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Started By
Message
Fly Fishing Instructors
Posted on 4/1/20 at 7:56 am
Posted on 4/1/20 at 7:56 am
Are once again I've bought another fly rod with the intent of learning how to use it (bought many over the years with many unfulfilled promises from others to teach).
Having a substantial amount of down time over the last couple weeks, I've come to the conclusion that I pretty much suck at this and have no idea what I'm doing.
I've come to the understanding that YouTube is not the greatest instructor for some things, ranks right up there with teaching how to throw a cast net, which I suck at as well, no matter how easy that blonde in the bikini says it is, while simultaneously throwing a 20' net and balancing on the bow of a rocking boat.
Any recommendations of places/instructors around the Westbank to teach an old dog new tricks?
Having a substantial amount of down time over the last couple weeks, I've come to the conclusion that I pretty much suck at this and have no idea what I'm doing.
I've come to the understanding that YouTube is not the greatest instructor for some things, ranks right up there with teaching how to throw a cast net, which I suck at as well, no matter how easy that blonde in the bikini says it is, while simultaneously throwing a 20' net and balancing on the bow of a rocking boat.
Any recommendations of places/instructors around the Westbank to teach an old dog new tricks?
9
Posted on 4/1/20 at 8:07 am to dakarx
I don't have anywhere to recommend but two things I can tell you will help:
1. Get a 12-15" piece of string and tie it into a loop. When you hold the rod wrap the string over the but of the rod. This will help you with not breaking your wrist.
2. Wait for the line to straighten out on your back cast. To give you an idea at what you're trying to do, in your yard practice by making a backcast and let it fall to the ground. Then start your forward cast. You're just trying to get the feel of it.
Lastly practice.
1. Get a 12-15" piece of string and tie it into a loop. When you hold the rod wrap the string over the but of the rod. This will help you with not breaking your wrist.
2. Wait for the line to straighten out on your back cast. To give you an idea at what you're trying to do, in your yard practice by making a backcast and let it fall to the ground. Then start your forward cast. You're just trying to get the feel of it.
Lastly practice.
Posted on 4/1/20 at 8:40 am to dakarx
Given the state of the world right now, I'd start here.
LINK /
Second, Fly casting is all about feel. Once you get the right feel of what you are trying to do, things significantly improve for most people. As stated above, most beginners do not allow the rod to properly load on the back cast. This is where the power comes from on the forward cast.
What species are you trying to target? (This question is about the distance you need to cast to effectively target fish). The more line you have out the harder it is to control the line. The less line you have out, the more difficult it is to load the rod.
One thing that I PERSONALLY like to tell beginners is when first starting out, it's not a bad idea to overline the rod. That means if you have a 6wt rod, put a 7 wt line on it. Alternatively many manufactures make "half weight over" fly lines. Long story short is many rod manufactures are making their rods a "half weight over". Without going into a long diatribe, for some reason rod makers think that a "stiff stick" that allows folks to cast a country mile is the tool that we need. That's because the way folks test fly rods these days is they go to the parking lot of fly shop and the first thing they do is see how far they can cast it. Forget the fact that most of us fish at distances of less that 30'. The ability for most of us to control the line at distances in excess of that diminishes quickly.
LINK /
Second, Fly casting is all about feel. Once you get the right feel of what you are trying to do, things significantly improve for most people. As stated above, most beginners do not allow the rod to properly load on the back cast. This is where the power comes from on the forward cast.
What species are you trying to target? (This question is about the distance you need to cast to effectively target fish). The more line you have out the harder it is to control the line. The less line you have out, the more difficult it is to load the rod.
One thing that I PERSONALLY like to tell beginners is when first starting out, it's not a bad idea to overline the rod. That means if you have a 6wt rod, put a 7 wt line on it. Alternatively many manufactures make "half weight over" fly lines. Long story short is many rod manufactures are making their rods a "half weight over". Without going into a long diatribe, for some reason rod makers think that a "stiff stick" that allows folks to cast a country mile is the tool that we need. That's because the way folks test fly rods these days is they go to the parking lot of fly shop and the first thing they do is see how far they can cast it. Forget the fact that most of us fish at distances of less that 30'. The ability for most of us to control the line at distances in excess of that diminishes quickly.
This post was edited on 4/1/20 at 8:43 am
Posted on 4/1/20 at 8:52 am to bbvdd
quote:
. Wait for the line to straighten out on your back cast.
This was my biggest hurdle, I was so ready to get it forward. Wait until it pops at the end, you can look back and watch it straighten out.
