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Started By
Message
Tuning key upgrade. Someone throw out the FretShack signal!
Posted on 1/7/20 at 10:01 am
Posted on 1/7/20 at 10:01 am
I have a gold Squier bullet strat. It's my sons. I'd like to upgrade the tuning keys. The squires are crappy and the E string always has play in it.
What tuners can I just drop.in? I looked into a few videos on YouTube but they only mention graphtech and gotoh locking tuners. The graphtech cost as much as the guitar.
I do not need locking tuners. What are my options? Or is that it.
I'd rather not drill holes. Just drop in.
What tuners can I just drop.in? I looked into a few videos on YouTube but they only mention graphtech and gotoh locking tuners. The graphtech cost as much as the guitar.
I do not need locking tuners. What are my options? Or is that it.
I'd rather not drill holes. Just drop in.
3
Posted on 1/7/20 at 10:12 am to LSU alum wannabe
I'd start with StewMac. For example, these are less than $40. What I don't know is if they will drop into a Squier without any drilling. If you do have to drill, it's not a big deal. These come with complete instructions on how to install.
Posted on 1/7/20 at 11:33 am to MountainTiger
Share a picture of the front and back of the headstock and I'll give you a best bang for the buck suggestion. I need to see if it had vintage diameter or modern diameter posts; and I need to see the set screw alignments on the housing backs.
Posted on 1/7/20 at 1:12 pm to TheFretShack
Dang. Posting pics. My kryptonite.
Best I can do later will be an imgur link.
Best I can do later will be an imgur link.
Posted on 1/7/20 at 1:24 pm to LSU alum wannabe
Which E string has "play" in it? That isn't the tuner. That's likely an adjustment on the bridge (individual string adjustment that adjusts parallel to the instrument). It should be an allen or slot (flathead) screw to adjust. Try that.
Sorry I can't help with the tuners, but I don't think that's your issue there...
Sorry I can't help with the tuners, but I don't think that's your issue there...
Posted on 1/7/20 at 1:54 pm to LSU alum wannabe
quote:
The graphtech cost as much as the guitar.
lol
Posted on 1/7/20 at 2:25 pm to LSUisKING
Big E
The play is in the tuner when I wind. Feels like nothing moves, then it grabs the post and you jump sharp or flat depending which way you’re heading.
The play is in the tuner when I wind. Feels like nothing moves, then it grabs the post and you jump sharp or flat depending which way you’re heading.
Posted on 1/7/20 at 2:40 pm to LSU alum wannabe
Attempt #1
Posted on 1/7/20 at 3:35 pm to LSU alum wannabe
quote:
Dang. Posting pics. My kryptonite.
Well done brother
pics look great 
Posted on 1/7/20 at 4:05 pm to Got Blaze
thanks man. sometimes its the small wins in life. 
Posted on 1/7/20 at 5:38 pm to LSU alum wannabe
If anything get a graphtec nut for like 10-15 dollars.
I have the same guitar. Honestly wouldn't recommend investing more money in it for tuners... just get a better guitar in the 300-500 dollar range. Maybe trade this one in for credit.
If tuning stability is an issue and you don't want to upgrade yet tighten the claw with 3 springs straight across, don't use the whammy bar and when you put on the next pair of strings wind them as such so they won't slip.
I have the same guitar. Honestly wouldn't recommend investing more money in it for tuners... just get a better guitar in the 300-500 dollar range. Maybe trade this one in for credit.
If tuning stability is an issue and you don't want to upgrade yet tighten the claw with 3 springs straight across, don't use the whammy bar and when you put on the next pair of strings wind them as such so they won't slip.
Posted on 1/7/20 at 5:48 pm to LSU alum wannabe
No drop fit direct replacement exists for those keys to my knowledge. They are a cheapo key and pretty much anything you get will improve upon that design.
You also want vintage post diameter ... the non-hex press-in eyelet bushings are the dead giveaway.
If I was trying to replace as affordably as possible with a little modification as possible, here's my recommendation ... Google this ... it's a vintage Kluson clone ghost built by Ping.
Allparts TK-0780 Economy Vintage-style 6-in-line Keys
VERY IMPORTANT: Use an drill to make pilot holes for your set/mounting screws. Lay the keys out on/in the headstock. Mark your screw points with an ice pick. Then use a tiny drill bit to make pilot holes. Maple is too hard to just screw the little mounting screws in, you will either break the screws off or strip their heads.
You also want vintage post diameter ... the non-hex press-in eyelet bushings are the dead giveaway.
If I was trying to replace as affordably as possible with a little modification as possible, here's my recommendation ... Google this ... it's a vintage Kluson clone ghost built by Ping.
