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Message

Need repair help...Dryer suddenly stopped working mid cycle
Posted on 5/4/17 at 9:23 pm
Posted on 5/4/17 at 9:23 pm
Just had twins so the dryer has been going pretty good all week. Today the dryer was on Abd on low heat/delicate setting. The dryer suddenly stopped like the cycle was finished, I turn noticed the timer was half way done and the dryer would not come on anymore, it will not do anything at this time. I flipped the breaker but still nothing.
Any help please, I have loads of new born clothing that needs washing.
The dryer is Kenmore 70 series, here is a picture of it.
Any help please, I have loads of new born clothing that needs washing.
The dryer is Kenmore 70 series, here is a picture of it.

Posted on 5/4/17 at 9:26 pm to burgeman
Try pleasing your wife so she can stop sitting on it.
Posted on 5/4/17 at 9:29 pm to burgeman
#1 cause is the thermal fuse blown from overheating. Do you clean out your lint trap regularly as well as the exhaust duct?
Posted on 5/4/17 at 9:29 pm to burgeman
Unplug it and check the power terminals under the back plate.
A loose connection burned through a hot leg on a dryer I had years ago.
A loose connection burned through a hot leg on a dryer I had years ago.
Posted on 5/4/17 at 10:02 pm to burgeman
Check the small switch that senses door being open/closed...
Posted on 5/4/17 at 10:09 pm to Redlos
quote:
Check the small switch that senses door being open/closed...
When Redlos says check the switch, I think he means open the door, engage the switch and see if you can reach the start button. But keep your fingers clear of the drum.
It doesn't sound like the switch if it cut out mid-cycle, but can't hurt to try it.
Posted on 5/4/17 at 10:12 pm to burgeman
You said you checked the breaker,so probably no help, but if it's an electric dryer there will be two breakers. One breaker protects the motor that turns the drum and the other is for the heating element. Make sure both are reset.
Posted on 5/4/17 at 11:31 pm to burgeman
Open the door and check the little black thing hanging down on the top left corner inside the door way.
If it's not there, not long enough to make contact with the door(check that/VERY COMMON*) or if you push it and don't hear a soft click your lid switch broke. (hold in switch and see if your unit starts. If it does, its not contacting the door.
If it's okay, then your thermal fuse went out.
On that Whirlpool made-Kenmore the thermal fuse routes power to the motor. So if the Thermal fuse trips the motor does not get power.
It would be the little white thing hooked up the the output exhaust with the two blue wires coming from it.
either the lid switch being bad or the thermal fuse being bad will cause the unit not to run.
If it were a bad motor it would hum or start and not run.
If it were the timer it would likely work in other cycles.
If it's an electric dryer it is possible that the breaker is half broken. I have seen this many times. One leg of the breaker has continuity the other does not. You flip it on and off and it appears on, but only one side has power.
If you have a meter check the power at your outlet for 220-240.
If not, flip the black wire and the red wire on the back of the machine and see if it starts. If it does, 100% that's the problem (unit needs 115 to run 220 to heat)
If it's a gas dryer the only things that would cause that problem are the thermal fuse or the switch.
both are very cheap and both are easy to change.
The back comes off after taking off the nine 1/4" hex screws then taking the 1/4" hex screw off the thermal fuse and changing it. (good time to change the thermal limiter and cuttoff as well) then just put it back the way it came apart.
To change the switch you need to take the lint trap out, then remove those two phillips screws, then with a paint scraper or a butter knife, pry it open at the point of the two black plastic lid clasps (just give it a soft pry)
The switch then comes out with two phillips screws then you unplug the harness and plug the new one in, then put it back the way you took it apart..
The part numbers you would need are
switch WP3406105
thermal fuse 3393519
(if changing the thermal fuse I recommend changing the cut off and limiter)
electric 279816
gas 279973
That is one of the better made dryers of all time. Parts are cheap and it's easy to work on. The basic design is still in production and it first came out in 1976.
With little changes here and there.
Probably has a 50 year service life if in an climate controlled laundry room.
*** Once you get it working *****
set the dryer to tumble only or no heat dry.
Hold the switch and push the start button.
throw a dollar bill against the vent on the right of the dryer. If it does not stick to the vent you have a restriction in your ventilation system and the BIG problem is that you need to clean the dryer vent from the dryer to outside.
A thermal fuse is a safety device, it trips is the unit is not properly exhausting.
If it's not there, not long enough to make contact with the door(check that/VERY COMMON*) or if you push it and don't hear a soft click your lid switch broke. (hold in switch and see if your unit starts. If it does, its not contacting the door.
If it's okay, then your thermal fuse went out.
On that Whirlpool made-Kenmore the thermal fuse routes power to the motor. So if the Thermal fuse trips the motor does not get power.
It would be the little white thing hooked up the the output exhaust with the two blue wires coming from it.
either the lid switch being bad or the thermal fuse being bad will cause the unit not to run.
If it were a bad motor it would hum or start and not run.
If it were the timer it would likely work in other cycles.
If it's an electric dryer it is possible that the breaker is half broken. I have seen this many times. One leg of the breaker has continuity the other does not. You flip it on and off and it appears on, but only one side has power.
If you have a meter check the power at your outlet for 220-240.
If not, flip the black wire and the red wire on the back of the machine and see if it starts. If it does, 100% that's the problem (unit needs 115 to run 220 to heat)
If it's a gas dryer the only things that would cause that problem are the thermal fuse or the switch.
both are very cheap and both are easy to change.
The back comes off after taking off the nine 1/4" hex screws then taking the 1/4" hex screw off the thermal fuse and changing it. (good time to change the thermal limiter and cuttoff as well) then just put it back the way it came apart.
To change the switch you need to take the lint trap out, then remove those two phillips screws, then with a paint scraper or a butter knife, pry it open at the point of the two black plastic lid clasps (just give it a soft pry)
The switch then comes out with two phillips screws then you unplug the harness and plug the new one in, then put it back the way you took it apart..
The part numbers you would need are
switch WP3406105
thermal fuse 3393519
(if changing the thermal fuse I recommend changing the cut off and limiter)
electric 279816
gas 279973
That is one of the better made dryers of all time. Parts are cheap and it's easy to work on. The basic design is still in production and it first came out in 1976.
With little changes here and there.
Probably has a 50 year service life if in an climate controlled laundry room.
*** Once you get it working *****
set the dryer to tumble only or no heat dry.
Hold the switch and push the start button.
throw a dollar bill against the vent on the right of the dryer. If it does not stick to the vent you have a restriction in your ventilation system and the BIG problem is that you need to clean the dryer vent from the dryer to outside.
A thermal fuse is a safety device, it trips is the unit is not properly exhausting.
This post was edited on 5/4/17 at 11:48 pm
Posted on 5/4/17 at 11:33 pm to Redlos
pretty awesome that three of the first replies are the three most common causes for the problem the OP has. That's rare.

