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Started By
Message
Wood Privacy Fence - Last minute tips, advice?
Posted on 5/28/24 at 9:46 am
Posted on 5/28/24 at 9:46 am
Will build this weekend, will order material today or tomorrow. One call should be out Thursday.
About 200' of 6' fence. I think it will be pretty standard.
4x4x8' posts w/ 8" x ~2.5' hole. I plan to use foam instead of concrete. I'll have a skid-steer with 8" auger.
Three runners w/ 8' 2x4s. I've laid out my posts and gates for minimal trimming of 2x4s, but I'm not sure that's going to work out like I have in mind. I will also have "T" brackets cut from ~16gauge galvanized sheetmetal to screw to instead of busting the ends of my 2x4s screwing just to the posts.
5/8x5.5" pickets. All screws, no nails.
One 4' gate with hinge side located 2' past where a post falls so I'll have two posts 2' apart to support the gate. Is this a stupid and unnecessary idea?
One 10' double gate. I'll cross tie the tops of the gate posts to the bottoms of the next posts. Again, unnecessary?
This is my first time building a fence. It seems pretty straightforward, but I know everything is more complicated than it seems at first. I'll probably end up overthinking everything and then nothing works out as planned anyway.
Any tips/advice or just a "good luck" would be appreciated.
About 200' of 6' fence. I think it will be pretty standard.
4x4x8' posts w/ 8" x ~2.5' hole. I plan to use foam instead of concrete. I'll have a skid-steer with 8" auger.
Three runners w/ 8' 2x4s. I've laid out my posts and gates for minimal trimming of 2x4s, but I'm not sure that's going to work out like I have in mind. I will also have "T" brackets cut from ~16gauge galvanized sheetmetal to screw to instead of busting the ends of my 2x4s screwing just to the posts.
5/8x5.5" pickets. All screws, no nails.
One 4' gate with hinge side located 2' past where a post falls so I'll have two posts 2' apart to support the gate. Is this a stupid and unnecessary idea?
One 10' double gate. I'll cross tie the tops of the gate posts to the bottoms of the next posts. Again, unnecessary?
This is my first time building a fence. It seems pretty straightforward, but I know everything is more complicated than it seems at first. I'll probably end up overthinking everything and then nothing works out as planned anyway.
Any tips/advice or just a "good luck" would be appreciated.
11
Posted on 5/28/24 at 10:08 am to Korkstand
quote:
Three runners w/ 8' 2x4s.
Use 16' 2x4s instead, alternating where your top/middle/bottom runner end on each post. It'll be stronger that way.
Posted on 5/28/24 at 10:29 am to YOURADHERE
quote:
Use 16' 2x4s instead, alternating where your top/middle/bottom runner end on each post. It'll be stronger that way.
^This
Posted on 5/28/24 at 10:55 am to YOURADHERE
quote:I like strength!
Use 16' 2x4s instead, alternating where your top/middle/bottom runner end on each post. It'll be stronger that way.
For whatever reason 16s are more per foot than 8s, 68 cents vs 52 cents, and that works out to about $110 more for this job. I'm not sure if it would save me any labor either. And if I lap them as mentioned I would space my posts 3.5" closer per every 2 posts. That'll be about 4' total and I think I would have to add another post.
Visually I think I like all the runners in line, and I *know* my wife prefers that.
You are right though, it would definitely be stronger. Probably stronger even than my plan to use "T" clips to get more screws further from the ends of the boards. The clips are basically free to me though.
I appreciate the advice though, I may still go that route if I can convince my wife that it would look ok and I can justify the added cost of the wood and extra post. Thanks!
Posted on 5/28/24 at 11:03 am to Korkstand
Man I sure hope you aren't the guy coming build mine this weekend
Kidding.
For what it's worth you will get what you pay for, or labor for.
There's two schools of thought. Stagger the runners for strength, or don't and let a storm coming through take the panels and leave the posts.
Also, 4x6 posts will be more expensive but will be MUCH stronger.
Kidding.
For what it's worth you will get what you pay for, or labor for.
There's two schools of thought. Stagger the runners for strength, or don't and let a storm coming through take the panels and leave the posts.
Also, 4x6 posts will be more expensive but will be MUCH stronger.
Posted on 5/28/24 at 11:08 am to Korkstand
Sounds like you did your homework and are ready to roll. Good luck and have fun putting it in.
Posted on 5/28/24 at 11:14 am to TheBoo
quote:
Man I sure hope you aren't the guy coming build mine this weekend
quote:I got the idea for the brackets from a guy who built a fence with them using 8 footers not staggered and that fence has held strong through 20 years of storms. Fingers crossed mine is as strong if I go this route.
There's two schools of thought. Stagger the runners for strength, or don't and let a storm coming through take the panels and leave the posts.
Posted on 5/28/24 at 12:27 pm to Korkstand
On the hinge side of gates, I used 4x6 not 4x4.
Posted on 5/28/24 at 12:43 pm to Korkstand
Cedar or PT pine? I know cedar is more expensive, but to me it's worth it because I hate having pickets that eventually look like skis and have to be replaced.
