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re: Fixed Blade or Mechanicals?
Posted on 9/30/22 at 11:46 am to AlxTgr
Posted on 9/30/22 at 11:46 am to AlxTgr
These pictures illustrate a perfect broadside shot at ground level.
If you are in a stand 18ft off of the ground 20 yards from the deer, that scapula is much more in the target area. If it’s slightly quartered to you, even more so. I personally believe a good fixed head gives you more “what if’s”
What if.. he loads up on the shot and the scapula is in the way?
What if… I’m two inches high?
What if… something less that ideal happens?
If you are in a stand 18ft off of the ground 20 yards from the deer, that scapula is much more in the target area. If it’s slightly quartered to you, even more so. I personally believe a good fixed head gives you more “what if’s”
What if.. he loads up on the shot and the scapula is in the way?
What if… I’m two inches high?
What if… something less that ideal happens?
Posted on 9/30/22 at 11:51 am to OeauxMy
I have never hit one. I have never recovered a deer that another hunter hit. It's way forward.
quote:Why?
I personally believe a good fixed head gives you more “what if’s”
quote:You'll miss it.
What if… I’m two inches high?
quote:You're not recovering the deer.
What if… something less that ideal happens?
Posted on 9/30/22 at 11:51 am to MobileJosh
quote:
dont mind the decreased cutting area and less accuracy

quote:
We hunt primarily in the Miss Delta and Kansas. Annually I kill more deer, and bigger deer with a bow/arrow than anybody on this board.

Posted on 9/30/22 at 11:53 am to MobileJosh
quote:
But there are no "points of failure" on quality mechanical broadheads. Stories of them bouncing off deer, not opening and so on are lies
Wild story:
My buddy shot a perfectly broadside doe two seasons ago with a Rage 2 blade mechanical. The broadhead went into the shoulder, and the arrow broke off. We put my dogs on it and never found it. Fast forward a month or so, and he shoots the same deer with his rifle. When he cleaned it, the broadhead was lodged between the last rib and the hide on the same side the broadhead went in. The broadhead legit deflected off the shoulder bone, slid along the body between the ribs and skin, and then just sat there for a month. Never saw that before or since.
This post was edited on 9/30/22 at 12:09 pm
Posted on 9/30/22 at 11:53 am to Clyde Tipton
Lot's of good info here. Let me add since you mentioned hog. On a large hog you will get better penetration with a fixed blade, thus greater chance of a pass thru.
Posted on 9/30/22 at 12:16 pm to MobileJosh
quote:
look, a stupid frick
Hey man frick you
Meet me at sonic on burbank in 15
Posted on 9/30/22 at 12:26 pm to 2dogs
quote:
you will get better penetration with a fixed blade,
I think thats largely limited to cut on contact style heads. I dont think something like a muzzy necessarily will out penetrate something like a rage. You might lose a little negligible bit of energy to open them. I think the total length of blade on both of them is similar and thus the resistance traveling through something should be similar.
With all the variables involved in actually shooting live stuff, I really don't think the head matters all that much once it's broken hide and the blades are out.
Posted on 9/30/22 at 12:45 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
The original 2 blade rage and the trypan are great heads. Since I switched to fixed I think people really overlook sharpness.
There’s a good podcast with the iron will guy where he says basically, a dull head can get through a deer by moving past a lot of tissue without slicing anything. For a rifle I think you want to dump all the energy from a bullet into the animal, but for a bow, you just want to slice everything.
Anyway, there’s no wrong answer, shoot what gives you the most confidence and switch when you lose confidence in it. They don’t do well with holes in their heart so practice with whatever you got and put it on the x.
There’s a good podcast with the iron will guy where he says basically, a dull head can get through a deer by moving past a lot of tissue without slicing anything. For a rifle I think you want to dump all the energy from a bullet into the animal, but for a bow, you just want to slice everything.
Anyway, there’s no wrong answer, shoot what gives you the most confidence and switch when you lose confidence in it. They don’t do well with holes in their heart so practice with whatever you got and put it on the x.
Posted on 9/30/22 at 12:52 pm to bigbuckdj
quote:
I think people really overlook sharpness.
I know there are people out there who will shoot the same head multiple times. My policy was always that hunting blades get shot only at deer, and they become target blades after they're shot once.
Eta: I'm becoming more and more of a fan of the big triangle fixed blade stuff. Being easily resharpened and reused, cut on contact, and heavy enough to shoot elk with if I get the chance one day.
One of the last tracks I put my dog on though was a clear example of piss poor penetration from one of those big tomahawk looking things. Arrow was broke off almost full length laying on the ground and the deer was never found. No clue what that one hit. It can happen with any of them.