If brought forward too early, you are throwing a wet noodle that will pool 10ft in front of you.
Posted on 4/1/20 at 9:06 am to dakarx
I think that having a bullwhip as a kid helped me pick up fly fishing pretty quickly.
Kind of the same as going with BB guns,pellet guns,.22’s and then a large caliber rifle.
Get a bullwhip and make it crack,you will get your back cast and forward cast down.
Kind of the same as going with BB guns,pellet guns,.22’s and then a large caliber rifle.
Get a bullwhip and make it crack,you will get your back cast and forward cast down.
This post was edited on 4/1/20 at 9:08 am
Posted on 4/1/20 at 9:22 am to dakarx
Another thing to try. Take just the tip section of your rod (the top 2 sections if a 4 piece rod). Run about 10-15' section of fly line out the tip. Work on casting with that "mini" setup. Since the tip is alot more sensitive than the butt section of your entire rod, it will allow you to feel the tip of the rod load (which is the same as waiting for the line to straighten out on your back cast).
Posted on 4/1/20 at 10:42 am to Lonnie Utah
quote:
Another thing to try. Take just the tip section of your rod (the top 2 sections if a 4 piece rod). Run about 10-15' section of fly line out the tip. Work on casting with that "mini" setup.
Great idea! I’ve been looking for a way to practice indoor or in tight space yard.
Posted on 4/1/20 at 10:46 am to dakarx
Casting is like swinging a golf club...practice, practice, practice...and do not worry about what you look like....trust me almost all fly fisherman suffer from an inferiority complex...we all feel like we aren't quite good enough...and keep your wrist straight....use a wrist wrap if necessary but the secret is your wrist is not your friend, especially in the beginning....and WAIT on the back cast....if the line ain't pulling your arm back the rod aint loaded....wait, wait, wait......goes against modern ways of doing almost everything but speed and strength are not the idea...patience and subtlety are what gets it done.
I was taught by an uncle but I would suggest finding a guide who is willing to also teach. That way you can catch some fish in the process and the price will be about the same....
I was taught by an uncle but I would suggest finding a guide who is willing to also teach. That way you can catch some fish in the process and the price will be about the same....
Posted on 4/1/20 at 11:03 am to sloopy
quote:
Great idea! I’ve been looking for a way to practice indoor or in tight space yard.
This is a Lefty Kreh trick. You can thank him, God rest his soul.
Posted on 4/1/20 at 11:08 am to dakarx
10 to 2
Posted on 4/1/20 at 11:13 am to Gtmodawg
nena take a lesson from some one younger than like 60 cause chances are tehy learned wrong too. Here are some simple tips ya grandpa shoulda taught ya:
1. Bull whip is WRONG the fly cast is a simple 3 beat movement sadly like the waltz it evades many amateurs. the cast is lift pause cast the hesitation is very key in longer more accurate cast. Those idiots whipping their whole arm back and forth are just wrong no matter how many views their video has.simple lift..pause..cast. That alone will vastly improve your cast.
2. learn to fish with your elbow and wrist leaving your upper arm and shoulder out of it. Practice with a rolled up news paper or magazine stuck under your arm pit. Learn to cast and not drop the paper. lift by bending your elbow and wrist after the pause cast by straightening your elbow and snapping your wrist. When you see some one with their whole arm raised whipping about know they watched too many movies will tire easily and not cast as good. Even this old man can work a fly for several hours with out tiring cause I dont flail about with my whole arm.
There is your first lesson master those and come back we will learn distancing ad casting under cover limited back casting area etc
Those will have you well on the way master those 2 and you will be a better caster than half of the fly fishers out there.
1. Bull whip is WRONG the fly cast is a simple 3 beat movement sadly like the waltz it evades many amateurs. the cast is lift pause cast the hesitation is very key in longer more accurate cast. Those idiots whipping their whole arm back and forth are just wrong no matter how many views their video has.simple lift..pause..cast. That alone will vastly improve your cast.
2. learn to fish with your elbow and wrist leaving your upper arm and shoulder out of it. Practice with a rolled up news paper or magazine stuck under your arm pit. Learn to cast and not drop the paper. lift by bending your elbow and wrist after the pause cast by straightening your elbow and snapping your wrist. When you see some one with their whole arm raised whipping about know they watched too many movies will tire easily and not cast as good. Even this old man can work a fly for several hours with out tiring cause I dont flail about with my whole arm.
