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re: Sighting in Rifle: Barrel warming question
Posted on 1/10/21 at 5:15 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Posted on 1/10/21 at 5:15 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
[quote]
I'm pretty firmly in the "never clean hunting rifle barrels" camp. I thing jewging metal stuff down the barrel is more of a liability for most people. Next season I'll test shoot then will not clean till end of season. Seems to work for me.
I did slip on some slick mud coming out Saturday evening and dropped my 0-6... landed right on the scope. Next 3weeks I'll be shooting the 35 Whelen
I'm pretty firmly in the "never clean hunting rifle barrels" camp. I thing jewging metal stuff down the barrel is more of a liability for most people. Next season I'll test shoot then will not clean till end of season. Seems to work for me.
I did slip on some slick mud coming out Saturday evening and dropped my 0-6... landed right on the scope. Next 3weeks I'll be shooting the 35 Whelen
0
Posted on 1/10/21 at 8:08 pm to No Colors
Usually when I make adjustments to my scope I bump it a few times with my fist to make sure the adjustments moved
Posted on 1/10/21 at 8:39 pm to Miketheseventh
If I had a scope that I had to tap, tap, tap after making an adjustment with the turrets I would take the scope off the rifle and throw it in the garbage.
Posted on 1/10/21 at 10:32 pm to civiltiger07
I’m poor,I can’t afford to throw $300-$500 Leupolds or Burris scopes in the trash.A very good gunsmith told me it was fairly common to have to rap on the turrets.
It doesn’t bother me as long as they hold zero after being sighted in and I can see during legal shooting hours.
It doesn’t bother me as long as they hold zero after being sighted in and I can see during legal shooting hours.
Posted on 1/10/21 at 11:14 pm to civiltiger07
quote:
With the profile of that barrel if it is to hot to touch it will definitely throw rounds.
Probably not the profile of the barrel as much as how it and the action are set in the stock and how the barrel was rifled. I glass bedded my Ruger American into a laminate stock not long after I bought it, before I started doing any serious reloading for it. One of the last times I took it to the range I probably put over 150 rounds through it that day testing various bullet weights and powder charges. Never had issues with stringing shots, one of my best results put 10 shots into a hole that I could cover with a quarter at 100yds. 155gr Palmas though I don't remember the rest if the recipe offhand. I didn't take any extra efforts to cool the barrel outside of the mandatory ceasefire periods the range had. I don't use bronze brushes in any of my firearms but do use Montanna copper killer on all my rifles.
Posted on 1/11/21 at 12:16 am to civiltiger07
quote:
If I had a scope that I had to tap, tap, tap after making an adjustment with the turrets I would take the scope off the rifle and throw it in the garbage.
I'm sure most of us got in the habit of doing that, back when we were using lower priced scopes, because that's all we could afford. Now that I have better scopes, I still do it, even though I don't know if it is really necessary. What I do know though, if I have an expensive scope, and tapping on it a little bit will hurt it, then that would mean that I bought some expensive trash. It doesn't hurt to tap on them, it's just an extra measure, so why not go ahead and do it? Or like Downshift said, dial a couple of extra clicks and then click back, it's just an extra measure and doesn't hurt a damn thing.
Posted on 1/11/21 at 12:48 am to auggie
quote:
I'm sure most of us got in the habit of doing that, back when we were using lower priced scopes
I have the USMC-issued variant of the Trijicon ACOG on one of my rifles, light tapping of the turrets after adjustment is recommended by the manufacturer and the Army marksmanship teams. It's not about price point but in how the adjustment mechanisms interact with the reticle, some scopes it benefits, others not so much. Given that the recoil impulse on most rifles is pretty violent I'd say it isn't a bad practice in any case.
Posted on 1/11/21 at 6:30 am to Clames
quote:
Probably not the profile of the barrel as much as how it and the action are set in the stock
Lots of rifles out there these days with flimsy stocks and pressure pads at the front. I owned two that were like that and they definitely did not like getting hot.
Posted on 1/11/21 at 7:40 am to No Colors
It depends on the stock to gun fit.
It is very possible that either the barrel got hot and started contacting some part of the stock. Or, gun could have loosened in stock.
Scope may not have been mounted well, after several shots, started loosening up.
The trigger could very well be an issue too.
It is very possible that either the barrel got hot and started contacting some part of the stock. Or, gun could have loosened in stock.
Scope may not have been mounted well, after several shots, started loosening up.
The trigger could very well be an issue too.
