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Posted on 4/24/18 at 9:13 pm to Voltronjacko
There is an all metal connector with no pressure cut off. You can get it for hand or wrench.
It's what I use.
It's what I use.
Posted on 4/24/18 at 9:23 pm to lsupride87
quote:
It took 18 minutes to get my pot to a rolling boil with the 60psi opened all the way up
Approx. 38,733 btu/hr net (i.e., btus that got into the water).
quote:
It took 22 minutes to get my pot to a roiling boil with the 30 psi opened all the way up
Approx. 31,609 btu/hr net
Double the psi got you about a 22% net increase in btus. I should also have gotten you a 40% increase in btu output from the burner (from 210K btu/hr to 290K btu/hr). So an overall reduction in efficiency from 15% to about 13%.
Fun with math.
Posted on 4/24/18 at 9:31 pm to BadMrK
quote:
I believe the green is only good for 30psi applications. The red is 60psi, and the black is LP
The colors pertain to flow rates measured in btus and not pressure. They are on the high pressure side of the regulator and routinely handle 200 psi with full tanks on hot days. So, if you are going to use one with a safety feature, make sure it can handle the btu output of the burner and don't worry about the pressure.
Posted on 4/24/18 at 11:37 pm to BiggerBear
This is the first correct post. I've built several burners, and the two things that determine heat output are pressure and jet orifice size. (Pressure X area = volume). Efficiency is determined by having the right ratio of propane to air mixing in the jet nozzle.
The orifice size is matched to the regulator pressure AND the diameter of the jet nozzle (air flow). If you upgrade the gas pressure but don't make a bigger pipe, you will get more heat output but kill your efficiency and freeze the tank and reg a lot faster..
The orifice size is matched to the regulator pressure AND the diameter of the jet nozzle (air flow). If you upgrade the gas pressure but don't make a bigger pipe, you will get more heat output but kill your efficiency and freeze the tank and reg a lot faster..
Posted on 4/25/18 at 7:33 am to Fonzarelli
I have been having that setup for 10 years. No issues yet
Posted on 4/25/18 at 8:28 am to Vacherie Saint
quote:
I have the 250000 btu high pressure banjo with a 60psi regulator on a 100qt rocket pot.
Whisper quiet and rolling boil in around 15 mins. Return to boil in about 5 minutes.
I've yet to run a better overall pot/burner setup.
Assuming that you fill the pot 1/2 way with water, you are getting about 58,100 net btus at about 23% efficiency which assumes that the 250,000 btu/hr rating is at 60psi. If you have changed the regulator from 30psi to 60psi (350,000 btu/hr), you're getting about 16% efficiency out of that setup which is only about 3% better than a pot of the non-rocket variety.
Posted on 4/25/18 at 9:29 am to mohalk
quote:
The orifice size is matched to the regulator pressure AND the diameter of the jet nozzle (air flow). If you upgrade the gas pressure but don't make a bigger pipe, you will get more heat output but kill your efficiency and freeze the tank and reg a lot faster..
So being that I swapped the 10 psi regulator that came with the burner with a 30 psi regulator, what should I do to the pipe, if anything? I've heard of some people drilling a bigger hole in the tip, what does that do exactly? Meaning, does it make it more efficient or just hotter?
Posted on 4/25/18 at 9:32 am to BiggerBear
quote:
BiggerBear
Would you mind providing detailed math?
Posted on 4/25/18 at 9:58 am to al_cajun
quote:
Would you mind providing detailed math?
I was hoping for the same thing.
Posted on 4/25/18 at 11:17 am to al_cajun
quote:
Would you mind providing detailed math?
The math itself is uncomplicated.
btu = unit of heat required to raise the temperature of 1-lb of water, one degree Fahrenheit.
btu/hr = the delivery of one btu over one hour.
Assumptions:
Starting temperature of water: 72° (this can obviously vary, but will typically be around 72 degrees).
