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Our trip west (Big Bend, White Sands, Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce Canyon)

Posted on 2/23/21 at 11:49 pm
Posted by DLauw
SWLA
Member since Sep 2011
6086 posts
Posted on 2/23/21 at 11:49 pm
What can I say? This trip was one for the ages and I’ll never forget the time my daughter and I spent together over these 4,300+ miles.

I’m going to tell you about this trip from the very beginning. You can read it all or just enjoy the photos (I am by no means, a photographer or writer, but I did my best).

Friday 02/12
I had just gotten my Jeep back from the ex the day before (finally). I knew it needed an oil change badly. We got that done, but when we tried to pull it off the rack, it wouldn’t start.

I ordered a battery and replaced it. We hooked it up to the computer because it was throwing codes. The “auto start/stop” was the main code. Come to find out, the new Jeep’s have two batteries. The secondary battery which is located under the main battery, is a six volt that its only purpose is to run the “auto start/stop”, and it’s kind of a bitch to change.




By the time O’reilly’s delivered the new battery and we got it all reinstalled, it was 2:30 PM. We were already thirty minutes behind schedule and this had my daughter (alauw) stressing already.

We threw our bags in the truck, went through her checklist and hit the road.

Something happened on the interstate in front of us and we got in major traffic before the Texas line.



Traffic took about a half hour to get through which put us even later getting to our first stop, San Antonio.

When traffic finally opened up and the speed limit was 75, I floored it. This is the point that I found out the tires on the Jeep were out of balance bad. In 38,000 miles, the ex had never rotated them or complained that the truck shook like a motherfricker at speeds over 69mph. 69 it would be for the entire trip.


We ended up in five o’clock Friday traffic in Houston. We finally arrived in San Antonio around 10:00pm. Our plans all along had been to camp for me and car camp for alauw at various KOA’s.

We checked in and I got set up quickly.



Saturday 02/13

Sometime around 5:00am, my phone starts ringing. I missed the first call because I didn’t know where my phone was and I was still half asleep. The second time it rang, I found underneath my back in the hammock.

Alauw was calling in a frantic state for me to come help. I jumped, very un-gracefully from my hammock, slipped on my boots and ran over to the truck. She was in tears and frantic because her new puppy just shite all over the backseat of my truck, her sleeping bag and her.

She headed for the showers and I started stripping down all the shite stained accessories. There was dog shite down the interior door panel. I grabbed the only cup I had (the one I use to soak my teeth at night), dumped it out and filled it with water to start cleaning it up.

Because of all the excitement, I didn’t realize the temps had dropped well below freezing. When we done cleaning and packing up, I went to get my teeth from the picnic table and found they were frozen to it.



All packed up, thawed out and glued in, we got on the road. Conditions had deteriorated over night and there was a ton of ice on the road and 18-wheelers in the ditches and median.

We were tracking at speeds no higher than 40mph and as low as 20mph when it got really bad. At this point, I considered cancelling everything and heading back. I knew we wouldn't reach Big Bend until super late.

But! We pushed on.
This post was edited on 3/5/21 at 7:08 am
Posted by DLauw
SWLA
Member since Sep 2011
6086 posts
Posted on 2/23/21 at 11:49 pm to
We got off I10 in Marathon to head towards the park. There was no ice here. It was all powdery snow. I set the cruise at 50 and headed down 385 towards the park.

My daughter found a place to lodge for the night with after hours check-in and booked it. As we drove through the park under the cover of darkness (like really dark) on a road that was dry and clear, I looked up and saw the clouds had cleared.

I pulled over and killed the truck and lights. Alauw and I stood there with jaws agape, and just stared at the stars. My god, it was like being at a planetarium times a thousand. I don’t remember the last time that I saw so many stars. There was zero light pollution from the ground and the crescent moon was a just a sliver low on the dark horizon.

We got to our “la casita” around 10:00pm that rests just outside the park entrance in Terlingua.

Sunday 02/14

Up early, we hit the park. Alauw’s plans consisted of hiking one particular trail and then exploring the rest of the day.

Side story: when checking in at the ranger station, the ranger asked what part of Louisiana we were from. Come to find out, this ol’ boy was from Pineville. I asked how he ended up here and he said, “I came out here for a visit in the 90’s and just couldn’t leave.”

We hit the Santa Elena trail with zero traffic. Because this is the only trail we hiked here, I can’t say what trails have a better view in this park, but damn. It was a gorgeous 1.7 mile round trip hike.













After that hike, we found another trail that lead to the ruins of some the original settlers, farmers and ranchers in the area.





This post was edited on 2/24/21 at 9:40 am
Posted by DLauw
SWLA
Member since Sep 2011
6086 posts
Posted on 2/23/21 at 11:49 pm to
We drove from there and found River Road. The sign at the entrance tells you to have a full tank of gas before you enter. River Road is a maintained dirt, sand and rock road that runs for like 50 miles through the park. It connects to other roads and hiking trails. It’s a damn fun drive in a 4wd vehicle at 25-30mph. The views along the way are gorgeous.











There are also “unmaintained” connector roads that are four wheel drive only. We took one named Black Gap Pass and I was able to get in a some light rock crawling in the Jeep.

