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Started By
Message
re: Stihl ms311 or ms261?
Posted on 3/7/13 at 6:51 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Posted on 3/7/13 at 6:51 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Very good. fricker feels like it has a 350 with a 4-barrel under that orange hood
It's a hoss. I have a couple of loggers that prefer it over the 440.
quote:
I'll just switch to a skip chain on the long bar if I think it's catching too much hell.
You'll cut slower but it'll be easier. If you're using it properly, you shouldn't have a problem with the saw bogging down with standard chain though.
quote:
He told me it's not good to run a 20" bar on that saw because it will over-rev and blow up.
He's halfway right. Most people don't know how to properly run a saw. If you don't know what you're doing, you CAN burn it up with a 20". That being said, it's tough to do. A 20" bar is what Stihl actually recommends for a 391. You'll get good performance either way, but it'll be slightly better with a 20".
quote:
I'm buying my 20" bar somewhere else now
I'm sure some will disagree with me here, but go with a Stihl bar. Oregon makes a decent bar but they have slightly fallen off in their quality control department the last few years. People bitch about Stihl bars "using more oil" but you'll get way more life out of them that way. They're designed like that to extend longevity. A gallon of stihl bar oil is $12.99. A 25" bar is $63. The extra oil is worth it.
1
Posted on 3/7/13 at 6:57 pm to Srbtiger06
I've always used 5w30 for bar oil. Is the "chain and bar oil" really any better?
I like that stihl bars use plenty oil. Oil is cheap. Nothing sucks like that big smokey mess halfway through a cut when you find out you just burnt your bar up.
Im trying to figure out if I should have bought it with a 20". The more I look at it, the more I realize how fricking long a 25" bar is
I've bought so much stihl shite and haven't even gotten a hat yet
I like that stihl bars use plenty oil. Oil is cheap. Nothing sucks like that big smokey mess halfway through a cut when you find out you just burnt your bar up.
Im trying to figure out if I should have bought it with a 20". The more I look at it, the more I realize how fricking long a 25" bar is
I've bought so much stihl shite and haven't even gotten a hat yet
Posted on 3/7/13 at 7:09 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
I've always used 5w30 for bar oil. Is the "chain and bar oil" really any better?
The advantage of bar and chain oil is that it's formulated FOR a chainsaw. It is designed to go through the saw's oiling system and through the bar and chain without slinging too much off and becoming ineffective. I see tons of customers that use used motor oil and they always have more oiler problems and their bars and chains shite out quicker.
If you're just using standard 5W30 you have to look at the cost. $4 a quart for 5W30, or $16 a gallon. Stihl bar and chain oil is $13 for a gallon (that's what we sell it for at least). 5W30 isn't ideal for chainsaws. Stihl B&C oil is.
quote:
Im trying to figure out if I should have bought it with a 20". The more I look at it, the more I realize how fricking long a 25" bar is
Depends. What did you pay with the 25" if you don't mind me asking?
This post was edited on 3/7/13 at 7:10 pm
Posted on 3/7/13 at 7:12 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I have always just used the standard mix oil and the standard bar oil. Out of the stuff that I have used, Stihl burns up the slowest, which is good. Make sure you get the oiler adjusted properly.
A bar starts off looking like a U bracket. The top wears down over time and kind of starts mushrooming on both sides. The chain eventually starts rolling over on each side, no matter how tight you put it, and wears in the wrong spot. A single bastard will take care of the outside, and I have just used really rough sandpaper or a bar file on the inside of the U-channel.
Another thing you want to pay attention to is the slop in the sprocket at the end of the bar, and how much it is worn. They are replaceable on the E bars, I believe.
The main drive sprocket also wears out every 10 or so hard hours of use.
I think I have your email, but am in New Orleans and don't know when I am getting back. I will email you when I figure it out
Eta: I have run one with ATF once because that was all I had. It looked like somebody Seafoamed me
The Stihl bar oil, if set up to oil correctly, always lasted longer than a tank of fuel for me. That is great because I just fill it up every time I needed fuel. I thought the Oregon chains were kinda junky and just paid the extra $$ for a Stihl bar
A bar starts off looking like a U bracket. The top wears down over time and kind of starts mushrooming on both sides. The chain eventually starts rolling over on each side, no matter how tight you put it, and wears in the wrong spot. A single bastard will take care of the outside, and I have just used really rough sandpaper or a bar file on the inside of the U-channel.
Another thing you want to pay attention to is the slop in the sprocket at the end of the bar, and how much it is worn. They are replaceable on the E bars, I believe.
The main drive sprocket also wears out every 10 or so hard hours of use.
I think I have your email, but am in New Orleans and don't know when I am getting back. I will email you when I figure it out
Eta: I have run one with ATF once because that was all I had. It looked like somebody Seafoamed me
The Stihl bar oil, if set up to oil correctly, always lasted longer than a tank of fuel for me. That is great because I just fill it up every time I needed fuel. I thought the Oregon chains were kinda junky and just paid the extra $$ for a Stihl bar
This post was edited on 3/7/13 at 7:18 pm
Posted on 3/7/13 at 7:17 pm to Hammertime
quote:
Another thing you want to pay attention to is the slop in the sprocket at the end of the bar, and how much it is worn. They are replaceable on the E bars, I believe.
