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No-Till Food Plots
Posted on 9/1/20 at 6:44 pm
Posted on 9/1/20 at 6:44 pm
Has anyone tried this method of planting their plots? I’ve done 1 this way and it came out ok. I shoulda added more seed when I initially planted.
Another question is did you spray existing vegetation with a herbicide or just throw seed and bush hog it?
I’m leaning on not spraying and just tossing seed out and bush hog the plot.
What’s y’all opinion on any of this? Thanks
Another question is did you spray existing vegetation with a herbicide or just throw seed and bush hog it?
I’m leaning on not spraying and just tossing seed out and bush hog the plot.
What’s y’all opinion on any of this? Thanks
Posted on 9/1/20 at 6:53 pm to WillFerrellisking
quote:
Another question is did you spray existing vegetation with a herbicide or just throw seed and bush hog it?
I’m leaning on not spraying and just tossing seed out and bush hog the plot.
I would think that would be a terrible idea if you are using high dollar seed. You do not want them competing for sunlight with weeds.
Posted on 9/1/20 at 7:34 pm to WillFerrellisking
Yes, IMO you must spray the existing weeds. I’ve a lot of experience with this method, broadcasting and using a no till planter. I’ve seen pretty obvious results to indicate the crop has trouble with living competition.
Posted on 9/1/20 at 7:43 pm to WillFerrellisking
I've done no till last few years. Results last year were best yet. I spray then spread seed two weeks later and bushhog.
Posted on 9/1/20 at 7:48 pm to highcotton2
+1. If you are not going to till you must spray existing competition for growth.
Posted on 9/1/20 at 7:59 pm to Purple Spoon
I have an area that is shady and holds moisture. Weeds seem to do fine(this is an area in my yard that several deer frequent) I have sprayed and curious if I could do this?? Not going to shoot these just like seeing them.
Posted on 9/1/20 at 8:30 pm to WillFerrellisking
quote:
No-Till Food Plots
Will be a bunch of no till food plots planted this weekend
Posted on 9/1/20 at 8:33 pm to WillFerrellisking
About 10 years ago we tried to go 100% No Till, and with mixed results. This is what I would tell you.
The idea of just bush hogging and throwing seed on the ground will not work. Don't do that.
We found what worked best was to clip about the first of August to get the heavy material down. Then let thing sprout back up and grow again. But only get about calf high. Then spray with 2qts of glyphosate about the first week of Sept. That will give everything time to really melt down and lay flat.
The dead grass acts as a mulch and holds in moisture. So even when it is too dry for most others to plant, you can probably get your crop up.
We rent a No Till drill from the rental place. Several county NRCS offices also have them for rent. We plant either the last week of Sept or the first week of Oct.
Just drill wheat and oats and clover into the dead grass mulch.
The problem we had was Poanna (Poa Annua) (Kentucky Bluegrass). It is a nasty winter weed that has taken over some of our food plots. It looks great and it makes the plots green. But it has no nutritional benefit at all and it chokes out everything you plant.
We have found that deep disking buries the seed and keeps it controlled. So that makes No Till hard except for every other year or so.
We have also found a chemical that controls it. Osprey. You can spray right over the wheat and it kills the PoAnna and doesnt kill the wheat. So we are gonna try more of the No Till this year now that we have Osprey in our quiver.
In short, the only real benefit we have found is the moisture retention associated with chemical control of weeds. Really helps in dry years. In wet years, it's about the same money and better results to go conventional till.
But we are continuing to refine our process. I would eventually like to feel comfortable going 100% No Till.
The idea of just bush hogging and throwing seed on the ground will not work. Don't do that.
We found what worked best was to clip about the first of August to get the heavy material down. Then let thing sprout back up and grow again. But only get about calf high. Then spray with 2qts of glyphosate about the first week of Sept. That will give everything time to really melt down and lay flat.
The dead grass acts as a mulch and holds in moisture. So even when it is too dry for most others to plant, you can probably get your crop up.
We rent a No Till drill from the rental place. Several county NRCS offices also have them for rent. We plant either the last week of Sept or the first week of Oct.