I didn’t take as many pictures as I should have at Big Bend. Once alauw goes through her photos, I may add some more.

Around 4pm we started heading back to the La Casita. As we drove, we could see the winter storm coming over the mountains. Damn, it was beautiful and scary at the same time. We didn’t get photos.

Being that we’re both newly (relatively) single, I made us valentines dinner. Ribeyes, asparagus and a salad. I grilled the ribeyes on my little pit that alauw got me a few Christmases ago and watched the storm come in.









Monday 02/15

The next morning, the roads were completely iced over and we received about 3” of snow.





Alauw made a call that morning to the owners to let them know we would be staying another night. The roads were impassable, but I kept an eye on them and the weather. Around noon, everything had begun to thaw. I walked to the road and determined that we were good to go.

The owners let us cancel our night and allow us a late checkout and we hit the road again. I still need to leave a review of their place.

We made a stop right past Marfa, Texas at the Prada Store.



Interesting, to say the least. Marfa is apparently some hippy artist town and the store is an exhibit put on by the local artist and backers. It’s actually filled with Prada shoes and bags. Art. Huh.

Because our itinerary was now skewed, alauw called ahead and cancelled our reservations at all stops for the rest of the week. We would now make them on the fly.
This post was edited on 2/24/21 at 9:44 am
Posted by DLauw
SWLA
Member since Sep 2011
6086 posts
Posted on 2/23/21 at 11:50 pm to
Our next booking was near White Sands National Park. We booked a cabin at the KOA and arrived a little after 8:00pm. It was pretty damn chilly and the heater was a warm welcome, as was the whiskey.





Tuesday 02/16

After packing our freshly flipped laundry, we were out the door around 7:00am. We hit White Sands National Park right around opening.

This park is cool. It’s just dunes of white sand for as far as the eye can see. Under the cover of snow, it looked even more amazing. Hiking trails are marked with sticks because there are no other landmarks. We toured the boardwalk and then traipsed out across the dunes.















We were back on the road a little after lunch, headed to Flagstaff, Arizona. We arrived a little after 7:00pm. We got checked in to our KOA cabin and decided to hit some breweries. We went to Flagstaff Brewing Co and Dark Sky Brewing Co. Both were great and I really enjoyed Flagstaff’s downtown scene.







The pizza was pretty awesome too.

This post was edited on 2/24/21 at 9:46 am
Posted by DLauw
SWLA
Member since Sep 2011
6086 posts
Posted on 2/23/21 at 11:50 pm to
Wednesday 02/17

Early, we awoke, packed and hit the road, headed for the Grand Canyon National Park.









On our way to the park, we booked a helicopter flight over the canyon.











I have a giant fear of heights. As awesome as the ride was, I was terrified the entire time. I recorded several videos of the views. After watching them, they honestly do no justice to the scenery. It’s just something you need to see for yourself to really understand and appreciate the GCNP and all its glory.

We headed out after the helicopter ride back through Flagstaff towards our ultimate goal of Zion National Park.

We had planned to stop at the Petrified Forest National Park but it was closed so we drove on. We made another unplanned stop.

We happened upon the Marble Canyons and the Navajo Bridge. We got down to take in the sights. What an unbelievable stop!

While taking a few photos of the scenery, we happened upon two guys talking. I asked them what they were discussing.

One of them loaned me his binoculars and said those birds you see are California Condors. There’s only like 400 of them left and every one of them is numbered. Here we were on some random stop and got to check out these rare birds. There were three of them and I could make out the numbers on two: 13 and 19.











This post was edited on 2/24/21 at 9:48 am
Posted by DLauw
SWLA
Member since Sep 2011
6086 posts
Posted on 2/23/21 at 11:50 pm to
Right up the road from there is Cliff Dwellers, AZ. We stopped and snapped a few photos. When you have the time, look it up. It’s really great history.





We checked into our next KOA cabin around 8:00pm. Near Zion National Park and hit the hay early.

Thursday 02/18

We awoke early and hit the park and found a parking spot near the trailhead where alauw had planned to hike.

The trail’s name is Angel’s Landing. It’s about a 1500’ climb over 2.5 miles. Pretty damn steep. She claims she showed me video of this hike, but I really don’t think she did.













Now, back to the video she supposedly showed me and my fear of heights. That last picture is taken next to a sign where the sane people stop. On it, it reads: “Since 2014, ten people have died on the Angel’s Landing Trail”.

To continue on, one must commit to being 300-500’ above the canyon floor (either side) on a mountain no wider than a table. There are chains to hold on to in the most treacherous spots. I made it past the first two sets of chains.









This post was edited on 2/24/21 at 9:51 am
Posted by DLauw
SWLA
Member since Sep 2011
6086 posts
Posted on 2/23/21 at 11:50 pm to
I had a bit of a panic attack right before the last stretch. Alauw said that this is what she came here to do. I told her I couldn’t do it and I would hike back down to the “sane stop”, for her to be careful and I would wait for her there.

I sat there by our gear for forty long minutes waiting for her to return. I felt so bad for pussing out and not going with her. When she finally returned safely, to me, she was so damn excited to tell me how awesome it was.



