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| Favorite team: | |
| Location: | New Iberia, LA |
| Biography: | |
| Interests: | Saints |
| Occupation: | HNIC |
| Number of Posts: | 306 |
| Registered on: | 11/18/2011 |
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Recent Posts
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What would be best to use on white clover right now. In Lafayette area. Bermuda is in green up currently. Have about 8 acres to do, so trying to keep it economical.
Be sure you buy the correct stuff. Don't confuse it for wire mats that you put in a slab. Those will rust and look like crab. There also might be different thickness in the gage wire and different size squares.
check a feed store or tractor supply.
check a feed store or tractor supply.
re: Zenith Zoysia Help
Posted by JDat on 4/26/22 at 7:00 am to questionable
I have Zenith. In the shade, it'll live, but not really spread out that much. So unless you sod, you'll be waiting for a long time.
Keep cut at 2".
Keep cut at 2".
But is it too nuclear of an option. Don't want to kill the zoysia with it.
Also, I plan on following up with some hydroseeding in areas that the bermuda is extra thick. I don't think this combo would hinder germination, but asking opinions....
Also, I plan on following up with some hydroseeding in areas that the bermuda is extra thick. I don't think this combo would hinder germination, but asking opinions....
Fusilade II
Posted by JDat on 3/7/22 at 3:06 pm
Trying to get a bunch of bermuda out of my zenith zoysia. From what I've ready, Fusilade II is the herbicide to use. However, I've ready some opinions that suggest adding other things in to aid (Triclopyr 4 or Methylated Seed Oil).
Anyone have any experience with this?
Anyone have any experience with this?
re: New Construction Lawn
Posted by JDat on 2/15/22 at 1:03 pm to tigerpride8
bermuda will spread and cover much quicker. Def go with hydroseeding option if seeding.
If you just want green grass mixed with weeds, hydroseed. If you want a weed free lawn looking good, just sod and get it over with. Post construction site will require some serious work / costs to get a weed free good looking lawn.
If you just want green grass mixed with weeds, hydroseed. If you want a weed free lawn looking good, just sod and get it over with. Post construction site will require some serious work / costs to get a weed free good looking lawn.
The pea gravel will be everywhere. Use limestone 610. It has a powder to it and will get hard. Almost like cement. I'd keep the rock about 1/4" lower than the top of the paver. Wet it down good after you spread it.
re: Recommendation for Grass Type
Posted by JDat on 11/30/21 at 7:12 am to Woodsmaster
I don't think you're going to find any grass that will tolerate the shade and the heavy traffic. If nothing is growing there now, a better grass won't do so much better that you'd be satisfied. If it makes a mud hole when wet, I'd suggest a deck or flagstone with something shade tolerant growing in the cracks.
re: $$$$ Artificial Grass Quote (DFW)
Posted by JDat on 9/17/21 at 1:05 pm to southerngent1417
I think you are underestimating. There will have to be removal of the existing grass and surface prep (sand / level / pack).
Also, artificial turf gets very hot in the summer. Like you won't walk on it barefoot in summer time.
Also, artificial turf gets very hot in the summer. Like you won't walk on it barefoot in summer time.
re: Are sprinkler systems worth the money?
Posted by JDat on 8/11/21 at 10:08 am to Bronson2017
I have them in flower beds but not for the lawn. I would do it again. I bought 2 walking sprinklers and 2 100' water hoses. In June - September, if we go a week with no rain, I'll pull them out and run them. Needless to say, I haven't pulled them out this year. It's hard to replicate a good rain. I did some figuring, I have 14k sq ft of lawn. I have to run a hose spigot for over 5 hours straight to equal a 1/2" of rain.
Camera for recording high school games
Posted by JDat on 7/29/21 at 8:03 am
Looking to see if anyone has any suggestions or experience recording full sided games. In the past we've used a traditional video camera on a tripod. Quality is a little low and takes someone to operate the tripod. Wanting to possibly spend the money on something better. Something I can set up and forget it. I looked at the Veo system, but looks like that requires some type of membership??? Something that would track the ball would be nice. Don't want the device where a player has to where the chip.
Appreciate any help ya'll got!
Appreciate any help ya'll got!
Play wing back. Push them to the outside and don't stab. If you're in good shape, hustle and willing to play D will earn more respect if experience lacks. As you gain confidence, try different positions.
Show up early and find some guys to kick the ball around with before game.
Show up early and find some guys to kick the ball around with before game.
Unless its a tremendous amount, dig them up.