This post was edited on 9/30/22 at 12:55 pm
Posted on 9/30/22 at 12:57 pm to OeauxMy
I think that exact shot right there is responsible for a shitload of lost deer. People shoot it like they would with a rifle and off it runs.
Quartering on is a bad shot to take with a bow. No real good way to do it.
Quartering on is a bad shot to take with a bow. No real good way to do it.
Posted on 9/30/22 at 1:42 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I don’t disagree with you, just illustrating that the scapula can be guarding things you want to hit.
Repeat on the importance sharpness. Some heads new out of the box are sharp, some or not. Even the sharp ones can be taken to another level with a little time on a stone with a steady hand or good jig. I’d recommend sharpening all new heads.
Repeat on the importance sharpness. Some heads new out of the box are sharp, some or not. Even the sharp ones can be taken to another level with a little time on a stone with a steady hand or good jig. I’d recommend sharpening all new heads.
Posted on 9/30/22 at 1:57 pm to OeauxMy
quote:
I’d recommend sharpening all new heads.
I agree. I sold my crossbow this year to get back into compound bow hunting. I bought a pse carbon levitate. I figured I may as well set it up with a heavier arrow and a cut on contact broadhead. I ended up going with a 125gr Maasai single bevel. I figured they would be scary sharp out of the box, but I couldn’t shave hair with them. So I put them in my KME sharpener and now they shave hair.
I’m going to Missouri in November and I want to be able to take that quartering to shot you posted above, in case a big buck comes out and that’s the only shot I have. Definitely not ideal, but I don’t want the trip to be a waste because I couldn’t get a perfect broadside shot. Fwiw I’ve killed a good bit of deer with grim reaper mechanicals. I just wanted something stronger and something that I can resharpen myself.
Posted on 9/30/22 at 1:58 pm to Clyde Tipton
I currently shoot QAD Exodus or Magnus Black Hornet ,BUT I did purchase some Sevr 1.5s this year for the hell of it. At the end of the day you’re either a two hole guy or a blood trail guy….. I’m a two hole guy. They will all kill deer and it’s truly personal preference BUT in my experience, fixed is the best option for what I do.
Posted on 9/30/22 at 1:59 pm to OeauxMy
quote:It's a bad shot regardless of the point.
I don’t disagree with you, just illustrating that the scapula can be guarding things you want to hit.
Posted on 9/30/22 at 2:08 pm to A_bear
The KME is the best I’ve seen. I’m shooting the iron will single bevel They cut hair out of the box, but not as easy as I would have liked. After running them on a few stones followed by cardboard w/ buffing compound with the KME they effortlessly shave. I mean SCARY sharp.
As you mentioned, I chose that style head to be confident to make that shot if it was all that was presented.
As you mentioned, I chose that style head to be confident to make that shot if it was all that was presented.
Posted on 9/30/22 at 2:11 pm to Clyde Tipton
Rage fans are like Bama fans…. They just can’t get out of their own way. We get it man, you’ve been good for a while. There’s a reason people are switching, is it the heads, is it super light arrows, is it bad shot placement or a combo of all three causing shite penetration? I don’t know….. I do know this, when I went over 500 grains, increased FOC and went to Exodus or Black Hornet I magically went from two holes sometimes to two holes every time. Less blood in the beginning? Yep…. Shorter track jobs? Yep! I’m sold and will never go back, especially on my out of state hunts. That said, a whole bunch of critters get killed with mechanicals every year so to each us own.
Posted on 9/30/22 at 3:51 pm to TexasHand
Exodus have been mentioned a few times, those are really scary sharp out of the pack. I’ve also been shooting the iron will single bevels, not problems and they resharpen pretty easy, I want to upgrade to the kme, I have the stay sharp stuff right now
Posted on 9/30/22 at 3:51 pm to Clyde Tipton
I'd been shooting Wasp Drone 125 grain heads for years. Recently dropped down to 100 gr and went to magnus stingers so I could resharpen them.
Thunderheads are great.
I shot rage for a while but quit when one rode the shoulder down instead of entering the vitals. I'm not a great shot so I'm sticking with fixed blades.
Eta: hogs gave rage heads hell.
Thunderheads are great.
I shot rage for a while but quit when one rode the shoulder down instead of entering the vitals. I'm not a great shot so I'm sticking with fixed blades.
Eta: hogs gave rage heads hell.
This post was edited on 9/30/22 at 4:30 pm
Posted on 9/30/22 at 7:05 pm to mylsuhat
quote:
biggest fricking lie in the outdoor industry
The bone collector has one on video, wasn't a rage but I guess that's a deep fake video
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