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What circular saw and blades should I buy?
Posted on 2/9/21 at 10:57 am
Posted on 2/9/21 at 10:57 am
I'm completely new to woodwork, but I want to start and I think I've decided on a circular saw for my first purchase (other than my sawzall I use all the time). It will handle the jobs I have waiting on me.
I have a new front door which needs about a half inch cut off all 4 sides. I have a workbench and saw horses, just need a saw to trim it and sander to finish before I stain and paint (I've done that letter plenty of times before).
Anyways, which circular saw and blades should I get? And which sander? Don't want to break the bank.
Door is Knotty Alder.
I have a new front door which needs about a half inch cut off all 4 sides. I have a workbench and saw horses, just need a saw to trim it and sander to finish before I stain and paint (I've done that letter plenty of times before).
Anyways, which circular saw and blades should I get? And which sander? Don't want to break the bank.
Door is Knotty Alder.
9
Posted on 2/9/21 at 11:37 am to CatfishJohn
DIablo brand is my only choice for my personal saws. I cannot find fault with them at all. They last well, cut very well, and stay sharp.
DIablo
DIablo
Posted on 2/9/21 at 11:51 am to CatfishJohn
trimming a door is a really long cut. you will need a good straight edge to keep it right.
LINK
or you could use an electric hand planer.
LINK
or you could use an electric hand planer.
Posted on 2/9/21 at 12:01 pm to Hermit Crab
quote:
trimming a door is a really long cut. you will need a good straight edge to keep it right.
Posted on 2/9/21 at 12:02 pm to LSU2001
quote:
DIablo brand is my only choice for my personal saws. I cannot find fault with them at all. They last well, cut very well, and stay sharp.
DIablo
Seems to be consensus on blades.
What about the saw? I've always been a Makita guy, are those good circular saws? And what size and power should I get?
Posted on 2/9/21 at 12:31 pm to CatfishJohn
I’m a Makita guy for cordless. The Milwaukee is a decent choice if on sale.
For a long trim cut of a door that may be dense or laminated you may want to go with the 36v version or corded, if on a budget. most corded saws will be fine. I have a Skilsaw worm drive that is a beast.
For a long trim cut of a door that may be dense or laminated you may want to go with the 36v version or corded, if on a budget. most corded saws will be fine. I have a Skilsaw worm drive that is a beast.
Posted on 2/9/21 at 12:57 pm to Hermit Crab
quote:
you could use an electric hand plane
Personally, I'd look into this. 1/2" can be a little much to take off with a plane, but I think you'll like the finish a lot more. Just be very careful when you get to the corners. I have a few solid core doors I used a plane on that now have a corner taken off
Took me up to 3 doors to realize that I should just meet in the middle.
Posted on 2/9/21 at 1:15 pm to Hermit Crab
quote:
trimming a door is a really long cut. you will need a good straight edge to keep it right.
Not really. I've trimmed plenty without and perfectly even everytime with a typical sidewinder. Only time I've used a clamp on edge guide is when using a saw with a left-hand blade.
For the OP I would recommend the following based on what I have and used:
Makita 5007F
Hitachi/Metabo HPT C7SB3M
DeWalt DWE575SB
The Hitachi is the best deal going for a $100 saw. Get it and good Diablo blades. The Makita is an excellent saw, definitely the smoothest running of any you could buy but not abuse tolerant. The DeWalt cuts well and has a better base design, doesn't get hung up on odd ripping jobs. Pulls way more than 15 amps, great for burying the blade but can trip a breaker.
Posted on 2/9/21 at 1:39 pm to Clames
You da man. Thank you!
So they're all about same price - which would you buy? I am leaning Makita. It won't get a ton of abuse, I'm a novice doing occasional and minor work. "Smooth" sounds like something I'd like
So they're all about same price - which would you buy? I am leaning Makita. It won't get a ton of abuse, I'm a novice doing occasional and minor work. "Smooth" sounds like something I'd like
This post was edited on 2/9/21 at 1:46 pm
Posted on 2/9/21 at 1:52 pm to CatfishJohn
Since it is a door, I would get a minimum of a 60 tooth blade. The link to the Diablo blade is a 24 tooth and that will result in some splintering. When you buy a saw it will likely come with a framing blade (lower tooth count). You can get by with it with some extra sanding. Blades are not too terribly expensive so if you can afford it, get a higher tooth count blade.