Posted on 1/11/21 at 7:50 am to LSUA 75
quote:
I’m poor,I can’t afford to throw $300-$500 Leupolds or Burris scopes in the trash
Almost every rimfire I own has a $150 Nikon Prostaff on it. I make adjustments using the turrets for shooting out to 100yds plus. Dial the turret up to shoot then dial it back to my 50yd zero and it returns every time no tapping needed.
That guy that had the .243 sighted in a 25yds got frustrated with trying to bring it in at 100yds and asked me if I could do it. This was one of the Remington 770 scope combos. No telling what the scope actually cost. Shot the gun at 50yds and sure enough it was 4-5 inches high. dialed it down the appropriate amount and the scope moved what I dialed it with zero tapping.
I have a $350 Vortex on my 6.5 Grendel. No tapping required.
Think about this if a little tapping on the turret causes the reticle to move what happens when the gun is on the seat of your truck while you are driving on Louisiana roads?
This post was edited on 1/11/21 at 7:51 am
Posted on 1/11/21 at 8:10 am to civiltiger07
quote:
Almost every rimfire I own has a $150 Nikon Prostaff on it.
I've got a couple of those, and that's one of the lower priced scopes that taught me about the tapping thing. The problem was, that when I would make an adjustment, it wouldn't move the entire amount before the first shot, so the first shot after adjustment would never be where I felt it should be. Sometimes after 1 shot, it would go to where I thought it should be, sometimes 2 shots, but then it would be fine. That told me that it needed a vibration to get something in the mechanism to finish seating. So I started tapping on it before taking the first shot, and that took care of the problem. I still have that scope on a rifle and I haven't needed to adjust it in a long time. Now though, I just go ahead and tap all of them, it doesn't hurt anything.
Posted on 1/11/21 at 10:58 am to auggie
quote:
That told me that it needed a vibration to get something in the mechanism to finish seating
But vibrations from your vehicle don't move the reticle any?
Posted on 1/11/21 at 11:14 am to civiltiger07
quote:
But vibrations from your vehicle don't move the reticle any?
No, and you should understand why it doesn't. The failure of the mechanism to move as you make the adjustment is likely caused by a slight imperfection of a thread, so that movement isn't as slick as intended. It happens on all types of mechanical mechanisms, not just scopes. Manufacturing processes aren't always perfect, however, when the mechanism reaches the limit that you have dialed in at your turret, it settles in, just like it was meant to do and a spring helps hold pressure against the limit. It just needed a little help to reach the limit, probably because of an imperfection in a thread. I know you have probably experienced new screws or bolts that seemed to have tight spots and loose spots.
Posted on 1/11/21 at 11:55 am to civiltiger07
quote:
Also you need to shoot the gun at 100 yds at least. 25 yds could be to close and you could be pretty far off at 100 yds. I had a friend sight in a rifle (.243 win) at 25yds. When he went to shoot at 100yds it was shooting 9 inches high. He thought the gun was defective I told no you were probably to close at 25yds
Agree that everyone should shoot farther when possible, but you can use a 25 yard range if that's all you have access to. They key is to understand where your POI needs to be at 25 yards to put it where you want at 100 or 200.
I think your buddy's result occurs from people not taking the time to actually look at a ballistics table and thinking that what happens at 25 yards is pretty close to what happens at 100. Not so much. If you sighted in a 150 gr.30-06 1.5" high (pretty common thing to do at 100) at 25 yards, you'd get the 9" high result at 100 that your friend experienced and you'd have a zero in the 450 yard range.
Typically, you'll want to be a little low at 25 for a 100 or 200 yard zero. There are plenty of free apps you can put on your phone before you go to make sure you get it right.
Posted on 1/11/21 at 12:11 pm to ccard257
quote:
I think your buddy's result occurs from people not taking the time to actually look at a ballistics table and thinking that what happens at 25 yards is pretty close to what happens at 100. Not so much. If you sighted in a 150 gr.30-06 1.5" high (pretty common thing to do at 100) at 25 yards, you'd get the 9" high result at 100 that your friend experienced and you'd have a zero in the 450 yard range.
I know that was the problem, but he was sighting in the gun at 25yds to get it on paper. When he went out the 100yds and it was so far off it didn't make sense to him.
It also depends on the height of the scope above the bore and velocity.
quote:
Typically, you'll want to be a little low at 25 for a 100 or 200 yard zero. There are plenty of free apps you can put on your phone before you go to make sure you get it right.
yep have a couple of them
This post was edited on 1/11/21 at 12:35 pm
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