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Testing new bilge pumps for boat

Posted on 3/12/19 at 9:38 pm
Posted by ctiger69
Member since May 2005
31030 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 9:38 pm
My bass boat currently has one 800 gph bilge pump and I though adding another bilge pump would be a fun easy project.

I read decent reviews online on Johnson bilge pumps. So I bought a Spx 1000 gph and a heavy duty Johnson 1600 gph. Both are 12 volt. I decided to test them out before I install one of them. Tested the 1000 gph first. This thing is tiny. It can fit into some really small places.


•Test 1000 gph bilge pump

I had a big plastic square storage container you can buy at Target or Wal-Mart.
20 gallons of water.
3 feet of hose, 3/4 internal smooth diameter.
3/4 through hull fitting.
All connections tight with hose clamps.
Hose rises up 1 foot over the side of the container.

Tested twice and my pump rate was 486 gph.

•Test 1600 gph bilge pump

20 gallons
3 feet of hose, 1 1/8 internal smooth diameter
1 1/8 through hull fitting
Connections tight.

Tested twice and my pump rate was 685 gph.



Manufactur ratings for each pump with a 3 foot head is stated below and in bold is what I got.

1000 bilge= 800 gph (486 gph)
1600 bilge= 1550 gph (685 gph)


Talk about under performing. After I return these there is a 1000 gph proline at Bass Pro I can test out. I have read bad reviews on Rule pumps but I guess I need to test them out.


Any recommendations?



This post was edited on 3/13/19 at 7:58 am
Posted by Barneyrb
NELA
Member since May 2016
7142 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 9:46 pm to
What is your voltage at the pump? I'm not talking battery voltage but through all the circuitry including the switch.
Posted by Redlos
Baton Rouge
Member since Jul 2005
1175 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 9:56 pm to
What was the orig 800 performing at? I wouldn’t be that worried about hitting a spec if the new pumps are better than the orig. also the biggest benefit I see is some redundancy in your bilges having 2 pumps. I have no idea what mine actually pump at, but unless you strike and damage your Hull does total gph really matter?
Posted by LEASTBAY
Member since Aug 2007
16498 posts
Posted on 3/12/19 at 10:13 pm to
Also check your wiring. The bigger you go the more heat. Gonna need thicker wires.
Posted by ctiger69
Member since May 2005
31030 posts
Posted on 3/13/19 at 5:25 am to
quote:

What is your voltage at the pump? I'm not talking battery voltage but through all the circuitry including the switch.


I don’t know what the voltage was and there was not a switch for the test. For my test I took the bilge pump wires and hooked them directly to a battery which is a group 27 fully charged.
This post was edited on 3/13/19 at 5:33 am
Posted by Timmayy
Houston
Member since Mar 2016
1675 posts
Posted on 3/13/19 at 6:55 am to
Battery voltage can be misleading.

For instance the wattage rating of JL amps is vastly different for 14.5 alternator charging voltage vs 13.2 battery voltage no alternator assuming 6 fully charged 2.2 volt cells.

My guess is there is a bit of that playing here as well as a few other factors.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
71862 posts
Posted on 3/13/19 at 7:01 am to
You're bucking way more than 3 feet of head pushing 500 gph through a 3/8 ID hose probably.

To really test it you need a way to check discharge pressure of the pump and a curve for the pump. I'm sure its right where they claim. 3 feet of head is almost no pressure.
Posted by Cypressknee
Member since Jul 2017
1455 posts
Posted on 3/13/19 at 7:24 am to
Surprised the I.D. is 3/8” on both pumps for the discharge. I ordered a Rule 750 auto yesterday and also looked at the 500, both called for 3/4” discharge lines. Grant it, the I.D. of the discharge line on the pump is probably only 1/2”. I would imagine 3/8” would reduce flow.
Posted by ctiger69
Member since May 2005
31030 posts
Posted on 3/13/19 at 7:58 am to
Sorry. That was a typo on my part.

The test hose was 3/4 internal and through hull fitting was 3/4.
This post was edited on 3/13/19 at 8:00 am
Posted by Clames
Member since Oct 2010
19411 posts
Posted on 3/13/19 at 8:18 am to
quote:

Talk about under performing. After I return these there is a 1000 gph proline at Bass Pro I can test out. I have read bad reviews on Rule pumps but I guess I need to test them out.



Doesn't matter what you buy you'll get similar results. Like buying a shopvac rated for "5 HP". Those pumps probably do hit their advertised flow rates in a laboratory with an adjustable power supply and a calibrated flow meter. You'll never see that in your testing though. I have a dedicated 50A 12 - 15VDC adjystable power supply for messing with this stuff, much different than using a battery.
Posted by Boat Motor Bandit
Member since Jun 2016
1891 posts
Posted on 3/13/19 at 8:22 am to
I think you wasted time off your life expectancy. Hook it back up the way it was and go fishing. If you have a leak that is so bad that any of those bilges fail to keep up your in a bind anyway. You over thought the whole process and reasoning and got lost.
Posted by ctiger69
Member since May 2005
31030 posts
Posted on 3/13/19 at 9:27 am to
quote:

I think you wasted time off your life expectancy. Hook it back up the way it was


The old bilge pump is still there. Was doing this project for fun when I am not fishing and to keep my mind off my stressful job.
Posted by mdomingue
Lafayette, LA
Member since Nov 2010
45746 posts
Posted on 3/13/19 at 9:49 am to
The only real way to know your head pressure would be to have a gauge at the discharge of the pump. These are centrifugal pumps and if you had 3 ft of hose pointing up to get 3 ft of head, you had more than 3 ft of head unless on the discharge due to friction losses/restrictions. Each fitting, turn, or elbow adds effective head to the system.

Long and short, either will do the trick, I would say.
Posted by Miketheseventh
Member since Dec 2017
6965 posts
Posted on 3/13/19 at 9:55 am to
He’s using 3/4” id hose on one and 1 1/8” on the other.
Posted by Tridentds
Sugar Land
Member since Aug 2011
23751 posts
Posted on 3/13/19 at 10:44 am to
quote:

Talk about under performing.


You have to consider the design. The impeller is not in contact at all with the housing and this is by design. If you have a tight fit it will pump more efficiently with a head no doubt. However, now you will have a hard time with trash getting past the impeller. The tighter the fit the more likely something like a small piece of pine straw is going to cause the impeller to jamb up and not pump at all. Of course the more clearance for trash then you have "head pressure" induced bypass so it looks like it is under performing or under powered. The pump is pumping 800 gph but letting 100, 200 etc... come back past between the impeller and impeller housing depending on how much water you are lifting (head = water weight) or what kind of restrictions are in the downstream plumbing.

Not sure if the pumps are under performing or not. You need to consider other factors and if you need a second pump or just want redundancy for safety then go for it.
This post was edited on 3/13/19 at 10:48 am
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