re: Ruger 30.06 not grouping well

trade it in, had one like that and it drove me nuts. Wasnt worth it.

If it's not floated you're pissing up a rope

Everyone has already mentioned pretty good points, but I'll throw out a couple also.

First, how big are your five shot groups?
Five shot groups are not usually great with most factory rifles.

Second, how many rounds have been through the gun?
Is the barrel broken in yet, or maybe it's time for a cleaning.
A dirty barrel can affect your accuracy.

It's about repeatable harmonics. That barrel is like a bell. You touch it while you ring it, it makes a different sound from the time before when you weren't touching it. Now if you mount something to the bell it will make that different sound every time. In other words, you're still grouping consistently. So it's 'possible' to have something touching the barrel, then site in while it's touching it and get decent groups. But if you have a barrel that's floated and stays floated, you know for sure that it's consistently going to 'ring that bell' the same way every time. With something touching the barrel, heat can move where it touches it, which changes the tune kinda like moving your fingers up the frets on a guitar. Which moves the bullet in relation to the last one.

Can you get accuracy while touching the barrel? Yes, see the old Mannlicher Schauner stocks. Is it comparable to a modern floated barrel? No.

I had a varmint heavy barrel 308 Ruger. It had a presure point as it was not free floated. Got rid of it after the action screw in the bottom would come loose after a couple of rounds no matter how muchlocktite and tight you got it. It once went off when I closed the bolt. Luckily I always gently but firmly close the bolt withthe gun on the sand bags pointed down range. Had a can-jar trigger in that gun. It Jared.

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Problems is that with both I can group or link two shots then the next four to five are erratic.

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Measuring the bullet holes center to center of the extreme spread, what size groups are you getting? I'll make some specific recs on the assumption that the accuracy is suboptimal.

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Could it be the gun, the scope, or is the gun not liking the bullets and/or gr?

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Yes, yes, yes and/or prolly not. You're going to have to work through a stepwise process to figure it out. Based on current info, I'd suspect a high point creating pressure on the stock, a problem w/ the scope, a problem w/ the rings/base or a problem w/ the action screws. Erratic shots sound more like a problem w/ the scope, ring, mounts or action screws. If there's a problem w/ a pressure point, the shots will gradually move in the direction AWAY from the pressure point.

A few things specific about Ruger. Their rifle barrels are not usually free floated the entire length of the barrel channel; there's usually a pressure point at the forend. Second, some have had signifiant accuracy issues w/ Rugers that are dependent the sequence of tightening up the 3 action screws. I worked w/ a friend's Ruger bolt action that became a LOT more accurate once I tightened the action screws in the correct sequence and torgue. I don't remember the specifics at this time, but you should be able to Google it.

1. Rule out a problem w/ the scope by changing to a scope you already know to be RELIABLE.
2. Remount the base, using BLUE Loc-Tite (NOT red). I always use the $10 Weaver bases, even on my prairie dog handguns. Easy, and cheap enough, to try your rifle w/ a Weaver base.ETA: Before installing the scope base w/ Loc-Tite, individually check the length of each screw. Put the base in place, then screw in a screw into the intended hole. If the base is not TIGHT, the screw is too long. If the screw is too long, cut off the excess w/ a Dremel tool or get a new screw. It should have a minimum of 3 threads for it to have adequate strength. If it doesn't, it's too short and will need to be replaced. Repeat this step w/ each screw in a different hole.
3. Remount the rings. I don't use Loc-Tite on the rings. Be sure the screws attaching the upper/lower rings are equally tightened. If the rings have not been lapped, do so. If you don't have the equipment to lap them or don't feel comfortable doing it, change the rings to Burris Signature Z-Rings (the ones w/ plastic inserts).
4. Check for any high spots in the barrel channel or action part of the stock.
5. As mentioned, the barrel should already be free floated from the pressure point to just in front of the action; if not, make it so. If it still doesn't shoot well, free float the pressure point at the forend of the stock. If needed, you can always recreate a pressure point on the barrel at the front tip of your stock by putting 1-2 business cards at the very front of the stock in the barrel channel. You can Google all this or look on YouTube.
6. Check the action screws as mentioned above.
7. Use a torque wrench (and follows it's recs) to adjust the mount, rings and action screws.
8. Try different ammo. Sometimes a gun barrel needs more than 3-4 shots w/ a particular load before it starts shooting that load well.
9. I don't worry to awfully much about letting a barrel cool down entirely between shots. A well bedded gun should be reasonably accurate even w/ a hot barrel. I'm leaving for a praire dog hunt in a few days. The guide said to count on 200 rounds/day. I can promise you my barrels will get hot, but the guns will still be VERY accurate.
10. Be sure the crown is not damaged.
11. Be sure the gun is clean, but use the proper equipment, i.e. a one piece steel rod (appropriate caliber) w/ a good bore guide. More gun barrels are ruined by poor cleaning technique than by being dirty.

If it's not reasonably improved w/ the above, I bet it's a more serious problem w/ the barrel/action itself. Good luck and keep us updated.

Just sayin, there was a $2500 rifle in there with a full contact stock shooting around 1/2 MOA

But but but, if I can't get 5 shot 1/2 inch groupings at 1000 yards how will I ever bring down a 100 lb deer at 50 yards?!?!??