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re: Tying New Concrete to an Existing Foundation - Yes or No?
Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:30 pm to ForeverLSU02
Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:30 pm to ForeverLSU02
you really don't even need wire mesh in the patio slab
its probably not gonna stop it from cracking anyway
its probably not gonna stop it from cracking anyway
Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:32 pm to ForeverLSU02
I personally don't know crap about this, but I am adding the exact same size patio. I had three concrete guys out yesterday for bids and all three said they would tie it to my slab.
Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:32 pm to urinetrouble
quote:That's probably why my FIL suggested I use a 6" slab.
So you're going to anchor the columns into a 4 inch slab?

Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:34 pm to ForeverLSU02
How about a 3 inch slab with a 6 inch footing around the edge?
Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:36 pm to dillpickleLSU
quote:How wide should the footing be?
How about a 3 inch slab with a 6 inch footing around the edge?
Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:36 pm to urinetrouble
OP, just make sure you have a footing all around the slab. The footings should be no less the 12" wide and 12" deep. If you are planning to build on top and set post on the corners, use rebar in all footings, wire mess everywhere else. Oh, a 4" slab is fine. Also don't forget to spray for termites before pouring the slab. That is a must here in Louisiana.
Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:38 pm to fishfighter
a 6" footing should be fine. 1 foot wide....throw a rebar or two in the footing
Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:39 pm to ForeverLSU02
Why not make the whole thing 4" and use 12" x 12" block outs (no concrete) where you plan to place columns (later). You could cover the block out with stone or pavers and make it look nice until you're ready to pour. IMO, going thicker across the entire area doesn't make sense just so you have thickness for columns. Also, I'm not sure I'd set columns in 6" of concrete, would probably go much more.
ETA, you could always, instead, do a concrete joint which you could rip out later. in other words, replace my paver/stone idea above with a 12" x 12" joint of concrete.
ETA, you could always, instead, do a concrete joint which you could rip out later. in other words, replace my paver/stone idea above with a 12" x 12" joint of concrete.
This post was edited on 6/24/14 at 12:40 pm
Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:40 pm to dillpickleLSU
Reason for the 12" footing is that if you ever want to close in the patio, you can.
Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:40 pm to fishfighter
quote:
OP, just make sure you have a footing all around the slab. The footings should be no less the 12" wide and 12" deep. If you are planning to build on top and set post on the corners, use rebar in all footings, wire mess everywhere else. Oh, a 4" slab is fine. Also don't forget to spray for termites before pouring the slab. That is a must here in Louisiana.
This!
You need to have a footing AT LEAST this size if you want to tie a column of any kind into the slab.
Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:41 pm to GulfCoastPoke
quote:
Also, I'm not sure I'd set columns in 6" of concrete, would probably go much more.
6" is plenty for your typical patio column
uplift will probably be the controlling factor anyway, just make sure it's anchored decent
Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:42 pm to ForeverLSU02
Only reason I would dowel into the existing slab is if you're pouring steps or a step pad because you wouldn't want that to separate from the existing slab with settlement. If there's no elevation change from your back door to the new patio I wouldn't try to tie them together. What everyone else said, 4" thick w/ steel mesh to help prevent cracking in the new patio. If consider digging the perimeter footer a little deeper, 8-10". Get some concrete bricks and break them up into pieces to put under the mesh to keep it off the ground when you pour, but any concrete contractor should know to do this.
Only thing I haven't seem mentioned is make sure you get a termite company to spray the dirt before you pour if its going to abut your existing house.
Only thing I haven't seem mentioned is make sure you get a termite company to spray the dirt before you pour if its going to abut your existing house.
Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:45 pm to 4WHLN
Agree with the footings if the columns are to come later. If not then a lot of the advice in here is overkill for a 20x30 pad. 4" is perfect. Rebar is overkill. If you don't want to mess with the wwm and worry about how it's going to sit in the slab you can also pour with fiber reinforced concrete.
Posted on 6/24/14 at 12:49 pm to Beef Supreme
quote:How much more does this run compared to normal concrete?
fiber reinforced concrete.
Posted on 6/24/14 at 1:05 pm to urinetrouble
quote:
I guess all those elevated structural slabs designed with one layer of rebar at the center of the slab are hanging on by a wing and a prayer.
Does this slab have beams under it? is so the beams are supporting the slab. I would guarantee that the rebar is not in the center of the beams. The rebar in the slab it just for temperature and shrinkage reinforcement. When rebar is in the center of concrete it is strictly for temperature and shrinkage. What I'm saying is that for a 4" slab all you need is temperature and shrinkage reinforcement, and wire mesh provides that. No need to add #4 rebar because it is just overkill.
Posted on 6/24/14 at 1:07 pm to ForeverLSU02
quote:
fiber reinforced concrete
Looks like Shat! if you are covering it with something it not a problem. But the times I've seen this used it looks like you have hairy concrete.
Posted on 6/24/14 at 1:20 pm to civiltiger07
quote:
Does this slab have beams under it? is so the beams are supporting the slab.
The slab still has to span between the beams.
quote:
I would guarantee that the rebar is not in the center of the beams.
Countless structural slabs have been designed with a single layer of rebar at the center. Where are you getting this from?
Posted on 6/24/14 at 1:28 pm to ForeverLSU02
quote:
Should I not do 6"?
In the words of Robin Quivers, "four inches is fine."
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