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Started By
Message
re: Wood working question- Update: Finished pics on page 3
Posted on 6/20/14 at 8:13 pm to GoldenSombrero
Posted on 6/20/14 at 8:13 pm to GoldenSombrero
Radial arm saw
1
Posted on 6/20/14 at 8:22 pm to killinme_smalls
Radial ATM saw remains best tool as mentioned before.
Wood glue and sawdust is sub par for durability. You want a good epoxy. Expensive but easily workable and stronger than the original wood is west system epoxy. Add VERY FINE saw dust from same wood to add color for filling cracks. I also agree I would go nice and thick 3/4" or more with my tiles.
Wood glue and sawdust is sub par for durability. You want a good epoxy. Expensive but easily workable and stronger than the original wood is west system epoxy. Add VERY FINE saw dust from same wood to add color for filling cracks. I also agree I would go nice and thick 3/4" or more with my tiles.
Posted on 6/20/14 at 9:37 pm to Bleeding purple
Thanks for all the advice. Much appreciated. Would a radial arm saw cut a full 6" deep on a 12" blade? I haven't located any in my area for sale. We don't have a lot of DIY types in NWA I guess. 
not many options outside of Lowes and Home Depot that I know of.
I'm assuming the epoxy sands down pretty well? Would it make any difference if I filled the outside cracks with epoxy before cutting? The keep the tiles from breaking. Maybe that's too time consuming idk.
The flooring I'm butting up to is 3/8", but I guess the transition wouldn't be much different than from tile to a hardwood.
not many options outside of Lowes and Home Depot that I know of. I'm assuming the epoxy sands down pretty well? Would it make any difference if I filled the outside cracks with epoxy before cutting? The keep the tiles from breaking. Maybe that's too time consuming idk.
The flooring I'm butting up to is 3/8", but I guess the transition wouldn't be much different than from tile to a hardwood.
Posted on 6/21/14 at 8:57 am to GoldenSombrero
Filing the cracks (checks) will be hard because the epoxy will drip out of other areas. You can use duct tape to stop the epoxy from leaking out of other areas but the epoxy may not fill all viods. I have a 16" industrial radial arm saw with a fence that may cut thru your beams without having to remove the guard. I can check today. I also have a 36" bandsaw that I wouldn't attempt to use for your project without a proper fence/guide.
White oak is a very hard wood to dry. Even though your beams are old and dry on the surface, the center moisture content may be well above 20 percent. When you cut, they may start to warp, twist and crack. End grain dries super fast, which isn't a good thing.
White oak is a very hard wood to dry. Even though your beams are old and dry on the surface, the center moisture content may be well above 20 percent. When you cut, they may start to warp, twist and crack. End grain dries super fast, which isn't a good thing.
Posted on 6/21/14 at 11:21 am to GoldenSombrero
Problem is, not many people have the pockets for industrial sized saws to do this in one pass. So, improvise. Turn it over, line it up, and finish the cut.
Posted on 6/21/14 at 11:43 am to GoldenSombrero
skil saw
Posted on 6/21/14 at 1:39 pm to tigersownall
It would take in excess of a 14 inch blade to get thru a 6 inch board.
Just use a stop and flip it. You're making this too hard.
Just use a stop and flip it. You're making this too hard.
Posted on 6/21/14 at 3:10 pm to bbvdd
5" cut on my 14" blade and 6 1/2" on my 16" blade. I'm in Mandeville if you need help.
Posted on 6/21/14 at 11:16 pm to Sparkplug#1
Thanks sparkplug for the offer. But I'm in Northwest Arkansas. At any rate I had them ripped in half today. I now have 6x4 posts and can cross cut with my miter saw.
Posted on 6/22/14 at 12:19 am to GoldenSombrero
Made a small sample on some concrete board. Gonna let set up overnight and see how sturdy it feels. But this is the general idea and look. Will also sand the beams down a little to remove some of the roughness on edges before cutting more.
Posted on 6/22/14 at 1:34 am to GoldenSombrero
The roughness on the edges can be handled with a planer which will also make them uniform in size. Watch out for knots so plane as little at a time as possible. Good luck and post final pics.
Posted on 6/22/14 at 6:00 am to GoldenSombrero
If you plan on putting any kind of stain on it do not use wood glue not saw dust to fill the cracks. Wood glue WILL NOT TAKE STAIN. It'll be really light compared to everything else. The other problem is that saw dust TAKES TOO MUCH STAIN. In one scenario you have wood filler that is too light, in the next it is too dark. Your best bet is to get a good wood filler that will accept stain that is similarly colored to your floor. The only way to figure this out it to buy a couple small amounts of filler, use it on a test board, sand it, stain it and us which ever one is best. Wood will darken, white oak only slightly, in sunlight over time... so if your filler is just slightly darker than the wood, thats okay.
Posted on 7/22/14 at 5:44 pm to Lpmann3
So here is the final product, except for finish coat, for any of you who were curious how it turned out. I was pretty happy with, but learned a few things I'd do differently next time.
Posted on 7/22/14 at 5:53 pm to GoldenSombrero
Nice. It looks cool as hell. I hope that the end grain can hold up.
Posted on 7/22/14 at 6:00 pm to DonChowder
It does look very nice. Hope it holds up well.
Posted on 7/22/14 at 6:22 pm to eyepooted
I like it. I would float it with epoxy or wet bar.
Posted on 7/22/14 at 6:29 pm to GoldenSombrero
Looks great! 
Posted on 7/22/14 at 6:40 pm to DownSouthDave
Really does look good.
Posted on 7/22/14 at 6:45 pm to GoldenSombrero
it looks almost like bricks, but better..
I'd rent a drum floor sander and get that completely flat and then use multiple coats of a real good floor finish
I'd rent a drum floor sander and get that completely flat and then use multiple coats of a real good floor finish
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