We headed back to the little tourist town of Springdale outside the park’s gates for lunch and a brew at the brewery. The steamed clam soup was great.



After lunch, we drove around the park and took photos.



















We sacked out at the cabin for the rest of the evening and fell asleep early.
This post was edited on 2/23/21 at 11:57 pm
Posted by DLauw
SWLA
Member since Sep 2011
6086 posts
Posted on 2/23/21 at 11:50 pm to
Friday 02/19

We woke, packed and headed out early again. We arrived around 9:00am to Bryce Canyon National Park. Because of the heavy snowfall days prior, we weren’t able to make any hikes. We did a driving tour and got out at all the posted vantage points to take photos.





















We headed from BCNP to Durango to stay the night in a little bit of luxury, warmth and good cuisine at the Doubletree. On the way, we made one last stop. We just had to see Horse Shoe Bend. It was about a two hour time-killer but Jesus! It was worth it!





We got to the hotel around 8:00pm. We ordered room service and I headed down to the lounge. I visited with the bartender for a bit and found out that this was her first night back since COVID. The lounge had literally opened back up the day I got there.

We were headed back home on a two day drive in the morning so I was in bed by 10:00pm
This post was edited on 2/24/21 at 9:56 am
Posted by DLauw
SWLA
Member since Sep 2011
6086 posts
Posted on 2/23/21 at 11:50 pm to
Saturday 02/20

We packed up early and headed out. We were making one last stop in Abilene, Texas before the final leg home.

On our way, we passed through Fort Sumner. Well, you have to stop and see Billy the Kid’s grave. Right?



Eleven hours on the road, we checked in to a hotel in Abilene. I crashed hard.

Sunday 02/21

After five years away in Spain (Air Force station) my sister and brother-in-law had finally made it back to the states. I called them up and met them at Denny’s for breakfast. I got to meet my nice and nephew for the first time. Elizabeth was born a month before they shipped out and Ian was born in Spain.



After breakfast, we got back on the road and headed home.

This was a trip of a lifetime for me, not just because of the sights and activities, but because alauw graduates this summer and will be moving away. I seriously doubt we’ll ever do something like this again together. Who knows though, right?

During the driving over the week, I found it amazing how I could be driving at 5000' elevation on a desolate desert floor and then 15 minutes later, be driving through an alpine forest covered with snow at 8-9000’ elevation. The weather changed on us quite a bit and made the driving pretty tough at times. From frozen roads to whiteout snow fall, the driving was tense, to say the least. Then, all of a sudden, we’d be driving in the desert again.

The following are just some random photos I took while driving when I wasn’t scared to let go of the wheel with one hand.

















Continental Divide


















This post was edited on 2/24/21 at 2:24 pm
Posted by DLauw
SWLA
Member since Sep 2011
6086 posts
Posted on 2/24/21 at 12:13 am to
Also, please forgive any misspelled words, I broke my glasses on the trip.
Posted by TimeOutdoors
AK
Member since Sep 2014
12123 posts
Posted on 2/24/21 at 3:44 am to
That was a pleasure to read. Sounds like an amazing trip. Great photos. Pretty sure this is the first trip report I’ve read with “frozen teeth”.
Posted by way_south
Member since Jul 2017
814 posts
Posted on 2/24/21 at 6:47 am to
What a fantastic trip
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38820 posts
Posted on 2/24/21 at 7:04 am to
bravo
Posted by lsunurse
Member since Dec 2005
129005 posts
Posted on 2/24/21 at 7:09 am to
Looks like you and your daughter had an amazing trip together! This is something both of you will cherish for the rest of your lives.

And yes....downtown Flagstaff is really cool. Flag is my favorite little getaway from Scottsdale. I always recommend anyone visiting AZ to make time for a trip to Flagstaff.
Posted by hungryone
river parishes
Member since Sep 2010
11987 posts
Posted on 2/24/21 at 7:24 am to
Epic trip, frozen teeth and all.
Hope the two of you make time for an annual getaway together. Life is short, enjoy it whenever you can.
Posted by Salmon
On the trails
Member since Feb 2008
83583 posts
Posted on 2/24/21 at 7:38 am to
amazing trip man!

having 2 daughters myself, I hope that I'll be able to do something similar in the future
Posted by wickowick
Head of Island
Member since Dec 2006
45814 posts
Posted on 2/24/21 at 7:48 am to
Awesome trip
Posted by ccard257
Fort Worth, TX
Member since Oct 2012
1311 posts
Posted on 2/24/21 at 9:15 am to
Now that's a great road trip! Well done
Posted by bamapoet
North Alabama
Member since Nov 2011
532 posts
Posted on 2/24/21 at 9:24 am to
Thanks for sharing. Great pictures of beautiful places. I'm sure you will remember this trip with your baby girl, until your last days.
Posted by speckledawg
Somewhere Salty
Member since Nov 2016
3918 posts
Posted on 2/24/21 at 9:44 am to
Awesome trip!

quote:

Angel's Landing


I understand the panic at that last stop up, but definitely worth finishing. Unreal at the top.
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