Favorite team:LSU 
Location:Baton Rouge
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Number of Posts:40
Registered on:1/29/2011
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Wouldn’t recommend this at all.
Your guitar is set up (hopefully) to be played with steel strings- the tension exerted by the strings on the neck and bridge, the height of strings off the fretboard, neck relief, width/depth of the nut slots, etc., etc. are all part of the set up. It all ideally is dialed in to allow for proper intonation, maximum playability, while not damaging the instrument. It’s not a simple switch to nylon strings. String tension and string diameters will be different and a standard steel string acoustic is not set up to accommodate that- intonation, fret buzz, and damage to the instrument would be a concern. Additionally, steel strings are ball end and most nylon strings are tied to the bridge (different styles of bridges).

Solution 1: take your steel string acoustic to a music shop with a knowledgeable set-up guy to get the most playability out of your instrument, and build up some calluses and finger strength by playing more (if the instrument is decent and is set-up properly, it will make you want to play more)

Solution 1: get a classical nylon string guitar or electric guitar

Looking for a whole home generator and received quotes for both the 26kW air-cooled Kohler and Generac models (liquid cooled is not in the budget).

I've anecdotally heard of Kohler being a more reliable engine, but one dealer mentioned Kohler is "smarter," as in there is more technology in the generator and transfer switch. This kind of concerns me-- my general thoughts are a simple design is better. He also mentioned the Generac transfer switch has a manual override feature, in the event there is failure in the automatic transfer mechanism. It does not seem that the Kohler switch offers that option, but I'm not positive.

Another consideration is ease of service and obtaining replacement parts during an outage situation. Kohler is also currently offering a free 10yr warranty, where Generac is not.

Anyone have any experience with these 2 systems that can recommend one over the other?
I appreciate all the responses. It’s a mess. My assumption for removing the tank is (to my limited knowledge) the new epa tanks have two vents. One forward and aft. All other fittings for this are towards the aft end of the tank and are accessible via a deck plate. The forward vent line fitting is inaccessible. The fuel fill cap and vent is externally mounted at the transom by the splashwell. So when the boat is on trailer or at a slight incline, there is a belly in the lines at the rear. The forward vent line should eliminate this problem created by the incline, but I guess that’s not working properly?? Which I guess would be the reason to remove the tank to access the forward vent line? Idk
quote:


Give them a formal demand to give you a new boat. There is no good option here. If you separate the cap from the hull, you risk compromising the structural integrity of the boat and you have a fiberglass shop who has offered you this opinion. If you cut a hole in the deck and repair, you will have a large cosmetic defect.

In either case, there was a hidden defect in the boat and you should push them to replace it. I say all this without looking at the sale contract/warranty provisions, but I would be threatening Skeeter with legal action at this point.


This is about where I currently sit on the matter. I've already been in contact with an attorney. Warranty documents states the following:

During the period of warranty, Skeeter or its authorized representative, or any authorized Skeeter Boat dealer will, free of charge, repair or replace, at Skeeter's sole option and discretion, any part adjudged defective due to faulty workmanship or material from the factory provided the original owner returns the Skeeter Boat, with transportation prepaid, to an authorized Skeeter Boat dealer or, if necessary, to the Skeeter factory or any other reasonable place designated by Skeeter.

So they will likely argue it is their option and discretion to take this approach. But there are other options to argue...

re: New boat - major fiberglass work

Posted by honkymagic62 on 10/18/24 at 8:26 am to
quote:


I had to have the fuel tank replaced in an 8 mo old boat. They came and got it from my driveway, took it to the factory, and brought me a brand new boat…including re rigging my outboard, electronics and top

I’d fight a little harder or ask for my money back


Was this Skeeter or another manufacturer?
That was actually part of their proposal- to cover the area with sea dek/eva. Never had it in a boat, but seems like something else to have to maintain/replace as it wears. Which is why i didn't put it in this build to begin with...
The goal is to replace the tank, per their assessment of the problem.

Very concerned about separating the deck from the stringers and hull, and I believe the deck is bonded to the stringers, although not positive. Toledo Fiberglass strongly advised against that option at all costs.

Definitely looking into my legal options.

