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re: Mountaineers of the OT

Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:08 pm to
Posted by usc6158
Member since Feb 2008
39399 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:08 pm to
This is the OT. If you aren't doing Annapurna or K2, you might as well be hobby hiking.
Posted by 3morereps
The Gym
Member since Jun 2015
6735 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:10 pm to
Those are next, need to crawl before i walk
Posted by Jaydeaux
Covington
Member since May 2005
19680 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:11 pm to
I summited Rainier so not the same but the same. Not sure the protocol on McKinley but you have to leave Muir (base camp) in the middle of the night for Rainier as to not get killed by melting fall off. Staying at base camp to acclimate was a bitch. Being from Louisiana Altitude is the main issue.
Posted by LSUintheNW
At your mom’s house
Member since Aug 2009
37022 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:12 pm to
quote:


I have hiking experience and am in good physical shape but no mountain climbing experience. What do you reccomend to get my feet wet?



Yeah, don't waste your money and PTO.

I recommend if this is serious that you move to the NW and get practical experience.

First off....take an all around climbing class.

Next....join a club so you can get on climbs with knowledgeable people without it costing you money that a guide would charge.

Next....train for a marathon even though that may not still be enough.

Next....bag Rainier several times.

Next....keep on training. You also have to train with a loaded sled and practice escaping it.
Posted by LSUintheNW
At your mom’s house
Member since Aug 2009
37022 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:15 pm to
quote:

Train with a sled in what capacity?


Takes about 17 days or so depending on weather.

You'll have more gear and food than you can carry.

You'll be hauling a sled with all that gear/food.

Eta for auto correct
This post was edited on 1/2/19 at 2:19 pm
Posted by Jim Rockford
Member since May 2011
106021 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:30 pm to
A lot of people do Rainier as a warmup.

For scientific reasons that are above my paygrade, the far northern latitude makes a difference. Something about lower atmospheric pressure near the pole making the altitude "seem" higher.
This post was edited on 1/2/19 at 2:35 pm
Posted by IceTiger
Really hot place
Member since Oct 2007
26584 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:31 pm to
quote:


I am serious. I am going to do it and will put in proper training. Train with a sled in what capacity?



Have you ever climbed before???

This kills expert climbers, even those that have scaled the Andes and Himalayas...
Have you considered starting with Mt. St. Helens, then moving into something tougher like Shasta before tackling a top 10 deadliest climb type situation?
Posted by foshizzle
Washington DC metro
Member since Mar 2008
40599 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:36 pm to
quote:

What do you recommend to get my feet wet?


Not Denali (McKinley), that's for sure. I strongly suggest the following two at least:

If you just want to experience high altitude without any technical climbing, try Kilimanjaro. It is a pure hike, albeit a very hard one, and will give you an idea of how well you adapt to altitude. No special technique is required though, it's just a hike.

Once you've done that, try Rainier. It is often regarded as a good training mountain for alpine ascents like Denali. It is definitely more technical, as you'll be roped in a team for glacier travel. Do not attempt Rainier without a guide, crevasses are easy to stumble into.

Climbing expeditions will generally not accept a novice for Denali. You do at least need to have basic technique, because you can get you and your team killed if you don't.

I've done both Kili and Rainier FWIW. For Kili you're required to hire a guide with porters (it's the local jobs program basically) but for Rainier you're a fool if you don't hire a guide (there are no porters, you're lugging your own gear). I used RMI but there are several well-regarded ones in the area.

My head Rainier guide (Billy Nugent, Google him) led several ascents of Denali and a handful of Everest, and says Denali in summer is the rough equivalent of a higher Rainier in winter.
Posted by BigDropper
Member since Jul 2009
8841 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:40 pm to
My freind's dad summited Denali back in the late 60's as part of an expedition out of Colorado. His dad, Paul Schilchter, was in his 20's when he made the climb. There is a book about the whole ordeal detailing how 7 climbers perished as a result of bad weather. He has some great mountaineering stories but doesn't talk much about that one. He's one of tough SOB and said they trained for about 4 years before their attempt. You should seriously reconsider your commitment to climbing this Spring if you do not have prior climbing experience.
Posted by Jim Rockford
Member since May 2011
106021 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:46 pm to
A guy named Vern Tejas did the first solo winter climb with an aluminun ladder strapped to his back on the theory that if he fell in a crevasse it would bridge the gap.
Posted by LSUintheNW
At your mom’s house
Member since Aug 2009
37022 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:47 pm to
quote:

He's one of tough SOB and said they trained for about 4 years before their attempt


My buddy thought he was in good enough shape and ended up wasting 2 weeks off and 5k in flights and gear he bought that would only be used there by getting altitude sickness.

He's an experienced climber and has since spent the last 3 years training to go again.

It's a mountain not made for all climbers. Regardless of how bad arse your skills are. It's about SERIOUS training and that's it really.

Eta...my serial downvoter is at work. Btw...frick off you little bitch.
This post was edited on 1/2/19 at 2:49 pm
Posted by Choctaw
Pumpin' Sunshine
Member since Jul 2007
77774 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:50 pm to
quote:

need to crawl before i walk



and you're gonna "crawl" with McKinley?

you're gonna die, kid
Posted by IceTiger
Really hot place
Member since Oct 2007
26584 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:50 pm to
quote:

Vern Tejas did the first solo winter climb with an aluminun ladder strapped to his back on the theory that if he fell in a crevasse it would bridge the gap.



That's cool, never heard that...

Posted by Cump11b
Member since Sep 2018
2026 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:51 pm to
quote:

I have hiking experience and am in good physical shape but no mountain climbing experience


You gonna die baw. RIP
Posted by Cump11b
Member since Sep 2018
2026 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:56 pm to
quote:

I am serious. I am going to do it and will put in proper training. Train with a sled in what capacity?


You need more than a few months... you need actual experience on other mountains first... YOU'RE GOING TO DIE!
Posted by IceTiger
Really hot place
Member since Oct 2007
26584 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:58 pm to
quote:

getting altitude sickness


This is the part that jacks people up...it isn't as high as places close to the equator, but N Latitude combined with altitude play funny tricks with the pressure...and hypoxia is no joke...some people can never get past the low pressure...some can, but extremely low body fat helps with that...

BUT on the flip side, the caloric burn is insane, so it helps to be a bit thicker for a 17 day climb or less if you helicopter up to camp #2 (I think that's the highest the choppers get)
Posted by foshizzle
Washington DC metro
Member since Mar 2008
40599 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 3:05 pm to
quote:

N Latitude combined with altitude play funny tricks with the pressure...and hypoxia is no joke


No it isn't. Training doesn't really help much, either you can handle it or you can't. That's why Kili is a good place to start, you can see how you handle altitude without having to learn technical mountaineering skills.

Frankly, I think OP was just trolling but whatever.
Posted by LSUintheNW
At your mom’s house
Member since Aug 2009
37022 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 3:07 pm to
quote:

Training doesn't really help much


Disagree.

quote:

I think OP was just trolling


Agreed.
Posted by Cump11b
Member since Sep 2018
2026 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 3:21 pm to
quote:

Frankly, I think OP was just trolling


Or we're going to find out he was serious and an idiot when the helo crew attempting to rescue his retarded arse crashes like they did on Mt. Hood
Posted by Jim Rockford
Member since May 2011
106021 posts
Posted on 1/2/19 at 3:27 pm to
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