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2010 Sierra 5.3 - check engine light - throttle lag (Update 1/18/24)
Posted on 9/27/23 at 9:56 am
Posted on 9/27/23 at 9:56 am
AutoZone checked the code P0333 and the Fix Finder report said the "most likely solution" was knock sensor 2 circuit high input (bank 2). Great, that sounds pretty specific, so I bought a knock sensor and changed it (bank 2 is passenger side, correct?).
This morning I had the same problem, check engine light and throttle lag. It seems to run fine, sounds good and has plenty of power when it wants to. It's just accelerating in the 10-20mph range is kind of shaky.
Trying not to spend a fortune on this thing. Should I take it back to AutoZone and have them suggest something else, or do you guys have any ideas?
This morning I had the same problem, check engine light and throttle lag. It seems to run fine, sounds good and has plenty of power when it wants to. It's just accelerating in the 10-20mph range is kind of shaky.
Trying not to spend a fortune on this thing. Should I take it back to AutoZone and have them suggest something else, or do you guys have any ideas?
This post was edited on 1/18/24 at 9:00 am
Posted on 9/27/23 at 10:02 am to Korkstand
Does it struggle at idle or in turns at low power?
Does the issue get better or go away if you fill up with gas?
Also possible the pins in the wiring leading to the sensor are corroded or burned, look at them closely if you haven’t.
Does the issue get better or go away if you fill up with gas?
Also possible the pins in the wiring leading to the sensor are corroded or burned, look at them closely if you haven’t.
Posted on 9/27/23 at 10:04 am to Korkstand
How many miles? Have you changed plugs and wires?
Posted on 9/27/23 at 10:06 am to Korkstand
Not much help to the specific problem but I'd say take it to a trusted mechanic. If its actually a simple problem, it won't take much labor to fix it.
If you keep going to Autozone route, be sure and save the OEM parts you take off in case they are good. The repair bill could really escalate if eventually a mechanic has to buy OEM parts to replace the parts store parts AND also fix the original problem in the first place. There is a decent chance the chinese knock sensor was bad right from the box too.
If you keep going to Autozone route, be sure and save the OEM parts you take off in case they are good. The repair bill could really escalate if eventually a mechanic has to buy OEM parts to replace the parts store parts AND also fix the original problem in the first place. There is a decent chance the chinese knock sensor was bad right from the box too.
Posted on 9/27/23 at 10:15 am to TheDrunkenTigah
quote:I'm not exactly sure what you're asking, but it idles fine with no noticeable variations. Haven't noticed any issues specifically while turning.
Does it struggle at idle or in turns at low power?
quote:It only started yesterday so haven't filled up yet. I'll try it.
Does the issue get better or go away if you fill up with gas?
quote:frick.
Also possible the pins in the wiring leading to the sensor are corroded or burned, look at them closely if you haven’t.

Posted on 9/27/23 at 10:17 am to bigbuckdj
quote:Just over 100k.
How many miles?
quote:I haven't so I guess that's long overdue. Damn thing has been running great though.
Have you changed plugs and wires?
Posted on 9/27/23 at 10:21 am to Korkstand
Fill it with oil and pour the coals to it! I’ve got a ‘10 Z71 with 132K and that pile of shite amazes me every time it cranks.
Posted on 9/27/23 at 10:25 am to Turnblad85
quote:Yeah I save everything.
If you keep going to Autozone route, be sure and save the OEM parts you take off in case they are good.
quote:At this point I'm only in for $25 plus about 30 minutes of cursing. I usually like to try a few such cheap fixes before taking it in. I understand that this might be beyond my skills/knowledge though.
The repair bill could really escalate if eventually a mechanic has to buy OEM parts to replace the parts store parts AND also fix the original problem in the first place.
Posted on 9/27/23 at 11:00 am to Korkstand
I know this is a broad brush and anecdotal, my 2000 5.3 around 150k started to misfire and lag at low rpm under load. Basically like if you were cruising at some low rpm and goosed it, it would struggle. Plugs and wires fixed it.
The same thing started to happen in my ‘11 5.3 and plugs and wires fixed it. It may be worth it to try some tune up steps and see if that clears it up. If nothing else, you did a tune up and you’ll probably notice the difference.
The same thing started to happen in my ‘11 5.3 and plugs and wires fixed it. It may be worth it to try some tune up steps and see if that clears it up. If nothing else, you did a tune up and you’ll probably notice the difference.
Posted on 9/27/23 at 11:05 am to bigbuckdj
Did the engine light ever come on?
I hear ya though, that's a cheap thing that I can do myself and needs to be done regardless.
I hear ya though, that's a cheap thing that I can do myself and needs to be done regardless.
Posted on 9/27/23 at 11:10 am to Korkstand
Check the plugs when you pull them. If they're bright white and clean, you probably have an upper intake gasket leak. Common thing on those Chevy V8's from 99 to mid 2000's. Not sure about the newer V8's.
Posted on 9/27/23 at 11:18 am to Korkstand
The code is telling you either that the sensor isn’t sending a signal to the ECM, or that the sensor is sending a signal, cause the engine is vibrating. That can happen because of a few things.
A dirty throttle body will cause the engine to struggle while idling or in situations where RPMs drop, like coasting through a turn. Doesn’t sound like the issue if it has a strong idle.