They are.
quote:
A bar starts off looking like a U bracket. The top wears down over time and kind of starts mushrooming on both sides.
Easiest way to tell if your bar is going to crap is if it's 'sharp' on the edges. Like you said, it'll mushroom out and the edges will be sharp. Best way I can describe it.
quote:
The chain eventually starts rolling over on each side, no matter how tight you put it, and wears in the wrong spot
The key is to not over tighten it. General rule of thumb is to leave enough slack to where you can grab the chain about midway down the bar and pull it up and still see most of the drive link. You don't want it sagging, but you don't want it too tight...that'll just wear everything down quicker.
quote:
Make sure you get the oiler adjusted properly.
This cracks me up because of the shite I see. People come in griping that the saw uses too much oil so we tune it down. Then they gripe that they're going through chains too fast because it isn't oiling enough. There is no pleasing some folks
This post was edited on 3/7/13 at 7:19 pm
Posted on 3/7/13 at 7:19 pm to Srbtiger06
I paid 630 out the door with a 6 pack of the synthetic oil.
Posted on 3/7/13 at 7:27 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
I paid 630 out the door with a 6 pack of the synthetic oil.
By our pricing, you came out pretty damn good. Tax and all we do a 391 with a 20" and a 6-pack of synthetic for $616.
I wanna say a 25" bar and chain combo is about $25 more plus tax. We have a pretty high tax rate so if you got it for $650 or under you did well.
This post was edited on 3/7/13 at 7:31 pm
Posted on 3/7/13 at 7:30 pm to Srbtiger06
Yea I have no complaints about the price.
They had a 440 right next to it SCREEMING my name.
They had a 440 right next to it SCREEMING my name.
Posted on 3/7/13 at 7:33 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
They had a 440 right next to it SCREEMING my name.
You should have bought it. Seriously. We have had loggers offer us $200+ over MSRP for one. Word has gotten out that they quit making them. I got one right before they stopped that I'm holding on to just for that reason
Posted on 3/7/13 at 7:34 pm to Srbtiger06
Yea I saw you say that.
My luck they'd start making em again and I'd be stuck with a monster of a saw which I may or may not be man enough to handle.
My luck they'd start making em again and I'd be stuck with a monster of a saw which I may or may not be man enough to handle.
Posted on 3/7/13 at 7:40 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
My luck they'd start making em again and I'd be stuck with a monster of a saw which I may or may not be man enough to handle.
They really aren't that bad. I doubt they reboot them though. They quit them a few years ago due to EPA shite. Eventually, the forest service bitched enough about the 441s that the EPA let them make the 440 again. I had quite a month of sales once word spread
Posted on 3/7/13 at 7:46 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I had one that I used to bring all over the place. It was my main saw until I got a 460. On roofs, up in trees, in the bucket trucks, everywhere. I was easier to cut something on the ground with a bigger bar than leaning down and doing it. Start working with a 660 and a 36" bar or an 880 with a 5ft bar and you will learn quickly what a big saw is
IMHO, a 24" bar is the perfect size.
As far as getting the oiler adjusted correctly, aim the top of the bar at a newly cut log and run it for a couple of seconds. Oil should be sputtering out. Hard to type what the correct amount of oil is on the Internet.
Oh yeah, there are only a few things I heart, and chainsaws are one of them
Eta: god that is my favorite sound to hear at 5 in the morning
IMHO, a 24" bar is the perfect size.
As far as getting the oiler adjusted correctly, aim the top of the bar at a newly cut log and run it for a couple of seconds. Oil should be sputtering out. Hard to type what the correct amount of oil is on the Internet.
Oh yeah, there are only a few things I heart, and chainsaws are one of them
Eta: god that is my favorite sound to hear at 5 in the morning
This post was edited on 3/7/13 at 8:00 pm
Posted on 3/7/13 at 8:00 pm to Hammertime
Yea I k ow what the oil is supposed to do. I just usually set mine to where its getting low on oil when I run out of gas running it real hard
Probably a piss poor meathod, but it makes for plenty oil
Probably a piss poor meathod, but it makes for plenty oil
Posted on 3/7/13 at 8:01 pm to Hammertime
quote:
IMHO, a 24" bar is the perfect size.
That's what she said.
Posted on 3/7/13 at 8:03 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I work at a STIHL dealer, I actually have a 260. I prefer the 260 because its much lighter and it still packs a lot of power, although not as much as 311. A 260 with a 16 or an 18 inch .325 chain rips and is hard to beat.
Posted on 3/7/13 at 8:09 pm to Hammertime
I like the smell more than the sound
I love the smell.
I'm ready to go run the shite out of this one. I've ran some big shite before but the only one of my own saws I ever ran was an ms170
I love the smell.
I'm ready to go run the shite out of this one. I've ran some big shite before but the only one of my own saws I ever ran was an ms170
Posted on 3/7/13 at 9:03 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
5 pages and no pics of the new saw... Come on let see the new piece.
Posted on 3/7/13 at 9:20 pm to Hammertime
quote:
in the bucket trucks
Give me a 201 top handle
Posted on 3/7/13 at 9:21 pm to TexasTiger
Posted on 3/7/13 at 9:29 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Good looking saw.. Looks like that bitch would wear you out after a day of cutting
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