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Posted on 8/2/16 at 12:22 pm to Korkstand
While we're on the topic of A/Cs, is it conceivable that using a return air filter with a really high "filtration rating" could cause a noticeable lack of air flow from the system? In other words, by using a cheap air filter that basically only stops the biggest of particles, could I increase the air flow from the A/C unit?
Posted on 8/2/16 at 12:22 pm to Brazos
quote:
Your AC running all day or for it to run for 5 minutes then kick off then run again for 5 minutes etc. I've read that kicking on and off will use more energy than it just running.
Initial energy bro
Posted on 8/2/16 at 12:23 pm to Brazos
quote:If it only runs for 5 minutes, then it's not sized right, I know that for a fact.
My AC is sized right, I know that for a fact.
This post was edited on 8/2/16 at 12:25 pm
Posted on 8/2/16 at 12:27 pm to Korkstand
It's a 4.5 ton unit for 2050 sq feet. The rule of thumb is 1/2 ton per 500 sq feet. That equals 1/2 ton per 455 sq feet. This is what 3 different AC companies have told me.
Posted on 8/2/16 at 12:29 pm to Brazos
quote:
It's a 4.5 ton unit for 2050 sq feet. The rule of thumb is 1/2 ton per 500 sq feet. That equals 1/2 ton per 455 sq feet. This is what 3 different AC companies have told me.
To be fair, you did admit you've had blown-in insulation added on top of existing insulation that has helped keep the temperature down and the house more efficient. If your hose is more efficient, you don't need the same size unit.
Posted on 8/2/16 at 12:36 pm to Brazos
quote:The rule of thumb is just that... a rule of thumb. Did you tell any of these AC companies that it only runs for 5 minutes? Actually, have you timed it yourself? Does it do this in the heat of the day? How long does it stay off for?
The rule of thumb is 1/2 ton per 500 sq feet
Anyway, back to your original question, you are much, MUCH better off as far as energy use the less total time the unit runs. If you try to save energy by making it run more, you're not doing it right. The startup current for your compressor is probably only 5X higher than the running current, and it's only for a few seconds. So, at worst, two 5 minutes cycles is about equivalent to one 11 minute cycle in energy use. In other words, you will always be better off the less the unit runs.
Posted on 8/2/16 at 12:56 pm to Brazos
quote:
My AC is sized right, I know that for a fact. I just had insulation blown in my attic on top of the existing insulation. The blown insulation has helped out a lot, I got about 3-4 degrees from that. I have a a lot of Windows in this house with my living room having a wall of windows. I guess the next step is energy efficient windows but that will have to wait bc I'm not a OT baller.
You can rent FLIR thermal imaging cameras from Home Depot these days. That can help a lot in finding problem areas. Windows are definitely an area of concern, however...you'd be amazed by how many houses have enough gaps in them that when you add them all together, it's like cracking open a window. The camera will also help you find leaks in your ductwork where you are losing cool air to unoccupied space.
Posted on 8/2/16 at 1:09 pm to Brazos
quote:
It's a 4.5 ton unit for 2050 sq feet. The rule of thumb is 1/2 ton per 500 sq feet. That equals 1/2 ton per 455 sq feet. This is what 3 different AC companies have told me.
If the rule of thumb is 1/2 ton per 500 square feet, then that would be 1 ton per 1,000 square feet. You would require a little more than 2 tons of cooling...so a 2.5 ton unit would be more appropriate than a 4.5 ton....unless I've misscalculated.
ETA...for clarification...4.5 tons for 2,050 square feet equals 1 ton per 455 square feet...not 1/2 ton per 455 square feet.
This post was edited on 8/2/16 at 1:19 pm
Posted on 8/2/16 at 1:13 pm to Korkstand
quote:
The rule of thumb is just that... a rule of thumb. Did you tell any of these AC companies that it only runs for 5 minutes? Actually, have you timed it yourself? Does it do this in the heat of the day? How long does it stay off for?
Thanks for pointing this out, I was about to. That is for a specific efficiency unit (used to be SEER 12 but may now be 14 for the "standard")
quote:
The startup current for your compressor is probably only 5X higher than the running current, and it's only for a few seconds
Exactly, probably actually less than a second on the surge in many instances. The issue I see is that despite having a ton of insulation, he is losing heat fast enough to cycle back on. Sounds like a thermostat issue with the dead band temperature. Check to see what that is set at, if possible. Something is not right here.
Posted on 8/2/16 at 1:17 pm to mdomingue
quote:
The issue I see is that despite having a ton of insulation, he is losing heat fast enough to cycle back on. Sounds like a thermostat issue with the dead band temperature.
He has roughly double the cooling capacity of what the "rule of thumb" actually states. That could be part of the problem.
ETA...nevermind...I see what he did there. The rule of thumb is more like 1 ton per 500 square feet...not 0.5 tons per 500 square feet.
This post was edited on 8/2/16 at 1:21 pm
Posted on 8/2/16 at 1:18 pm to Korkstand
I had the AC people come out before I had the blown insulation . I was actually happy that it was kicking off and on during the day after I had the blown insulation instead of running all day. I was just curious bc I read a article saying you use more energy starting it up throughout the day rather than just running .
Posted on 8/2/16 at 1:22 pm to Brazos
quote:
The blown insulation has helped out a lot, I got about 3-4 degrees from that. I have a a lot of Windows in this house with my living room having a wall of windows. I guess the next step is energy efficient windows but that will have to wait bc I'm not a OT baller.
Then I retract my previous statement about lacking insulation. It was just a suggestion that was relevant at one point in time to you. Windows will also make a big difference. Reading what other posters have said, the problem is probably with your thermostat not having enough tolerance.
The only further thought I have is that an ideal system will be off more than it is on...obvious statement to some regard....and when it is running, it's running long enough to be efficient. By that I simply mean it should run long enough to compensate for the initial increased loss during start up versus post start up.
Posted on 8/2/16 at 1:55 pm to Brazos
Both are bad. If either is occurring, you have a problem and need to call an HVAC technician to tell you what it is.
Posted on 8/2/16 at 2:12 pm to Brazos
quote:Either the article was wrong, or you misunderstood. Maybe what the article was actually comparing was leaving the temp set during the day (so that it kicks off and on as usual) vs. turning the temp higher during the day (so that when you turn it down when you get home it runs for a long time). In this case, it's better to turn the thermostat higher during the day and then make the AC run for a while to cool the house in the evening. It's just going to come down to total run time to determine what's more energy efficient. The startup current is negligible in the calculation.
I was just curious bc I read a article saying you use more energy starting it up throughout the day rather than just running .
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