Plugged fuel vapor canister will cause really weird issues in older GM engines. Fuel tank can’t pull air in to relieve vacuum, will limit fuel to the engine while accelerating. Raising the level will increase head available to the suction side of the pump, and resolve the issue until you get lower on fuel and induce vacuum.
Welcome to the wonderful world of older GM ownership, good feeling when it’s not $1400 for a new condenser, but contact cleaner, wire brushes, and Xanax are on you.
quote:
I'm not exactly sure what you're asking, but it idles fine with no noticeable variations. Haven't noticed any issues specifically while turning.
A dirty throttle body will cause the engine to struggle while idling or in situations where RPMs drop, like coasting through a turn. Doesn’t sound like the issue if it has a strong idle.
quote:
only started yesterday so haven't filled up yet. I'll try it.
Plugged fuel vapor canister will cause really weird issues in older GM engines. Fuel tank can’t pull air in to relieve vacuum, will limit fuel to the engine while accelerating. Raising the level will increase head available to the suction side of the pump, and resolve the issue until you get lower on fuel and induce vacuum.
quote:
It was a real bitch just to reach the thing, not sure I can inspect the contacts and wiring. I thought about that though so I slid the plug on and off a few times to try to make good contact.
Welcome to the wonderful world of older GM ownership, good feeling when it’s not $1400 for a new condenser, but contact cleaner, wire brushes, and Xanax are on you.
Posted on 9/27/23 at 12:54 pm to Korkstand
If you swapped the knock sensor and you're still having issues, check the wires going to it for any cuts or ground issues. You could also have an issue with the PCM/ECU. Which I may take to a mechanic, just because the money you pay at that point will probably be worth the headache you'd have on your hands doing the repair and ECU programming. None of it is hard, but it can be frustrating and time consuming. Especially since most mechanics will have seen this exact problem 100 times over. Also, if it's something else they'll hunt it down for you.
In the interim, you may want to try a few tanks of premium gas, or put some octane boost in your current tak if it's fairly full. Sometimes a batch of crappy gas can cause some LSPI and set off the knock sensors and cause it to pull timing, which is where the laginess and power dips come from.
In the interim, you may want to try a few tanks of premium gas, or put some octane boost in your current tak if it's fairly full. Sometimes a batch of crappy gas can cause some LSPI and set off the knock sensors and cause it to pull timing, which is where the laginess and power dips come from.
This post was edited on 9/27/23 at 1:09 pm
Posted on 9/27/23 at 1:16 pm to RolltidePA
Mine is a Hemi 5.7 but mine would idle rough, but run ok when I got up to speed. I took it to O'reilly's and the error code was P0302 (cylinder 2). YouTube videos said the code most probably was a bad ignition coil pack, and there was a video on how to fix it. So I bought a coil pack for cylinder #2, and spark plugs for that cylinder, hemi is 2 plugs per cylinder. I changed out coil pack, installed new plugs, now truck runs perfect, engine light went off.
Could be that.
Could be that.
Posted on 9/27/23 at 1:34 pm to MTG325
Spray some ether on the throttle and give it an Italian tune up.
That will fix most 5.3 engine problems.
That will fix most 5.3 engine problems.
This post was edited on 9/27/23 at 1:36 pm
Posted on 9/27/23 at 3:37 pm to Korkstand
quote:
2010 Sierra 5.3 - check engine light - throttle lag
i changed both knock sensors, then i changed the whole knock sensor wiring harness, turned out it was a bad spark plug doing it the whole time.
anything not working correctly can cause a slight engine knock, even a spark plug not firing making a dead cylinder.
replace the spark plugs and wires before you try to fix anything else, that would habve saved me a shite ton of money trying to solve the knock sensor tripping
This post was edited on 9/27/23 at 3:57 pm
Posted on 9/27/23 at 4:08 pm to keakar
quote:I'll be damned. Thing was doing its job and we all jump to the conclusion that it's broken.
i changed both knock sensors, then i changed the whole knock sensor wiring harness, turned out it was a bad spark plug doing it the whole time.

Yours threw P0333 too?
quote:Already on order.
anything not working correctly can cause a slight engine knock, even a spark plug not firing making a dead cylinder.
replace the spark plugs and wires before you try to fix anything else, that would habve saved me a shite ton of money trying to solve the knock sensor tripping
Posted on 9/28/23 at 1:52 pm to Korkstand
My 2002 Chevy 5.3 has 365k miles. Check engine light has been on for at least last 15 years. Buddy hooked up to it a couple years ago and said lots of codes. I think 6 of 8 cylinders had misfires. To me mine runs like you describe. Which doesn’t bother me. I’m getting hard of hearing and radio drowns out most engine noises. I think my truck is like me just getting old and slow at different speeds. I plan on getting another few years out of my truck and figure the check engine light will burn out at some point. I did have lifter tapping start at 200k but I swapped to Shell Rotella HD diesel oil and that quieted them down. I’m just glad it’s not a 21 year old EV. I would be pissed if I had to stop driving my truck because the batteries died and cost too much to replace but I hear some people saying batteries last forever. Good luck with your truck. Hope you get it lined out.
Posted on 9/28/23 at 1:58 pm to Hankg
Dad called it a “pay more money soon” light and would just put a piece of electrical tape over the light??
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