I'm also not sold on setting posts in foam instead of concrete. I can't see how stable the foam will be during high winds. I would seriously consider staggering your runners instead of using brackets to tie 8 footers together.
I'm also not sold on setting posts in foam instead of concrete. I can't see how stable the foam will be during high winds. I would seriously consider staggering your runners instead of using brackets to tie 8 footers together.
Posted on 5/28/24 at 12:52 pm to Korkstand
quote:
For whatever reason 16s are more per foot than 8s
b/c they need a 16+ foot length of wood to make a 16 footer obviously. Don't need a 16 footer to make an 8.
quote:
that works out to about $110 more for this job.
$110 additional to do the job right on a project of this size is a no brainer. Do it right.
quote:
I'm not sure if it would save me any labor either.
The goal should be to do the job right, not to do it with the least amount of work.
quote:
Visually I think I like all the runners in line, and I *know* my wife prefers that.
not sure what you are getting at here, the runners will be inline if you use 16 footers and install them correctly.
Are you talking about putting the 8 footers 'between' your posts? If so, that's an extremely weak design and will certainly sag.
Posted on 5/28/24 at 1:06 pm to MikeBRLA
quote:
The goal should be to do the job right, not to do it with the least amount of work.
I just meant that the $110 material cost might not be the only cost associated with using 16 footers.
quote:I believe the suggestion was to put one high and one low at each rail to post joint (as opposed to butting them) so as to have 3.5" of material at the end of each board to screw through instead of half that.
not sure what you are getting at here, the runners will be inline if you use 16 footers and install them correctly.
quote:
Are you talking about putting the 8 footers 'between' your posts? If so, that's an extremely weak design and will certainly sag.
No absolutely not.
Posted on 5/28/24 at 1:22 pm to Korkstand
quote:
Visually I think I like all the runners in line, and I *know* my wife prefers that
by staggering them you will still get a straight line appearance, you put your post 8' apart and use 16' 2x4, the top and bottom runner star at the first post and go 16' out, the middle will be 8' and then continue alternating, but they will all be in a straight line and your posts will not have to be any closer
and your 2x4's should be nailed not screwed to add more shear strength, pickets some say screw some say nail, i nailed with ring shank nails
This post was edited on 5/28/24 at 1:25 pm
Posted on 5/28/24 at 1:28 pm to Korkstand
quote:
I believe the suggestion was to put one high and one low at each rail to post joint (as opposed to butting them) so as to have 3.5" of material at the end of each board to screw through instead of half that.
that was not the suggestion, they should be staggered to where all 3 runners do not terminate on the same post except at the corners, will add an enormous amount of strength, you will have 1 1/2' of each runner on the 4x4 , which I would go with 4x6 anyway, 4x4 these days suck and will warp in months, they are not the same as they were 15 years ago, todays lumbar sucks
Posted on 5/28/24 at 2:10 pm to Korkstand
I’d lay my 16’ rails in the weather for a month or so. It will shrink, warp, etc. I had my shite cut dick tight and it shrank length wise and now has gaps and pulled screw, etc. fk Home Depot lumber. I’d use metal posts.
Posted on 5/28/24 at 2:42 pm to Tigerpaw123
Oh I see, y'all are just talking about staggering the joints, but still butting them end to end? I think just as big a failure point is splitting the 2x4s right there at the ends. I want more length of board to attach to.
I guess y'all have convinced me on the 16s though. I was thinking I would end up doing more trimming with the longer boards, and having to treat those fresh ends and what not. But I think the added strength is the bigger concern.
I guess y'all have convinced me on the 16s though. I was thinking I would end up doing more trimming with the longer boards, and having to treat those fresh ends and what not. But I think the added strength is the bigger concern.
Posted on 5/28/24 at 3:34 pm to Korkstand
I don't think anyone commented on the 8' posts, but since everyone is commenting on strength should I get 10s and trim them? And maybe dig my holes a couple feet but then drive the posts into the dirt as deep as the skid steer can shove them?
Posted on 5/28/24 at 4:11 pm to Korkstand
8’ posts are good.
Absolutely go 16’ 2x4’s staggered. Don’t even build the fence if you don’t.
Absolutely go 16’ 2x4’s staggered. Don’t even build the fence if you don’t.
Posted on 5/28/24 at 4:30 pm to Korkstand
8' is fine sink them 2 1/2 -3' and your top runner is still good
Posted on 5/28/24 at 4:40 pm to poochie
quote:I will, but I will still use my clips.
Absolutely go 16’ 2x4’s staggered. Don’t even build the fence if you don’t.
I get that staggering the joints will avoid making 8 foot panels that can flex and/or fall over, but we still have 1 or 2 weak joints per post that I think eventually will fail. That's why I thought the poster above was suggesting stacking them high/low at the joints as well, that way you have more meat to fasten to the post and you avoid splitting the 2x4 so close to the end. That's the purpose of the clips, to keep the rails lined up while also giving me ~4" at the end of each 2x4 to put screws without splitting the wood.
So I'll just do both, use 16 footers to eliminate some of the weak joints, and clips to eliminate the rest.
Posted on 5/28/24 at 5:05 pm to Korkstand
Use nails not screws to fasten runners to posts
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