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re: Boat rebuild thread - 33T Contender (pic heavy)

Posted on 12/7/21 at 1:40 pm to
Posted by CP3
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2009
7519 posts
Posted on 12/7/21 at 1:40 pm to
Yeah this is a battery management panel I came up with and we cut with jet. I have since made some changes and switched to the C-Series breakers, but the jet did a good job cutting for sure. Only con like you said is we are kind of limited to straight or mitered cuts, and hand routing any insets or rounded edges. (Picture is before we stripped and repainted, so ignore the nasty paint and old wiring lol)



We picked up trip 300 yamahas with low hours from a buddy of ours a while back thankfully. Would be impossible to find now. They’re sitting at shop waiting to be put on.
This post was edited on 12/7/21 at 1:43 pm
Posted by reds on reds on reds
Birmingham
Member since Sep 2013
4420 posts
Posted on 12/7/21 at 1:50 pm to
Nice should be a good looking panel once it's all rigged up.

Not sure if you've seen this stuff before or not but it's something I've used on a lot of big commercial projects when I was working at a shipyard and it's pretty awesome for spots you don't want to use screws. They have a lot of nice cable management and equipment mounting applications. WELD MOUNT

And nice score on the motors. I think my buddy is still 3-4 months out on his Zukes.
Posted by CP3
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2009
7519 posts
Posted on 12/7/21 at 2:08 pm to
Nice. I’ll look into those for sure.

Y’all wouldn’t happen to have a source for tinned copper flat bar huh? Like the raw stick, not an actual studded bus bar. I need some like 1/8” thick x 3/4” or 1” wide, maybe 2ft long to cut into sections. I can’t for the life of me find any. I’m making a slotted jumper/bus bar to power the breakers on my breaker panel (instead of individual wires from battery switch to each breaker). I have regular copper flat bar for now, but I’m not liking that it will eventually oxidize.
Posted by reds on reds on reds
Birmingham
Member since Sep 2013
4420 posts
Posted on 12/7/21 at 2:11 pm to
I’ll do some digging and see if I can find some
Posted by Saskwatch
Member since Feb 2016
17542 posts
Posted on 12/7/21 at 2:14 pm to
quote:

They do awesome work. They’ve done several boats for my buddy and his dad over the years, and did an amazing job on this one.


Thanks CP3. Good to know and hear.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
69288 posts
Posted on 12/7/21 at 2:21 pm to
You should have your custom piece tin plated. If you cut a pre-made piece, it will be bare copper where you made the cut.

You can DIY if you want to. Its a very simple process.
Posted by glassman
Next to the beer taps at Finn's
Member since Oct 2008
117318 posts
Posted on 12/7/21 at 2:21 pm to
quote:

They do awesome work. They’ve done several boats for my buddy and his dad over the years, and did an amazing job on this one.


Glass Master does great work and Robert is a really good dude. Been a customer of mine for over 20 years.
Posted by CP3
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2009
7519 posts
Posted on 12/7/21 at 2:27 pm to
quote:

You can DIY if you want to. Its a very simple process.


Yeah I did some googling a while back just don’t really want to get into the DIY electro plating or whatever. I’ve thought about just coating in flux and dip in solder, but not sure how well that works
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
69288 posts
Posted on 12/7/21 at 2:37 pm to
quote:

just coating in flux and dip in solder


Well, I've never done it but I doubt it comes out looking any better than wires
Posted by CP3
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2009
7519 posts
Posted on 12/7/21 at 2:59 pm to
The way I’m doing these bars, it would only be exposed copper on the ends where it’s cut to length, and inside the holes I would drill for the stud of each breaker (if I used a pre-tinned copper bar). I’m not too concerned with oxidation there, as with the copper it should only really have a thin layer of oxidation on the exposed part, and not necessarily corrode away/disintegrate. The main contact surface to the breaker would still be the tinned part.

At least that was my thought. I know you were ME so you would probably know better than I would.

Considering that I worked on a new Freeman that came from factory with bare copper jumper bars in console, I think I’m already over-engineering it as is by using any tinned bar at all
This post was edited on 12/7/21 at 3:02 pm
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
69288 posts
Posted on 12/7/21 at 3:58 pm to
Just tin plate your part you lazy bastard.

I see a whole lot of bare copper buss bars in marine switchgear. Definitely over-engineered. You crossed that line when you decided not to just use wire

Lug ties that come in generators are tin plated and already have holes in them. You could erector set them on the breakers maybe?
Posted by CP3
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2009
7519 posts
Posted on 12/7/21 at 4:34 pm to
I’ll probably just find some way to get the ones I already made tinned. They look too nice and are pretty convenient. I’ll throw a pict up tonight of what I got when I get home. I think my custom fabbed aluminum breaker panel got delivered this afternoon anyway

Posted by CP3
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2009
7519 posts
Posted on 12/7/21 at 6:07 pm to
One of the breaker panels I was talking about.


Posted by CP3
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2009
7519 posts
Posted on 12/22/21 at 6:40 pm to
Been busy with work for past 2 weeks, but got tens switch panel pre wired. My OCD made the wiring take longer than it probably should have. Knocking out plumbing and fuel lines after Christmas hopefully.

Posted by EagleEye99
Member since Dec 2017
2935 posts
Posted on 12/22/21 at 7:22 pm to
Awesome looking build CP3. Excited to see the finished product. That beast is going to be ridiculously tricked out.
Posted by farad
Member since Dec 2013
11552 posts
Posted on 12/22/21 at 7:42 pm to
outstanding work CP3...top looks awesome!...
Posted by CP3
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2009
7519 posts
Posted on 12/31/21 at 4:04 pm to
Got fuel lines and fuel valve panel knocked out for the most part. One 3-way valve for the center engine can select fuel from either the center tank, the port saddle tank, or the starboard saddle tank. Each of the port/stbd motors have their own 2-way valve that allow each motor to be fed from either the center tank or it’s respective saddle tank. Have a custom nameplate that will go over the panel to label each valve and tank selection.




Just need to go back and add clamps at the valves, and maybe some cable clamps to keep the hoses supported.

Hoping to get livewell plumbing wrapped up next so I can get to the console and all the wiring.
Posted by wickowick
Head of Island
Member since Dec 2006
46139 posts
Posted on 12/31/21 at 5:04 pm to
It will never be ready in time.
Posted by Capt ST
High Plains
Member since Aug 2011
13344 posts
Posted on 12/31/21 at 9:09 pm to
You that pistol wielding “guide” in Venice? He runs a Contender and a gatortail, I’ll bet my left testicle he runs Sitka gear too.
Posted by CP3
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2009
7519 posts
Posted on 12/31/21 at 9:10 pm to
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