- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Coaching Changes
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: New boat - major fiberglass work
Posted on 10/18/24 at 9:22 am to CP3
Posted on 10/18/24 at 9:22 am to CP3
quote:
I would not separate the cap. I don’t know why I say that, but I just feel like it could open you up to other issues.
I agree. I'm sure they're built differently now, but I owned a Skeeter for years and spent a whole lot of time underneath the floor of that boat. Space was very tight and there were lots of bonds. I would do whatever I could do to avoid separating the cap.
Posted on 10/18/24 at 9:23 am to honkymagic62
Unfortunately, the best thing you can do is lawyer up. There's Federal Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act that covers warranties.
Posted on 10/18/24 at 9:27 am to CP3
Yea that one is hard to understand. Maybe the fill hose got routed up too high and has an air trap in it between the fill port and the tank or something.
Posted on 10/18/24 at 9:43 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Only thing I can think is that all the fuel fittings, hoses, etc are foamed in before cap is set, so it may just be that you may as well pull the tank.
I hate how boat MFRs now a days put all their shite in before setting the cap, and don’t give you ANY way to access shite after the fact. Fuel tanks being one exception, but atleast leave access for fittings, senders, wire ducts, etc.
Boat I’m working on now has seacock valves on thru hull literally impossible to replace without cutting a hole in the floor. You can hardly even get to them to shut them off as it is.
I hate how boat MFRs now a days put all their shite in before setting the cap, and don’t give you ANY way to access shite after the fact. Fuel tanks being one exception, but atleast leave access for fittings, senders, wire ducts, etc.
Boat I’m working on now has seacock valves on thru hull literally impossible to replace without cutting a hole in the floor. You can hardly even get to them to shut them off as it is.
This post was edited on 10/18/24 at 9:45 am
Posted on 10/18/24 at 9:48 am to CP3
Yea man. Big boats are bad enough. I imagine a bass boat has to be horrible.
Is this boats fuel fill port up near the bow like they like putting them these days?
I like the ones back by the splashwell. Relatively straight drop into the tank.
Is this boats fuel fill port up near the bow like they like putting them these days?
I like the ones back by the splashwell. Relatively straight drop into the tank.
Posted on 10/18/24 at 9:54 am to CP3
quote:
I hate how boat MFRs now a days put all their shite in before setting the cap, and don’t give you ANY way to access shite after the fact. Fuel tanks being one exception, but atleast leave access for fittings, senders, wire ducts, etc.
Agreed. This is the absolute worst.
Posted on 10/18/24 at 10:00 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I appreciate all the responses. It’s a mess. My assumption for removing the tank is (to my limited knowledge) the new epa tanks have two vents. One forward and aft. All other fittings for this are towards the aft end of the tank and are accessible via a deck plate. The forward vent line fitting is inaccessible. The fuel fill cap and vent is externally mounted at the transom by the splashwell. So when the boat is on trailer or at a slight incline, there is a belly in the lines at the rear. The forward vent line should eliminate this problem created by the incline, but I guess that’s not working properly?? Which I guess would be the reason to remove the tank to access the forward vent line? Idk
Posted on 10/18/24 at 10:13 am to honkymagic62
Ahhhh, that makes sense. So it won't take fuel properly on the trailer because the tank has a forward vent that isn't working correctly. Angled up it gets air locked.
Idk what the guts on those new boats look like exactly, but it seems this could be far easier to remedy by poking a hole in the deck over the forward end of the tank and running the vent from the front the tank to the fill neck at the transom. Im sure some stupid EPA rule prevents skeeter from doing that, but maybe the could pay a local shop to make the "repair" for you? That might be a better outcome for everyone involved?
FWIW my boat has the same issue. The fill is on the back 1/3rd of the tank and on the trailer and it doesnt have a forward vent at all, it'll only take about 20gal short of a full tank. I just live with it.
Idk what the guts on those new boats look like exactly, but it seems this could be far easier to remedy by poking a hole in the deck over the forward end of the tank and running the vent from the front the tank to the fill neck at the transom. Im sure some stupid EPA rule prevents skeeter from doing that, but maybe the could pay a local shop to make the "repair" for you? That might be a better outcome for everyone involved?
FWIW my boat has the same issue. The fill is on the back 1/3rd of the tank and on the trailer and it doesnt have a forward vent at all, it'll only take about 20gal short of a full tank. I just live with it.
Posted on 10/18/24 at 10:18 am to honkymagic62
Does it actually not take fuel? Or it just fills slowly or won’t fill all the way? Based on your understanding is it setup like this?
Posted on 10/18/24 at 10:21 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Ahhh, yeah this is actually more common issue than you would think. And also classic case of EPA creating problems by “fixing” things for no reason.
You probably have one of those shitty carbon canisters somewhere too then.
I agree with downshift though, this sounds like something that could very easily be fixed with small hole in deck and just covering with pie plate or minor fiberglass repair (depending on a few variables). I might be missing something but I don’t see that equaling a full blown tank replacement.
