if theres not a cool stop in that general vicinity 4-5 hrs from alta and on the way. something on a lake or creek or otherwise better than a hotel room by the highway. even a cool small town...?
any advice on places worth seeing/staying at along that route would be appreciated
its 8hrs (450mi) from grand targhee to st mary; thats too far for one day. i've been to yellowstone but thats it for WY and never been to MT. helena looks like its halfway which is fine if theres not a cool stop in that general vicinity 4-5 hrs from alta and on the way. something on a lake or creek or otherwise better than a hotel room by the highway. even a cool small town...?
any advice on places worth seeing/staying at along that route would be appreciated
6
Posted on 12/5/24 at 4:50 pm to cgrand
Is this soon or in the summertime?
Posted on 12/5/24 at 7:40 pm to cgrand
Friend,
We have taken that route from Yellowstone to the east side of Glacier several times. Much of it is empty and there were times we saw not a car for over 30 minutes.
The most beautiful part of the trip is between West Yellowstone and Big Sky along the Gallatin River. Many of the famous fishing scenes from A River Runs Through It were shot along this stretch. If I were with you I could show you the big rock Brad Pitt cast from in the famous shadow casting scene.
Helena is not much of a city. It might be the most unremarkable, uninteresting American state capitol. A half hour north is the Gateway to the Mountains, which has a boat tour along the Missouri River. It might be the only tourist stop between Helena and Glacier. It is the only way you can see Mann Gulch, site of one of the worst fire jumper tragedies. A little north from there is Wolf Creek, which is home to some great trout fishing. It is also where Jesse Burns hailed. Wolf Creek used to have an excellent steakhouse in the old post office there, but I searched and now it is called Lazy Beerworks and does not look promising.
The food overall in Montana is not good, so do not expect to find much worth eating along the way.
The desolation of the eastern approach to Glacier is something to behold. It is more memorable than anything else on the route. There are a few small towns, each with its own rodeo. Augusta’s is the best and occurs the last weekend of June each year. You will be in Blackfoot territory just before Glacier. It is impoverished. We did not stop.
I hope you have a room at Many Glacier lodge. It is so lovely. I miss it dearly. The food there is as good as you will get in Montana, which is not much to say. If you are there in late summer and find a stand selling huckleberries, go for it. I was not fond of huckleberry pies, which are sold at every place in the area.
Yours,
TulaneLSU
We have taken that route from Yellowstone to the east side of Glacier several times. Much of it is empty and there were times we saw not a car for over 30 minutes.
The most beautiful part of the trip is between West Yellowstone and Big Sky along the Gallatin River. Many of the famous fishing scenes from A River Runs Through It were shot along this stretch. If I were with you I could show you the big rock Brad Pitt cast from in the famous shadow casting scene.
Helena is not much of a city. It might be the most unremarkable, uninteresting American state capitol. A half hour north is the Gateway to the Mountains, which has a boat tour along the Missouri River. It might be the only tourist stop between Helena and Glacier. It is the only way you can see Mann Gulch, site of one of the worst fire jumper tragedies. A little north from there is Wolf Creek, which is home to some great trout fishing. It is also where Jesse Burns hailed. Wolf Creek used to have an excellent steakhouse in the old post office there, but I searched and now it is called Lazy Beerworks and does not look promising.
The food overall in Montana is not good, so do not expect to find much worth eating along the way.
The desolation of the eastern approach to Glacier is something to behold. It is more memorable than anything else on the route. There are a few small towns, each with its own rodeo. Augusta’s is the best and occurs the last weekend of June each year. You will be in Blackfoot territory just before Glacier. It is impoverished. We did not stop.
I hope you have a room at Many Glacier lodge. It is so lovely. I miss it dearly. The food there is as good as you will get in Montana, which is not much to say. If you are there in late summer and find a stand selling huckleberries, go for it. I was not fond of huckleberry pies, which are sold at every place in the area.
Yours,
TulaneLSU
This post was edited on 12/5/24 at 7:41 pm
Posted on 12/5/24 at 10:18 pm to TulaneLSU
thanks brother
trip will be 2nd week august 2025
we may just make the drive in one day if the drive itself is the best part. Trying to get into many glacier lodge now but it’s showing sold out
trip will be 2nd week august 2025
we may just make the drive in one day if the drive itself is the best part. Trying to get into many glacier lodge now but it’s showing sold out
Posted on 12/6/24 at 8:21 am to cgrand
We went along some of the route shown in gray on your map going through Dillon.. There are several stops we took.
Off the route excursion to Bannock State Park. Home to a non-commercialized ghost town. Unique and intriguing. Not crowded when we went in August 2023.
Deer Lodge has the Old Montana Prison, which has a self-guided tour that we enjoyed. Also, the Old Prison Ice Cream shop was nearby. In August; who doesn't want an ice cream break. The Grant-Kohrs ranch is just outside of Deer Park. A National Historic site.