Finish temperature of water: 212°
Bringing water to a boil requires raising the temperature of 1-lb of water, approximately 140° Fahrenheit. At one btu/hr, this would take one hour. Water weighs approximately 8.3 lbs/gallon. Bringing 10 gallons, or 83 lbs of water to a boil in one hour requires 11,620 btu/hr (83lbs x 140° ÷ 1hr).
Calculating the heat necessary to raise 10 gallons of water to a boil in 18 minutes would look like this.
10 gallons = 83lbs
18 minutes = .3 hours
83 x 140 ÷ .3 = 38,733.33 btu/hr
To get the "efficiency" of the delivery of heat to the water, you need to know the rated output of the burner at the operating pressure used. If it is a 250,000 btu/hr burner (and it was used at its rated pressure), then simply divide the btus above by the burner's rating and get the following:
38,733.33 ÷ 250,000 = .154933 (15.5%)
This gets you an approximation due to a number of factors. It actually takes more heat to make water boil because the water is continuously losing heat via evaporation and radiation throughout the time it is being heated. On the other side of the equation, the water in a pot will boil before all of the water reaches 212°, meaning it takes less heat to boil water than it does to raise the temperature of all the water to 212°. These two factors may or may not balance out in a crawfish pot, but if you assume it does for all calculations, you can still get a useful number for comparing the efficiency of different boiling setups.
Additionally, the btu/hr rating of a burner isn't actually a measure of the heat that it produces. It is instead a measure of the heat that can be theoretically produced by the amount of propane that passes through it (2590 btu/ft^3). Propane flow is determined by the size of the orifice and the operating pressure. So two burners of completely different designs, like a banjo and jet, will be rated at the same btu/hr output if they have the same orifice size and operating pressure irrespective of which one produces the most heat from the gas that flows through it. So calculating the relative efficiency this way compares the amount of heat that gets into the water from the amount of gas used in the process.
This post was edited on 4/25/18 at 11:19 am
Posted on 4/25/18 at 12:53 pm to BiggerBear
quote:
The math itself is uncomplicated.
All math, in my mind, is complicated
Posted on 4/25/18 at 1:21 pm to BiggerBear
I’m a little under half way on water. Cold from the tap. If we’re getting into hard numbers, I’m usually rolling in around 12 minutes, and reboil in about 3(one sack med with extras).
Not sure how the math works out, but the rocket is faster than my traditional pot by about 1/4 to 1/3 on the same burner That’s based in actual times. Old pot is thinner aluminum though
Not sure how the math works out, but the rocket is faster than my traditional pot by about 1/4 to 1/3 on the same burner That’s based in actual times. Old pot is thinner aluminum though
Posted on 4/25/18 at 2:12 pm to SpeckledTiger
quote:
So being that I swapped the 10 psi regulator that came with the burner with a 30 psi regulator, what should I do to the pipe, if anything? I've heard of some people drilling a bigger hole in the tip, what does that do exactly? Meaning, does it make it more efficient or just hotter?
I'll bump this question
Posted on 4/25/18 at 8:00 pm to BiggerBear
Bro you just wrote a book about a crawfish burner
Posted on 4/25/18 at 8:21 pm to SpeckledTiger
quote:
So being that I swapped the 10 psi regulator that came with the burner with a 30 psi regulator, what should I do to the pipe, if anything?
Nothing.
quote:
I've heard of some people drilling a bigger hole in the tip, what does that do exactly?
That changes the flow rate without changing the pressure. The orifice is generally matched to the mixing tube size, so this is probably the worst thing you can do. You're better off just increasing the pressure, although doubling the pressure only gets you 1.4 times the heat output.
quote:
Meaning, does it make it more efficient or just hotter?
Drilling out the orifice can change the air/fuel ratio. It can make the fire hotter. It can also result in an incomplete burn and the production of a lot of carbon monoxide. It can do both of these things at once. There are so many variables at play that it's impossible to tell exactly what will happen other than you will dramatically increase the amount of propane coming out of the orifice. That might be good or bad. As to efficiency, you will likely decrease the efficiency.
Just my opinion: changing the orifice size is the worst thing you can do to try to get more heat. If you want more heat get a burner that is rated for more btus.
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