- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Camper Electrical Fun
Posted on 1/16/24 at 11:15 am
Posted on 1/16/24 at 11:15 am
My understanding of electrical systems is basic at best.
I think I've fried the converter in my camper and here are the reasons why. I'd appreciate any validation or "nope you're wrong and here's why" yall might have.
1. Ran camper off of my house garage plug (110) for about 3 days during the holidays for extra guests. Battery was not hooked up. Ran HVAC and a couple lights.
2. Now, when I connect to shore power, none of the lights work. (again, battery not present) However, the outlets are reading 120+
3. When I connect the battery and disconnect shore power, the lights absolutely work.
4. HVAC will not come on at all.
I'll check power after the converter with multimeter this afternoon, but I'm guessing there won't be any to the DC side.
Any other thoughts/advice?
I think I've fried the converter in my camper and here are the reasons why. I'd appreciate any validation or "nope you're wrong and here's why" yall might have.
1. Ran camper off of my house garage plug (110) for about 3 days during the holidays for extra guests. Battery was not hooked up. Ran HVAC and a couple lights.
2. Now, when I connect to shore power, none of the lights work. (again, battery not present) However, the outlets are reading 120+
3. When I connect the battery and disconnect shore power, the lights absolutely work.
4. HVAC will not come on at all.
I'll check power after the converter with multimeter this afternoon, but I'm guessing there won't be any to the DC side.
Any other thoughts/advice?
Posted on 1/16/24 at 11:25 am to AUjim
Seems obvious, but have you checked all your breakers? Do you have a battery disconnect switch?
If you've got 120 at the outlets you're still getting shore power from somewhere.
The lights should work off 12v. Those should work off the battery regardless of what your AC/DC converter is doing.
The HVAC works off 120 and not off the 12v house system. So if the outlets are seeing 120, so should the HVAC. Unless you've tripped a breaker, which circles me to that question/answer...
ETA: Either that or you've fried the AC by running it on 15 amp house power...
If you've got 120 at the outlets you're still getting shore power from somewhere.
The lights should work off 12v. Those should work off the battery regardless of what your AC/DC converter is doing.
The HVAC works off 120 and not off the 12v house system. So if the outlets are seeing 120, so should the HVAC. Unless you've tripped a breaker, which circles me to that question/answer...
ETA: Either that or you've fried the AC by running it on 15 amp house power...
This post was edited on 1/16/24 at 11:33 am
Posted on 1/16/24 at 12:23 pm to AUjim
I had a similar problem last month, checked everything and couldn’t figure it out, finally looked at the outlet by my sink and it has a breaker on it, reset it and everything worked. It’s the only outlet that has a breaker.
Posted on 1/16/24 at 2:04 pm to Walkerdog14
I kinda hoped it was that -
Breakers all correct
Fuses all good
GFCI not tripped
Its not just the HVAC that doesn't work, its the slide, fridge, lights - literally everything EXCEPT for the wall plugs, which seems very odd.
Breakers all correct
Fuses all good
GFCI not tripped
Its not just the HVAC that doesn't work, its the slide, fridge, lights - literally everything EXCEPT for the wall plugs, which seems very odd.
Posted on 1/16/24 at 2:10 pm to AUjim
You should be getting 13.6 volts out of converter. Ac and fridge could possibly run off 12v control board and 120ac. Circuit breakers up front (usually) could also be bad. Sounds like converter is gone. Make sure battery is disconnected when you check voltage on converter.
Posted on 1/16/24 at 2:16 pm to AUjim
quote:
literally everything EXCEPT for the wall plugs, which seems very odd.
Are your outlets on a 12v DC to 120v AC inverter by chance?
Posted on 1/16/24 at 3:24 pm to AUjim
Had a similar situation in a horse trailer...Check the fuses on the back of the converter itself. This solved my problem. That converter sends power to the batteries for charging while you are connected to shore power so they may have shorted to ground and blown the fuses.
Posted on 1/16/24 at 3:33 pm to Lonnie Utah
quote:
Are your outlets on a 12v DC to 120v AC inverter by chance?
I don't think so....
But battery isn't connected at all right now, outlets reading 120+
Posted on 1/16/24 at 4:25 pm to AUjim
Without being there to help ya, I'm outta ideas...
Good luck with it.
Good luck with it.