In my experience with dallisgrass, you can't kill it. What you see dead now, will always be dead, but more will be back next summer. Dallisgrass has a rhizome. If you don't get that up, next year it will push up new growth. A big rhizome is about half the length of your pinky.
Also, if seeds have been dumped in that area, put a pre-emerg down.
In my experience with dallisgrass, you can't kill it. What you see dead now, will always be dead, but more will be back next summer. Dallisgrass has a rhizome. If you don't get that up, next year it will push up new growth. A big rhizome is about half the length of your pinky.
Also, if seeds have been dumped in that area, put a pre-emerg down.
re: Using retaining wall block for flower beds - proper prep?
Posted by JDat on 6/29/21 at 4:16 pm to RaginCajunz
I didn't put a limestone base or wire mat. Now, it was all close to my house and there was A4 fill dirt, so it was pretty compact. I think you may be going a little overkill with the limestone and the wire. Not sure how compact your ground is, but maybe just the wire if you're nervous. I also put pea gravel against the stones to help let the water out. but if you're only going 2 stones high, I don't think that's really necessary.
Two things I learned along the way.
1. It's easier to dig a shovel wide trench, and then fill the bag cement as a leveling base. The trench walls help keep it in place. The first run I did, I scraped with a tractor, but it was taking a lot of cement as it would push out from the sides as I tapped them level.
2. If you use the same stones I did, I found that the depth of them varied slightly. So I ended up moving my string to run on the backside of the stone and that worked much better.
And get a torpedo level, a rubber mallet, and a pop up tent. LOL.
Two things I learned along the way.
1. It's easier to dig a shovel wide trench, and then fill the bag cement as a leveling base. The trench walls help keep it in place. The first run I did, I scraped with a tractor, but it was taking a lot of cement as it would push out from the sides as I tapped them level.
2. If you use the same stones I did, I found that the depth of them varied slightly. So I ended up moving my string to run on the backside of the stone and that worked much better.
And get a torpedo level, a rubber mallet, and a pop up tent. LOL.
re: Using retaining wall block for flower beds - proper prep?
Posted by JDat on 6/29/21 at 11:16 am to RaginCajunz
I did something similar, but I used the stones in the pic that you said you didn't want. I dug a trench, and then used dry bagged cement instead of sand. Used that to level and as a base. Ran my first row of stones and then wet it all down and let it sit 24 hrs. When adding the stones on top, i used gorilla glue that comes in a caulk tube. In some spots, I'm 4 stones high. It's level, and has been up for a year and a half. Still looks good.
Also have bermuda in back yard. For a couple of months last summer I was using the reel to keep it cut at 3/4". I would cut 3 times a week. IMO it was tough to see where you cut already due to not much grass getting clipped off. I liked to get up before work and knock the back yard out. ~4k square feet and would only take me 20 minutes. The dew made it easy to see where i cut already, and the moisture helps the blade life. Only negative thing was it would throw the clippings back toward my feet. So from mid-shin down, I'd be covered. I'd actually cut barefoot so I could just hose off after. I also have no trees so didn't have to go pick up sticks prior.
If you take pride in your grass and enjoy your time in yard, it won't be a chore.
If you take pride in your grass and enjoy your time in yard, it won't be a chore.
When I first built I put rye in a few sections around the house. Bought a Great States 18" reel. It did well. If you're only doing the court area it won't be bad at all. Not sure what type of grass you have though. I would imagine if you have St. Augustine and only cut once a week it would be a chore to push.
quote:
If you cover your gutter with a screen guard, the top will still fill with small shite and clog the holes
Then you have no gutter as the water just runs off the gutter guard.
This. Had a house with gutters and lots of oaks. You're only changing the clog up point. At least with no guards you don't see the leaves piled up. If the leaves are that bad, your best low maintenance option is to remove gutters and put in rock gutter / french drain.
I did all mine with PVC. I would use the sewer pipe if I ever build again. My down spouts are 3x4. Gutter guy told me to use 4" pipe for single down spout. And go up to 6" if I ran two together. Been working good so far.
re: Herbicide Application Temperature Limits
Posted by JDat on 8/5/20 at 1:35 pm to LSUtigerME
Pretty sure it means when the average temp is above 85. I use that and MSMA on same grass. I have spot sprayed during the summer. Grass turns brown for about a week and bounces back. Spot application, you're okay, but will have brown spots. I wouldn't spray the entire yard.
don't cut it low. If you can't find someone to cut it for you after 5 days, just pick deck up high when you get back. Wait 2 days and drop to normal height.
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