Just drill wheat and oats and clover into the dead grass mulch.
The problem we had was Poanna (Poa Annua) (Kentucky Bluegrass). It is a nasty winter weed that has taken over some of our food plots. It looks great and it makes the plots green. But it has no nutritional benefit at all and it chokes out everything you plant.
We have found that deep disking buries the seed and keeps it controlled. So that makes No Till hard except for every other year or so.
We have also found a chemical that controls it. Osprey. You can spray right over the wheat and it kills the PoAnna and doesnt kill the wheat. So we are gonna try more of the No Till this year now that we have Osprey in our quiver.
In short, the only real benefit we have found is the moisture retention associated with chemical control of weeds. Really helps in dry years. In wet years, it's about the same money and better results to go conventional till.
But we are continuing to refine our process. I would eventually like to feel comfortable going 100% No Till.
Posted on 9/1/20 at 10:10 pm to No Colors
quote:
But we are continuing to refine our process. I would eventually like to feel comfortable going 100% No Till.
We are almost 100% no-till in our farming. You will occasionally run into wet years and have ruts that need to be worked out but for the most part on our soils it works great. We have a few fields that have not seen any kind of tillage for 40 years.
This post was edited on 9/1/20 at 10:18 pm
Posted on 9/2/20 at 6:46 am to highcotton2
That’s some pretty fields there. In my next life I want to be a farmer!
Posted on 9/2/20 at 10:19 am to WillFerrellisking
I'm going into my fourth year doing some small plots that way with reasonable, yet modest success.
I mow down to the dirt, then come back in 2-3 weeks, hose it with glyphosate, then in a week mow it down to the dirt and seed a mix of wheat/oats/turnips in the second half of October, usually ahead of a 2-3 day rain event for good germination.
There will be competition, but I've had decent stands of the wheat and oats. Turnips won't do well and I'll omit them this year.
This is on small plots no bigger than an acre and a half.
I mow down to the dirt, then come back in 2-3 weeks, hose it with glyphosate, then in a week mow it down to the dirt and seed a mix of wheat/oats/turnips in the second half of October, usually ahead of a 2-3 day rain event for good germination.
There will be competition, but I've had decent stands of the wheat and oats. Turnips won't do well and I'll omit them this year.
This is on small plots no bigger than an acre and a half.
This post was edited on 9/2/20 at 10:24 am
Posted on 9/2/20 at 3:13 pm to WillFerrellisking
You need to spray roundup at least 2 weeks before. Still need to get your soil checked and lime/fertilize accordingly. No till can make a pretty green food plot if you get your pH right and fertilize after a few weeks of planting.
Posted on 9/2/20 at 7:33 pm to Purple Spoon
Ok, say grass is knee to waist high, once I spray the grass will all lay down. If I toss seed a day or 2 after spraying why would I need to mow the grass if it’s all laying down over the seed? Has anyone done it this way? Just spray then throw seed out and let it lay over your seed.
Posted on 9/2/20 at 10:09 pm to WillFerrellisking
We are drilling wheat/rye/oats into standing vegetation then broadcasting clovers and turnips. Then we are cultipacking. Then we spray with roundup.
Posted on 9/4/20 at 10:26 am to cchoque93
quote:
We are drilling wheat/rye/oats into standing vegetation then broadcasting clovers and turnips. Then we are cultipacking. Then we spray with roundup.
First year for us. Our plan is to spread a 13 seed mix into the standing vegetation, then spray, then cultipack so the vegetation forms a thatch layer over the seed. All on the same day. Our understanding is that when applying this method it is much more important to do this right before a rain. I've looked at our summer plots. Even though I chopped the top off some weeds with the bushhog, I wish I had not. We're 1 to 3 feet tall with vegetation. It looks like if we spread the seed evenly we can get spray particle to vegetation and seed to soil contact fairly well (joint vetch + weeds). It'll be a learning experience, but I do not feel comfortable disturbing the soil anymore. The trick is finding the right day in October to get it done. Gotta be ready to head out and do it before rain is finally coming.
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