But my big concern is the repair of the deck if they were to approach the replacement of the tank via cutting a hole. Namely with matching the rest of the deck and how it will age from a cosmetic standpoint. Toledo said being that they’re the factory, they should be able to get it looking good with factory gel coat and pattern. They were hesitant to say how it will age, as I guess that’s to be determined. But mainly wondering how these repair jobs age and if anyone has any experience watching a repair like this age over time.

New boat - major fiberglass work

Posted by honkymagic62 on 10/18/24 at 7:41 am
Nightmare of a situation- looking for advice from those more knowledgeable in fiberglass repair.

Purchased a Skeeter sx230 new in 2023. 40hrs on the boat and since delivery it doesn’t accept fuel properly. Long story short, after multiple unsuccessful repair attempts, it is back at the factory for warranty repair.
Factory is telling me they need to replace the fuel tank.
To do this, they’re giving me the option to cut a hole in the deck (non skid diamond pattern) and re-glass over it. Or they can separate the cap from the hull to access it. Both seem like terrible options.
The good folks at Toledo Fiberglass strongly suggested against separating the cap from the hull. And my concern with that approach is irreversible wear/tear to the structural materials when placed under the forces necessary to separate the two pieces. Not to mention the difficulty in putting it back together and maintaining the integrity of the rigging, structural components, etc.
My concern with cutting a hole in the deck is the cosmetics of the repair job.

Those more knowledgeable in fiberglass repair- if the factory has the non skid pattern and gel coat to match the original deck, what are the chances they achieve a seamless cosmetic result that will weather and age identically to the rest of the boat?

I am arguing for a new boat….shocker- they’re not very receptive….
disgusting.
With the amount of money the coaches are paid, and with the amount of time available in the spring and preseason, I can't comprehend how they march that crap out on the field and don't have a fundamental skill like tackling instilled in the players.
Bumping this thread— what kind of batteries are you running in your setup? 4 group 31 agm or lead acid?
Thanks for all the replies and advice.
I just can't see running cranking and house all off 1 battery...seems too risky.

CP3 - This setup sounds the best, especially with the ACR...still on the fence about running all that off 1 charger though. Thinking about 2 dedicated chargers-- 1 for the TM setup and one for the house and cranking...unless that is just way overkill
Ordered my first bay boat and going with a 23' Skeeter. Currently in the process of rigging it.
I will need to run a 36V Trolling Motor, 12' Simrad, Fusion stereo system, VHF, trim tabs, and 2 power poles in addition to cranking the outboard.

The dealer I'm using says most people go with lead acid for the bay boats they rig (which I find odd). And he was suggesting I run 3 batteries for the trolling motor and only one battery for cranking/house electronics. I don't think I like the sound of that... I feel like if I go lead acid, I'll need 5 batteries- 3 for the trolling motor and a dedicated house and dedicated cranking battery to be safe. Which I guess means I would need a 5 bank on-board charger instead of the 4 bank that comes installed from the Skeeter factory...
I'm not opposed to looking into other battery options, whether that be lithium or gel, but I know if I went all lithium it can get pretty darn expensive.
Just wondering if anyone has any experience setting up a boat like this or has any advice on adequately powering everything?

Hustler Zero Turn

Posted by honkymagic62 on 5/22/21 at 8:44 am
Looking for some advice from all the lawn baws out there. Trying to decide between a hustler 42" dash xd for $2849 or a hustler 42" raptor x for $3249. Have just shy of 1 acre to cut--flat, without many obstacles. Not really looking to spend much more than ~$3200. From what I can read, the main difference between the dash and raptor is little bit beefier transmission and build. Does that really justify paying more, considering what I have to cut? Anyone have any input on these mowers?
Clint Holt w/ Smart AV. does good work and will run conduit and wires anywhere you need.
new house on West Ella Kate. Would love to hear how this area fared.
there is a lot of back and forth regarding this particular subject.
adhering to the "full course" of antibiotics (typically 7-10 days) is essentially practicing empirical medicine.
best evidence suggests discontinuing 24-48hrs after resolution of the symptoms for which the antibiotic was prescribed for.
IMHO, i'd say the bigger issue is overuse and prescribing antibiotics too readily when not indicated.
Just more food for thought...
John Bishop- hoss of a guitar player with the music department. Taught some theory classes when I was there 10yrs ago.

Roger Laine- big gun in the biochem department. taught biochem of aging when I was there. Had awesome parties at his house