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Started By
Message
re: LED light bars (Installation update pg. 4)
Posted on 3/22/16 at 3:44 pm to SportTiger1
Posted on 3/22/16 at 3:44 pm to SportTiger1
Yup
0
Posted on 3/22/16 at 3:47 pm to SportTiger1
quote:
As seen on Essen Lane
I saw that van the other day cp3...I laughed very hard but hey atleast its paint matched.
to OP get the cheap amazon bars like they all said. I put one on redfish boat and it works fine.
Posted on 3/22/16 at 3:49 pm to s14suspense
When I got my windows tinted, I had to put these in my back bumper. Helps tremendously backing up. I have them on a SPDT switch that I can go on with reverse, always off, or always on. From Baja Designs and came with a really nice kit. They adapted the harness for what I was trying to do for free.
Before w/LED backup bulbs (there's a flashlight stuck to my hitch also)
With new LEDs in the bumper
Price difference is because they make almost all of it in-house using high quality stuff. Most of the off-road racers use them and two other brands
Before w/LED backup bulbs (there's a flashlight stuck to my hitch also)
With new LEDs in the bumper
Price difference is because they make almost all of it in-house using high quality stuff. Most of the off-road racers use them and two other brands
This post was edited on 3/22/16 at 3:53 pm
Posted on 3/22/16 at 3:54 pm to Hammertime
What models are those? I'm interested . My truck's reverse lights are awful and I can't see at night for shite.
Posted on 3/22/16 at 3:56 pm to bluemoons
quote:Another true need
My truck's reverse lights are awful and I can't see at night for shite.
Posted on 3/22/16 at 3:58 pm to Hammertime
I did the same thing. Didnt like the look with them hanging under the bumper so I hid them. Only problem is I accidentally ordered Spot LEDs instead of Flood. I'll eventually swap them out, but it works for now.
This post was edited on 3/22/16 at 4:01 pm
Posted on 3/22/16 at 4:00 pm to Hammertime
quote:
With new LEDs in the bumpe
Dayum thats bright. I have thought about doing the reverse light thing. Because i can't see diddly squat backing up at night.
I was planning on just wiring them off the existing back up lights, but im guess thats not what you did?
Posted on 3/22/16 at 4:00 pm to CP3
I like that idea better than cutting into my bumper. I'd really like to wire them into a SPDT like Hammertime though.
Posted on 3/22/16 at 4:02 pm to bluemoons
All the switches on my panel are wired with ON-OFF-ON toggle.
Reverse Lights:
Up = Manual ON - Middle = OFF - Down = AUTO (On with Reverse)
LED Bar:
Up = Manual ON - Middle = OFF - Down = AUTO (On with Brights)
Reverse Lights:
Up = Manual ON - Middle = OFF - Down = AUTO (On with Reverse)
LED Bar:
Up = Manual ON - Middle = OFF - Down = AUTO (On with Brights)
This post was edited on 3/22/16 at 4:05 pm
Posted on 3/22/16 at 4:04 pm to Hammertime
quote:
Hardest part for me was finding the correct reverse wire under the dash to splice into
Dude, just grab the 12v+ going to the reverse light itself
Posted on 3/22/16 at 4:04 pm to Hammertime
What about inches?
12 inch seems to be about what I've seen on the front of a 4 wheeler.
It was plenty bright, but I don't want any short dick syndrome on the Kubota. 54 inches may be a little excessive though.
12 inch seems to be about what I've seen on the front of a 4 wheeler.
It was plenty bright, but I don't want any short dick syndrome on the Kubota. 54 inches may be a little excessive though.
Posted on 3/22/16 at 4:05 pm to Clyde Tipton
20-22inch is a good middle ground IMO
This post was edited on 3/22/16 at 4:06 pm
Posted on 3/22/16 at 4:06 pm to CP3
I think i get the wiring diagram. IF i were going to use them without the back up lights. Which i may.
Otherwise, it sounds WAY easier to splice into the trucks back up wire at the tail lights. Agreed?
Otherwise, it sounds WAY easier to splice into the trucks back up wire at the tail lights. Agreed?
Posted on 3/22/16 at 4:06 pm to CP3
I wanted all of the connections to be inside the cab, plus I didn't want to overheat the tiny reverse wires going to the OEM lights.
Posted on 3/22/16 at 4:07 pm to SportTiger1
Either way you need to run them through a relay. The power supplying the actual light will come straight from the battery.
The only difference will be where you trigger the relay from.
The only difference will be where you trigger the relay from.
Posted on 3/22/16 at 4:08 pm to Hammertime
quote:
I wanted all of the connections to be inside the cab, plus I didn't want to overheat the tiny reverse wires going to the OEM lights.
The amount of current a relay coil pulls will have 0 effect on the OEM circuit. It's pretty negligible.
This post was edited on 3/22/16 at 4:09 pm
Posted on 3/22/16 at 4:09 pm to Hammertime
quote:
I didn't want to overheat the tiny reverse wires going to the OEM lights.
Gotcha.
Posted on 3/22/16 at 4:15 pm to CP3
quote:
The amount of current a relay coil pulls will have 0 effect on the OEM circuit. It's pretty negligible.
If thats the case, why couldnt you splice into both the hot and ground wires going into the tail light? Why do you need power straight from the battery IF im just trying to run them when the back up lights are on?
Posted on 3/22/16 at 4:19 pm to CP3
Stupid question:
I keep seeing "For Cheverolet", "For Jeep", etc.
Is that relevant? I assumed I would be drilling bolt holes, or using self tapping screws...
I keep seeing "For Cheverolet", "For Jeep", etc.
Is that relevant? I assumed I would be drilling bolt holes, or using self tapping screws...
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