You probably have one of those shitty carbon canisters somewhere too then.
I agree with downshift though, this sounds like something that could very easily be fixed with small hole in deck and just covering with pie plate or minor fiberglass repair (depending on a few variables). I might be missing something but I don’t see that equaling a full blown tank replacement.
Posted on 10/18/24 at 10:26 am to bigbuckdj
Man that's lame af. A bunch more junk that's a pain the arse to service to fix an imaginary problem.
What's the purpose of that mid vent? The tank can't air lock in the center if the top is flat.
What's the purpose of that mid vent? The tank can't air lock in the center if the top is flat.
Posted on 10/18/24 at 10:28 am to CP3
I agree with cp3, skeeter may be limited in how they can fix the problem because they are builders held to environmental requirements. You may be able to bypass whatever fancy emission plumbing you have in your garage and avoid this fight if you are pleased with the rest of the boat.
Posted on 10/18/24 at 10:40 am to bigbuckdj
Agreed. I'm all for holding companies responsible, but i think I'd try to work out a deal here. Ask them to pay for a local repair to your satisfaction and it'll likely cost Skeeter far less money, you far less time, and you end up with a boat you're happy with. Nothing like that would affect resale or anything.
Posted on 10/18/24 at 10:50 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Article on EPA fuel systems
Man so complicated. It says they are supposed to hold pressure up to 5psi. Of course there are filling issues with all the vent floats and p traps and stuff.
You do all this to prevent emissions on a recreational boat while a bucees has 200 pumps with liquid fuel spillage 24/7
Man so complicated. It says they are supposed to hold pressure up to 5psi. Of course there are filling issues with all the vent floats and p traps and stuff.
You do all this to prevent emissions on a recreational boat while a bucees has 200 pumps with liquid fuel spillage 24/7
Posted on 10/18/24 at 10:55 am to bigbuckdj
All that bullshite would have to go. Talk to skeeter about having a local shop correct the issue In a minimally invasive way on their dime and you'll have a much better boat when it's done. Have the local shop do away with all that BS and make it a typical back fill front vent setup. Won't ever have to look at it again.
Posted on 10/18/24 at 11:24 am to bigbuckdj
I also misunderstood OP's original post. My boat has a similar issue because of the EPA venting requirements. My vent is forward of the tank but because of placement, it is tricky to get to fill completely while the boat is on the trailer.
My reading of OP suggested something much more serious. Not to suggest that this isn't a pain in the arse, but I'd be shocked if there wasn't a more simple solution than cutting out the tank or pulling the cap off. This is a common issue now.
My reading of OP suggested something much more serious. Not to suggest that this isn't a pain in the arse, but I'd be shocked if there wasn't a more simple solution than cutting out the tank or pulling the cap off. This is a common issue now.
Posted on 10/18/24 at 11:50 am to bluemoons
To be honest, even if they replaced the entire tank and fuel system you’re probably still going to fight filling up on a trailer as long as they put that epa bullshite back in.
Posted on 10/18/24 at 12:16 pm to CP3
How does Skeeter not have this resolved? Seems like an odd issue to not have a resolution already?
Call me a cheap arse I guess, but as said already here replacing a fuel tank is a VERY common repair in older boats. This is done all the time. I would personally have no issue having a repair done, getting some money back from Skeeter, and moving on with life.
A lot of people expect new items to be perfect, and I agree this shouldn't be an issue, but I don't see why a new boat or bust is the resolution here. Especially if you like the boat.
If you don't like the boat, giving it back for a refund isn't the worst solution.
Will it not take ANY fuel on the trailer or just not fill up? Its rare to need a full fuel tank.
Call me a cheap arse I guess, but as said already here replacing a fuel tank is a VERY common repair in older boats. This is done all the time. I would personally have no issue having a repair done, getting some money back from Skeeter, and moving on with life.
A lot of people expect new items to be perfect, and I agree this shouldn't be an issue, but I don't see why a new boat or bust is the resolution here. Especially if you like the boat.
If you don't like the boat, giving it back for a refund isn't the worst solution.
Will it not take ANY fuel on the trailer or just not fill up? Its rare to need a full fuel tank.
Posted on 10/18/24 at 3:42 pm to CP3
Suggest locating the spring loaded check valve at the outlet of the tank that provides spill protection reguired by the feds. The gas will dry and leave a varnish coating that prevents proper opening. Take the internals out and dispose for good gas flow. Also the dip tube where pushed on to tank fitting can leak air in. When running , look at full bowl to see if air in leakage occurs. Check to see if tank vent has a free flow.
I had a 30 foot proline that had all of those problems. The worst was it had an aluminum gas tank that condensed water by the gallon
I had a 30 foot proline that had all of those problems. The worst was it had an aluminum gas tank that condensed water by the gallon
Posted on 10/18/24 at 3:46 pm to bluemoons
quote:
am not your attorney
Well you should be
Popular
Back to top


0