We went to the west side of Glacier and stayed in a place about 10 minutes from the West Gate. We stopped at the Bison Range near there, since my other half cannot get enough of the bison experience. The Michelangelo Church on the south side of the lake. Church is by another name, but the ceiling was beautifully, artistically painted. And at a few huckleberry stands and a distillery. I got a bottle of huckleberry infused whiskey. If you enjoy whiskeys, I can tell you that the huckleberry flavor was very pleasant and noticeable. Very good taste, which is why I don't have any anymore since October of 2023.
As with any answer to "What to see or do" question; much depends on "why you travel". Rugged, outdoors adventures. Scenery and trails - a non-camping type. History of an area or region. Pilgrimage to National Parks/Large cities. Also, there are the Foodies & Drinkers.
Or the opposite of us, the "Cop a Squats". Those that get to a destination, set up a few 'things to do' and then enjoy to resort and lazing around. Nothing wrong with that approach, since many of that kind need stress relief from work and want to be pampered.
I am a combination of several types, as most people are. I am NOT a Rugged outdoorsman as camping is a no-go. Nor am I the F&D kind, like going to NAPA as a vacay.
Off the route excursion to Bannock State Park. Home to a non-commercialized ghost town. Unique and intriguing. Not crowded when we went in August 2023.
Deer Lodge has the Old Montana Prison, which has a self-guided tour that we enjoyed. Also, the Old Prison Ice Cream shop was nearby. In August; who doesn't want an ice cream break. The Grant-Kohrs ranch is just outside of Deer Park. A National Historic site.
We went to the west side of Glacier and stayed in a place about 10 minutes from the West Gate. We stopped at the Bison Range near there, since my other half cannot get enough of the bison experience. The Michelangelo Church on the south side of the lake. Church is by another name, but the ceiling was beautifully, artistically painted. And at a few huckleberry stands and a distillery. I got a bottle of huckleberry infused whiskey. If you enjoy whiskeys, I can tell you that the huckleberry flavor was very pleasant and noticeable. Very good taste, which is why I don't have any anymore since October of 2023.
As with any answer to "What to see or do" question; much depends on "why you travel". Rugged, outdoors adventures. Scenery and trails - a non-camping type. History of an area or region. Pilgrimage to National Parks/Large cities. Also, there are the Foodies & Drinkers.
Or the opposite of us, the "Cop a Squats". Those that get to a destination, set up a few 'things to do' and then enjoy to resort and lazing around. Nothing wrong with that approach, since many of that kind need stress relief from work and want to be pampered.
I am a combination of several types, as most people are. I am NOT a Rugged outdoorsman as camping is a no-go. Nor am I the F&D kind, like going to NAPA as a vacay.
Posted on 12/6/24 at 8:45 am to cgrand
I would take the western route you show but with an exception.
Ennis is a neat little town along the way but early in your drive. Missoula sucks so skip it plus the drive north from there in Summer is crowded. Go through Seely Lake and Swan Lake. Both are beautiful. Along Flat Head Lake they have the cherry orchards which are cool to see and delicious. Maybe try to spend the night in Bigfork?
Since you are going to Glacier I will give you my off the radar tips.
Belton Chalet makes great cocktails and has great food.
Home Ranch Bottoms near Polebridge is better than any of the places in Polebridge. Drinks, food, and live music. Bowman Lake up there is beautiful.
Huckleberries are expensive blueberries.They are great, just like a blueberry, but the novelty lies in they are only wild grown.
Everyone knows this but Hike 734 is your guide to all hikes in GNP.
I have two hikes and canoeing Bowman Lake left on my to do for GNP, so perhaps I will see you up there this year.
Ennis is a neat little town along the way but early in your drive. Missoula sucks so skip it plus the drive north from there in Summer is crowded. Go through Seely Lake and Swan Lake. Both are beautiful. Along Flat Head Lake they have the cherry orchards which are cool to see and delicious. Maybe try to spend the night in Bigfork?
Since you are going to Glacier I will give you my off the radar tips.
Belton Chalet makes great cocktails and has great food.
Home Ranch Bottoms near Polebridge is better than any of the places in Polebridge. Drinks, food, and live music. Bowman Lake up there is beautiful.
Huckleberries are expensive blueberries.They are great, just like a blueberry, but the novelty lies in they are only wild grown.
Everyone knows this but Hike 734 is your guide to all hikes in GNP.
I have two hikes and canoeing Bowman Lake left on my to do for GNP, so perhaps I will see you up there this year.
Posted on 12/6/24 at 8:56 am to idontyield
Just here to say that Glacier is freaking awesome. Not sure if they're doing tickets for it but if not get on the Going to the Sun Road nice and early to make sure you get in there. The Highline Trail is breathtaking.
Posted on 12/6/24 at 10:11 am to Chucktown_Badger
I was up there a few years ago in June. The morning air was the freshest, cleanest I've ever breathed.