Posted on 5/4/17 at 11:43 pm to Tigerhead
quote:
One breaker protects the motor that turns the drum and the other is for the heating element. Make sure both are reset.
One breaker is for the motor and the controls. The other line goes to a switch on the motor called the centrifugal switch. Once the motor starts to run the centrifugal switch closes the run contacts to the motor allowing it to run until the timer or a protection device cuts power. The other function of that centrifugal switch is that it allows the power from line 2(red) to flow to one side of the heating element and is hooked directly to the heating element.
Line one, which powers the controls and he motor also runs to heating element, routed through the thermal cut-off and the thermal limiter.
So that both sides of the breaker run to the heating element and only one side to everything else. If nothing works the line one side would likely be the culprit.
The motor run wire is routed through thermal fuse that is on the exhaust and its neutral is ran through a lid switch, the motor needs both in to be closed to run. The thermal limiter and cut-off will be on the heating element and have much thicker wires.
The dryer will run but not heat with a failed limiter or cut-off. Same with just the Line 1 leg running to the dryer.
The dryer will not run at all with a bad lid switch, a bad thermal fuse or a circuit that is only providing line two (red wire).
Posted on 5/4/17 at 11:51 pm to burgeman
The first thing to do is always turn the breaker completely off and then back on. Do no use eye test on breaker.
I recommend youtube or other similar sites to get info on next basic steps. Here is a good source, but it can't compare to good videos.
I recommend youtube or other similar sites to get info on next basic steps. Here is a good source, but it can't compare to good videos.
Posted on 5/4/17 at 11:53 pm to airfernando
damn brah, hurt my feelings.
The big problem with just watching Youtube videos without going first to a question site or forum for advice is you find yourself buying parts you don't need because you don't know the exact diagnosis.
Youtube is the best place to go for the repair.
But the diagnostics is the hardest part. Luckily in this case it's an easy machine.
This post was edited on 5/4/17 at 11:57 pm
Posted on 5/5/17 at 6:09 am to Napoleon
Thanks for all the help. The door stitch has been broken for awhile, it won't stop when the door is opened. I just persisted on fixing it because the rest of the dryer worked fine. I wad thinning the thermal fuse may be it with how much it has been working the last few days and a lot today. I'll check the exhaust as well, I've had my mil over drying clothes and the lobby filter was pretty clogged when I checked it, so she may have gotten the exhaust clogged up.
Posted on 5/5/17 at 10:49 am to burgeman
well if the switch has been stuck closed it could be that. Commonly it will stick closed or open and then will break all the way.
Easy as hell to check that first. You could even by-pass it.
Easy as hell to check that first. You could even by-pass it.
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