Posted on 1/16/24 at 4:31 pm to AUjim
Yes, the converters do go out. They are basically ment to be a battery charger. All of the lights are actually 12v and designed to run off the battery. The converters are designed to keep the battery charged. Everything will work without a battery present but it shorteneds the life of the converter.
You can find a replacement pretty cheaply and the swap is easy. Try and keep a battery hooked up to extend the life of the converter.
You can find a replacement pretty cheaply and the swap is easy. Try and keep a battery hooked up to extend the life of the converter.
This post was edited on 1/16/24 at 4:32 pm
Posted on 1/16/24 at 4:33 pm to AUjim
AC units usually have a fused disconnect along with a circuit breaker. Did you check to see if the AC unit has one, and if so check the fuse.
Posted on 1/16/24 at 6:16 pm to AUjim
You need a battery for the lights to work, and the slides.
12 V
The inverter does not store electricity
12 V
The inverter does not store electricity
Posted on 1/17/24 at 7:30 am to AUjim
Systems are different OP, as said you may need a battery hooked up. Maybe the lights have small capacitors or something to run temporarily without battery/ 12v but now that’s dead?
Why are you not trying to run it with a battery and 120v together?
Is your hvac 120v for sure? Assuming it is? But what were they running? If using heat it is it electric heat or propane heat? A lot of them are propane heat so hvac isn’t 120v for propane possible?
Why are you not trying to run it with a battery and 120v together?
Is your hvac 120v for sure? Assuming it is? But what were they running? If using heat it is it electric heat or propane heat? A lot of them are propane heat so hvac isn’t 120v for propane possible?
Posted on 1/17/24 at 3:23 pm to baldona
I've always been able to just run everything on shore power. My new, somewhat updated understanding and theory is that the converter was converting that AC power into DC power to run the lights and such. Now that the converter has potentially failed, lights no worky.
My line of thinking for only using shore power has proven to be flawed. Apparently, the power system prefers to run those little things on the battery, whilst the AC side likes to run the big things AND charge the battery at the same time.
My line of thinking for only using shore power has proven to be flawed. Apparently, the power system prefers to run those little things on the battery, whilst the AC side likes to run the big things AND charge the battery at the same time.
Posted on 1/17/24 at 4:17 pm to AUjim
What's the benefit of going into the effort of unplugging the battery? That's what I don't understand? I understand plugging in and off.
Posted on 1/17/24 at 4:53 pm to AUjim
When y'all are typing "converters" do you really mean inverters?
Assuming the power being brought straight into the camper via a 30 or 50 amp 3, 4 or 5 prong plug .... what are these converters you're speaking of?
You're either splitting 240 at the hookup or you're running it through a charge controller into a battery bank.
Or perhaps I'm confused as to wnat kind of converter it is that y'all keep referencing.
Assuming the power being brought straight into the camper via a 30 or 50 amp 3, 4 or 5 prong plug .... what are these converters you're speaking of?
You're either splitting 240 at the hookup or you're running it through a charge controller into a battery bank.
Or perhaps I'm confused as to wnat kind of converter it is that y'all keep referencing.
Posted on 1/17/24 at 8:40 pm to scrooster
3 prong 30 amp ac coming in to camper.
Converter converts that into dc to run lights and other lower load accessories and simultaneously charges batteries
Converter converts that into dc to run lights and other lower load accessories and simultaneously charges batteries
Posted on 1/17/24 at 9:07 pm to AUjim
So there is not energy storage apparatus in place .... sic: batteries?
The only way the camper is energized is by AC power pole hookup or .... I assume there is a generator for remote camping?
The problem must be switches, relays or fuses. Could be a bad connection somewhere, ad solder, bad crimp ... but converter? Doesn't make sense, doesn't jive.
The only way the camper is energized is by AC power pole hookup or .... I assume there is a generator for remote camping?
The problem must be switches, relays or fuses. Could be a bad connection somewhere, ad solder, bad crimp ... but converter? Doesn't make sense, doesn't jive.
Posted on 1/17/24 at 11:07 pm to AUjim
Sounds like the invertor is fried.
Posted on 1/18/24 at 5:07 am to DownHome
For campers
Invertor changes 12v dc to 110V ac
Convertor changes 110V ac to 12V dc
Invertor changes 12v dc to 110V ac
Convertor changes 110V ac to 12V dc
This post was edited on 1/18/24 at 5:48 am
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News