Posted on 12/6/24 at 12:27 pm to mauser
yes i am very exited; thanks to all for the tips.
right now the prelim plan is to stay two nites on the east side near st mary and two nights on the west side wherever. i appears its less congested to the interior of the park coming from the east
the trip will be home>stanley ID>targhee bluegrass festival>glacier NP>home. fly in to boise and fly out from kalispell. 12 days
right now the prelim plan is to stay two nites on the east side near st mary and two nights on the west side wherever. i appears its less congested to the interior of the park coming from the east
the trip will be home>stanley ID>targhee bluegrass festival>glacier NP>home. fly in to boise and fly out from kalispell. 12 days
Posted on 12/6/24 at 3:29 pm to cgrand
Leave YNP so that you can drive through Paradise Valley.
Posted on 12/6/24 at 3:44 pm to cgrand
Go through Flathead National Forrest to Red Lodge. Spend the night in this cool town then take The Beartooth Pass to east entrance of park. We did this trip in September. Including GNP, Yellowstone and our Snake river float, the Beartooth Pass drive was one of the highlights of the trip. Everyone was impressed I built it in to itinerary.
LINK
LINK
This post was edited on 12/6/24 at 3:48 pm
Posted on 12/6/24 at 3:57 pm to BlackPawnMartyr
quote:how did you get from YS area to beartooth?
Go through Flathead National Forrest to Red Lodge. Spend the night in this cool town then take The Beartooth Pass to east entrance of park.
i'm going to be on the west side of YS in Alta but i can cut thru the park at mammoth it looks like. is that what you did?
Posted on 12/6/24 at 4:44 pm to BlackPawnMartyr
Red Lodge through Bear tooth pass to Cooke City to North East entrance. If it's not showing up on maps now it's because it's closes for winter.
Posted on 12/6/24 at 11:06 pm to cgrand
quote:
right now the prelim plan is to stay two nites on the east side near st mary and two nights on the west side wherever.
Been to GP twice, in 2014 and this past July. First time without kids, last summer with 3. I know you didn’t ask, but if I had to do it over I’d skip the west side completely unless you get a res for North Fork and want to spend some time up there. Apgar and everything around it was extremely crowded. We just didn’t enjoy it, but many do. Especially if hiking is your plan.
To your original question, we drove from Jackson Hole to the East Side in a day. 9+ hrs but there’s nothing in between and it’s what we had to do. As TulaneLSU said, we made a pit stop in Helena and it was the most uninteresting place we saw for 2 weeks.
The drive back was very interesting, especially between Glacier and Great Falls. The drive through Judith Gap and Ryegate along hwy 191 and hwy 12 to Billings is nice.
We used this site to look for things along the way and back. There are some real hidden gems on there, including an odd place for an early morning glass of lemonade.
Roadside America
Posted on 12/7/24 at 8:05 am to meeple
quote:assuming mid august will be peak congestion avoiding the masses is high on my list. Is there anything past the apgar checkpoint that we’d be missing out on if we stayed east? We will have to stay one night at least in whitefish so we can fly out from that airport
skip the west side completely unless you get a res for North Fork and want to spend some time up there. Apgar and everything around it was extremely crowded. We just didn’t enjoy it,
Posted on 12/7/24 at 12:04 pm to cgrand
If staying on the east side you can turn around at Lake McDonald Lodge. Nothing really different past there.
You should really try to get up to Polebrdige area for Bowman Lake.
You should really try to get up to Polebrdige area for Bowman Lake.
Posted on 12/7/24 at 12:45 pm to cgrand
quote:
there anything past the apgar checkpoint that we’d be missing out on if we stayed east?
Polebridge and North Fork. You’ll need a vehicle reservation to get up to Bowman Lake. If you can’t get one, going to the Polebridge Mercantile is worth the drive up if you have to be on that side anyway. You do not need a vehicle reservation to get to the Mercantile.
You’ll also need one to get across the GTTSR from the West entrance if you didn’t already know that, but it doesn’t sound like you’ll be going that direction.
We hiked to Avalanche Lake on our last day in the park, though… you’d have to work that in while you’re on the GTTSR though.
This post was edited on 12/7/24 at 12:58 pm
Posted on 12/7/24 at 1:01 pm to meeple
appreciate all the info guys
since I know we will need to be on the west for the last nite I’ll try and buy a pass for polebridge road for that afternoon
if there’s nothing we must see past lake McDonald then I’ll stay east 3 nites
since I know we will need to be on the west for the last nite I’ll try and buy a pass for polebridge road for that afternoon
if there’s nothing we must see past lake McDonald then I’ll stay east 3 nites
This post was edited on 12/7/24 at 1:14 pm
Posted on 12/7/24 at 1:06 pm to cgrand
Happy to help. We love it there. Where are you planning on staying on the east side?
Posted on 12/7/24 at 1:52 pm to meeple
looking at vacation rentals now…in and around st mary. all suggestions welcome
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