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Used cars and trucks: What to avoid
Posted on 7/5/16 at 9:19 pm
Posted on 7/5/16 at 9:19 pm
Lots of posts lately about buying late-model used cars and trucks...
BOLO for flood-damaged cars making their way through the system.
(Yes, aluminum cars and trucks still have lots of steel components that will rust)
Here's some things from Hemmings on what to look for:
Any funny smell, whether mold or mildew; or from the inch-thick stack of Little Trees hanging from the mirror to mask it.
Mold or mildew itself.
Discolored, bleeding or redyed upholstery.
Condensation in the gauges, radio or exterior lamps.
Inoperable speakers, or fresh sealant around the door panels.
Burned-out bulbs in the interior or trunk.
Silt or residue in the interior under carpeting, under the dash, in the steering column, rear seats, spare-tire well, gauges or door pockets.
Water marks, rust or evaporation residue (i.e., salt) in the same places. Just reach up under the bottom of the plastic dash cover and run your finger in there.
Gritty or erratic power-window or seat operation.
Hard starting, rough running or hesitation.
Thin clearcoat or chrome from overpolishing; scratches and touchups from grit.
Bulging dash and door panels.
Rust on screws in the console or other areas where the water would normally not reach unless submerged.
Seat tracks can hold many clues, whether they’re rusting, or have sand in them.
Mud or grit in alternator crevices, behind wiring harnesses and around the small recesses of starter motors, power steering pumps and relays.
Any damage to wiring connections, fuses and blocks, including rust, water residue or suspicious corrosion.
Undercarriage rust and flaking metal that would not normally be associated with late model vehicles.
Freshly replaced exhaust in a late-model vehicle; or corroded exhaust. Exhaust is another good place to hunt for silt.
If you don’t feel confident doing your own inspection, you probably aren’t reading this blog…but any good local shop will do it.
FWIW, seat tracks are a dead giveaway. Check underneath seats very closely.
BOLO for flood-damaged cars making their way through the system.
(Yes, aluminum cars and trucks still have lots of steel components that will rust)
Here's some things from Hemmings on what to look for:
Any funny smell, whether mold or mildew; or from the inch-thick stack of Little Trees hanging from the mirror to mask it.
Mold or mildew itself.
Discolored, bleeding or redyed upholstery.
Condensation in the gauges, radio or exterior lamps.
Inoperable speakers, or fresh sealant around the door panels.
Burned-out bulbs in the interior or trunk.
Silt or residue in the interior under carpeting, under the dash, in the steering column, rear seats, spare-tire well, gauges or door pockets.
Water marks, rust or evaporation residue (i.e., salt) in the same places. Just reach up under the bottom of the plastic dash cover and run your finger in there.
Gritty or erratic power-window or seat operation.
Hard starting, rough running or hesitation.
Thin clearcoat or chrome from overpolishing; scratches and touchups from grit.
Bulging dash and door panels.
Rust on screws in the console or other areas where the water would normally not reach unless submerged.
Seat tracks can hold many clues, whether they’re rusting, or have sand in them.
Mud or grit in alternator crevices, behind wiring harnesses and around the small recesses of starter motors, power steering pumps and relays.
Any damage to wiring connections, fuses and blocks, including rust, water residue or suspicious corrosion.
Undercarriage rust and flaking metal that would not normally be associated with late model vehicles.
Freshly replaced exhaust in a late-model vehicle; or corroded exhaust. Exhaust is another good place to hunt for silt.
If you don’t feel confident doing your own inspection, you probably aren’t reading this blog…but any good local shop will do it.
FWIW, seat tracks are a dead giveaway. Check underneath seats very closely.
7
Posted on 7/5/16 at 9:29 pm to N2cars
Guys dressed like this:
Posted on 7/5/16 at 9:31 pm to N2cars
I don't care if it is a bad decision.
Give me a new vehicle. My 4WD trucks aren't depreciating that much anyway.
Give me a new vehicle. My 4WD trucks aren't depreciating that much anyway.
This post was edited on 7/5/16 at 9:32 pm
Posted on 7/5/16 at 9:33 pm to N2cars
Buying used F150's is retarded. You're paying the same as you would for new trucks with higher interest rates and less negotiating power.
Thanks cash for clunkers.
Thanks cash for clunkers.
This post was edited on 7/5/16 at 9:34 pm
Posted on 7/5/16 at 9:54 pm to theunknownknight
If I buy a truck im getting it brand new.
This post was edited on 7/5/16 at 9:59 pm
Posted on 7/5/16 at 9:56 pm to theunknownknight
quote:
Buying used F150's is retarded. You're paying the same as you would for new trucks with higher interest rates and less negotiating power.
Yeah I was in the market a few years ago for a used truck. Shopped around for 3 months and gave up and bought new. The used just held their value to much. Wasn't worth buying used unless I was looking for a 7 year old truck with 100,000 miles.
Posted on 7/5/16 at 9:58 pm to PatDyesPants
Agreed.
Just posting some good clues for any used vehicle, really.
Just posting some good clues for any used vehicle, really.
Posted on 7/5/16 at 10:38 pm to Mrtommorrow1987
quote:we're dealing with a badass!!
If I buy a truck im getting it brand new.
Posted on 7/5/16 at 10:54 pm to N2cars
IMO, the flood damaged used cars are a thing of the late 2000s. They were worth more to scrap than to resale.
My tidbit for the night, look for junkyard/scrap part markings on inside of fenders, under hood, engine parts, etc. They will be light colored pen or marker. They are dead giveaway to a crashed car or etc and its almost impossible to remove. Carfax doesnt catch every accident.
My tidbit for the night, look for junkyard/scrap part markings on inside of fenders, under hood, engine parts, etc. They will be light colored pen or marker. They are dead giveaway to a crashed car or etc and its almost impossible to remove. Carfax doesnt catch every accident.
This post was edited on 7/5/16 at 10:55 pm
Posted on 7/6/16 at 6:46 am to AutoYes_Clown
Good one, thanks.
Posted on 7/6/16 at 7:00 am to N2cars
quote:
Used cars and trucks: What to avoid
Used cars and trucks
Posted on 7/6/16 at 7:07 am to N2cars
quote:
Hemmings
Before the Internet that was all I needed for motorcycle and car parts.
Posted on 7/6/16 at 7:08 am to eScott
Still one of the best sites for determining value.
Posted on 7/6/16 at 7:11 am to N2cars
I always stayed away from:
Trucks that had a fifth wheel hitch
Trucks that were driven by 16-24 year olds
Vehicles with new, inexpensive paint jobs
Vehicles that had the undercarriage and under the hood detailed
Trucks that had a fifth wheel hitch
Trucks that were driven by 16-24 year olds
Vehicles with new, inexpensive paint jobs
Vehicles that had the undercarriage and under the hood detailed
Posted on 7/6/16 at 7:23 am to Tear It Up
anything chrysler
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