There is your first lesson master those and come back we will learn distancing ad casting under cover limited back casting area etc
Those will have you well on the way master those 2 and you will be a better caster than half of the fly fishers out there.
Posted on 4/1/20 at 11:27 am to Captain Ray
quote:
1. Bull whip is WRONG
Sure is! If your fly line is cracking like a whip your wrist is moving...you'll get all manner of wind knots and other things that you want to avoid....and the line will be ruined eventually....I've heard accomplished fly fisherman tout the bull whip idea but they didn't practice it themselves because it is not correct....lift, wait, cast....the wait is where the art is and modern world just doesn't encourage waiting LOL...but good casting requires it....if the rod ain't loading you are as well off without it and simply trying to toss a feather on a line by hand.....
Posted on 4/1/20 at 12:04 pm to Captain Ray
quote:
a simple 3 beat movement sadly like the waltz
quote:
simple lift..pause..cast.
I'd say 4,
1)Lift/backcast,
2) Stop/pause
3) Forward cast
4) Stop/pause
But it's rerally just semantics.
Posted on 4/1/20 at 3:13 pm to Lonnie Utah
KISS
Posted on 4/1/20 at 4:13 pm to dakarx
just go practice in back yard and tie a 1/2" long folded corner bit of paper towel on where the fly goes
after afew hours you will be able to cast to it lays down and lands gently like a fly
after afew hours you will be able to cast to it lays down and lands gently like a fly
Posted on 4/2/20 at 6:35 am to keakar
Thanks for the advice guys, and the needed encouragement. Going to keep working on it as time permits, definitely need to work on snapping the wrist (I did know this, just a hard to break habit).
Although I do find the 'rolling cast' to be pretty effective and was easy to figure out... still suck just not as bad, but can get it to roll out about 40 feet or so before balling it up from poor technique.
Although I do find the 'rolling cast' to be pretty effective and was easy to figure out... still suck just not as bad, but can get it to roll out about 40 feet or so before balling it up from poor technique.
Posted on 4/2/20 at 8:10 am to dakarx
Most fly lines are WF (weight forward). They are not the best for roll casting.
If you are in a tight area where your cast will be pretty short and a lot of roll casting you would need a DT (double taper) line.
If you are in a tight area where your cast will be pretty short and a lot of roll casting you would need a DT (double taper) line.
Posted on 4/2/20 at 10:41 am to bbvdd
If ya line goes out a few feet then puddles its cause your cast ends with the rod tip too low when you cast forwards stop the rod at a lifted angle not parallel with the water
Posted on 4/2/20 at 11:06 am to dakarx
I'm self taught through various youtube videos and daily practicing. I practiced in the back yard every afternoon for at least an hour.
One tip that really helped me was imagine that you're holding a wet paintbrush. There's a wall in front of you and a wall behind you. You want to flick that water from the wet paint brush onto each wall, but you don't want any to get on the floor.
That requires a smooth, steady forward and backward motion that ends with a slight acceleration/flick. My biggest problem starting out was that I was going top speed throughout my casting motion and that resulted in tailing loops. A smooth motion ending with an acceleration to a stop will really shoot line without a ton of effort.
I also found that I was really overthinking it. At the end of the day it's a piece of string connected to a stick. Think about how you cast a spinning rod. You accelerate to a quick stop at the end to get that good tip flex. It's not really much different with a fly rod. I still have issues from time to time with wanting to overpower my cast. I have to remind myself to slow down and let the rod and the haul do the work
One tip that really helped me was imagine that you're holding a wet paintbrush. There's a wall in front of you and a wall behind you. You want to flick that water from the wet paint brush onto each wall, but you don't want any to get on the floor.
That requires a smooth, steady forward and backward motion that ends with a slight acceleration/flick. My biggest problem starting out was that I was going top speed throughout my casting motion and that resulted in tailing loops. A smooth motion ending with an acceleration to a stop will really shoot line without a ton of effort.
I also found that I was really overthinking it. At the end of the day it's a piece of string connected to a stick. Think about how you cast a spinning rod. You accelerate to a quick stop at the end to get that good tip flex. It's not really much different with a fly rod. I still have issues from time to time with wanting to overpower my cast. I have to remind myself to slow down and let the rod and the haul do the work
Posted on 4/2/20 at 12:10 pm to Riseupfromtherubble
quote:
. A smooth motion ending with an acceleration to a stop will really shoot line without a ton of effort.
quote:
1)Lift/backcast,
2) Stop/pause
3) Forward cast
4) Stop/pause
This post was edited on 4/2/20 at 12:11 pm
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