Posted on 2/9/21 at 1:55 pm to captainahab
quote:
Since it is a door, I would get a minimum of a 60 tooth blade. The link to the Diablo blade is a 24 tooth and that will result in some splintering. When you buy a saw it will likely come with a framing blade (lower tooth count). You can get by with it with some extra sanding. Blades are not too terribly expensive so if you can afford it, get a higher tooth count blade.
Thanks! I'll get a high tooth count diablo!
Any recommendation on a sander?
Posted on 2/9/21 at 2:08 pm to CatfishJohn
quote:
Any recommendation on a sander?
Before you buy anything, I would make a decision on a brand and stick with it when possible. I have a corded Bosch sander but am working my way through my cordless tools and have chosen Dewalt as my brand of choice (but that is just me - I dont make a living using tools). Drill, Impact Driver, Sander, etc. from the same manufacturer is the best route as many times, you can get the tool only (no battery). If not you have spare batteries that you can keep charged.
Posted on 2/9/21 at 2:10 pm to captainahab
I'm a Makita guy. A couple drills, recip. saw, etc.
So I'll do that! Thanks
So I'll do that! Thanks
Posted on 2/9/21 at 2:21 pm to CatfishJohn
I say you should get a track saw, not a circular saw. More $$, but much better for these kinds of cuts.
Posted on 2/9/21 at 3:02 pm to ChEgrad
I think a circular would have more uses in other projects though, right? Next project is building my wife a bread box and then a box garden.
Posted on 2/9/21 at 3:10 pm to Hermit Crab
quote:
you will need a good straight edge to keep it right.
Gonna spend a lot more on the straight edge than the blade. I mean, you SHOULD plan on spending a good bit on a quality straight edge long enough for a door. Then, my thought would be what else are you going to use it for.
Posted on 2/9/21 at 3:29 pm to Boudreaux35
(no message)
This post was edited on 10/17/21 at 10:32 pm
Posted on 2/9/21 at 3:54 pm to Hermit Crab
quote:
trimming a door is a really long cut. you will need a good straight edge to keep it right.
Any decent saw guide will get this done.
Posted on 2/9/21 at 4:52 pm to CatfishJohn
For what it's worth my dad gave me his 25+ year old Skillsaw as a house warming present and it's been great. Granted it's not cordless.
As far as blades, I haven't had an issue with the Craftsman blades available at big box stores, and those are nearly half the price of those Diablo blades. I believe they came in a 2-pack for around $25. Used a Craftsman 60-tooth on my 8/4 black walnut dining room table.
ETA: it's a 7 1/4 inch saw.
As far as blades, I haven't had an issue with the Craftsman blades available at big box stores, and those are nearly half the price of those Diablo blades. I believe they came in a 2-pack for around $25. Used a Craftsman 60-tooth on my 8/4 black walnut dining room table.
ETA: it's a 7 1/4 inch saw.
This post was edited on 2/9/21 at 4:54 pm
Posted on 2/9/21 at 5:32 pm to CatfishJohn
And after reading all these posts offering advice I see nobody has even mentioned this.
When you go to cut across the doors top and bottom edges, since you said you're looking to remove 1/2 in. from all four sides, it would be very prudent to scribe your cut line on the top and bottom edges and then take a utility knife and use a straight edge clamped to the door to cut along that line to break the surface of the end grain.
That way when you cut those two edges you will be much less likely to splinter the face of the wood as the blade makes the cut.
ETA: Forgot to mention, when cutting, bring the edge of the sawblade right up to the line on the waste side and the cut you made with the utility knife will prevent any chipping. If it starts to chip out, you've crossed the line and need to readjust your cut to stay on the waste side.
When you go to cut across the doors top and bottom edges, since you said you're looking to remove 1/2 in. from all four sides, it would be very prudent to scribe your cut line on the top and bottom edges and then take a utility knife and use a straight edge clamped to the door to cut along that line to break the surface of the end grain.
That way when you cut those two edges you will be much less likely to splinter the face of the wood as the blade makes the cut.
ETA: Forgot to mention, when cutting, bring the edge of the sawblade right up to the line on the waste side and the cut you made with the utility knife will prevent any chipping. If it starts to chip out, you've crossed the line and need to readjust your cut to stay on the waste side.
This post was edited on 2/9/21 at 7:13 pm
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