Allparts TK-0780 Economy Vintage-style 6-in-line Keys
VERY IMPORTANT: Use an drill to make pilot holes for your set/mounting screws. Lay the keys out on/in the headstock. Mark your screw points with an ice pick. Then use a tiny drill bit to make pilot holes. Maple is too hard to just screw the little mounting screws in, you will either break the screws off or strip their heads.
Posted on 1/7/20 at 6:02 pm to TheFretShack
In the meantime ...
** Here's how to properly string your headstock. This will eliminate excessive wraps, stretch the string on the post properly, and it locks the string on the post without all these unnecessary backbends and especially goofy knots people tie like they're going to sailor school. Waste of effort, waste of time.
** stretch your strings on the post. Pinch the string at the 12th fret and tug a little on the string rolling it as you pull. Retune and do it again. When it holds tuning well, you're done. Repeat on the other five strings.
** Always tune up to your note. The gear is designed to operate its best that way. Detune a full step and tune up to the note. If you go sharp, detune and do it again.
** If the strings are binding at the nut, use Chap Stick as a slot lubricant. It works, it's cheap and readily available and if it's safe for your lips, it's safe for plastics, woods, metals and finishes.
** Here's how to properly string your headstock. This will eliminate excessive wraps, stretch the string on the post properly, and it locks the string on the post without all these unnecessary backbends and especially goofy knots people tie like they're going to sailor school. Waste of effort, waste of time.
** stretch your strings on the post. Pinch the string at the 12th fret and tug a little on the string rolling it as you pull. Retune and do it again. When it holds tuning well, you're done. Repeat on the other five strings.
** Always tune up to your note. The gear is designed to operate its best that way. Detune a full step and tune up to the note. If you go sharp, detune and do it again.
** If the strings are binding at the nut, use Chap Stick as a slot lubricant. It works, it's cheap and readily available and if it's safe for your lips, it's safe for plastics, woods, metals and finishes.
Posted on 1/7/20 at 8:09 pm to TheFretShack
Fret, those would be the same shape and style as the tuners I have on my MIM Classic 50's Strat? it is a 2009 and is a Fender MIM?
Posted on 1/7/20 at 8:24 pm to LSU alum wannabe
Hey Fret, do you do body work on acoustic guitars? I have a Taylor that was not played for years and not properly humidified. So, it has a crack down the middle behind the bridge. If you don't do this, any recommendations in the area?
Posted on 1/7/20 at 9:14 pm to LSU alum wannabe
On the tuners, if you are searching Google with the keywords I gave you, and you can't draw parallels between what you find online and how they compare to your MIM, post photos of the latter and I'll tell you if they match up.
And on the acoustic structural repairs, yes, I do.
And on the acoustic structural repairs, yes, I do.
This post was edited on 1/7/20 at 9:16 pm
Posted on 1/7/20 at 9:18 pm to TheFretShack
Didn’t you build a bridge for a guitar some hack named Johnny Cash used to play, Fret?
Posted on 1/7/20 at 9:22 pm to hashtag
I can answer this one for Fret. I think.
Fret tell me to shut my arse if I am wrong. But the guitar just needs to be humidified all to hell. In case humidification methods or better in soundhole humidification. There is an older Taylor YouTube video where he goes through this. It makes a crack like you describe virtually disappear. Past that maybe wick in some water thick CA glue at some point in the process.
Fret tell me to shut my arse if I am wrong. But the guitar just needs to be humidified all to hell. In case humidification methods or better in soundhole humidification. There is an older Taylor YouTube video where he goes through this. It makes a crack like you describe virtually disappear. Past that maybe wick in some water thick CA glue at some point in the process.
Posted on 1/7/20 at 9:25 pm to TheFretShack
Fret I may leave well enough alone. I don’t want open holes in the headstock. I can see how I will probably be left with 6 open screw holes going from stock to those allusion fakes as they appear to have only one screw.
ETA but a guy building his own acoustic should probably be able to figure it out.
ETA but a guy building his own acoustic should probably be able to figure it out.
This post was edited on 1/7/20 at 9:26 pm
Posted on 1/8/20 at 2:25 am to LSU alum wannabe
Could you switch places, with one of your other tuners, on a thinner string with less tension?
Or check your local shop to see what kind of parts they have laying around?
You might find what you need. Shops that build partscasters have all kinds of stuff.
Me personally, I wouldn't care about the holes on a Squier, fill them with glue, scrape it flush, and call it good.
Or check your local shop to see what kind of parts they have laying around?
You might find what you need. Shops that build partscasters have all kinds of stuff.
Me personally, I wouldn't care about the holes on a Squier, fill them with glue, scrape it flush, and call it good.
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